Log splitter cylinder

[Anonymous-0]

Have to replace the cylinder on the log splitter have a 4.5x24 with a 1.75 rod. The rod is bent and will cost more to fix then a new cylinder. My question is how much is it going to affect the pressure on splitting if I go with a 4 in bore? Anyone have a guess. Not looking forward to loosing pressure.

 

[Zachary Hoyt]

My quick calculations show a 20% approximate loss of surface area and thus of splitting power. Power is PSI x surface area in square inches. Have you looked at surpluscenter.com for a new cylinder? They often have the best prices I can find on that kind of stuff.
Zach

 

[Eric in IL]

Yep- my quick calc said 21% loss in splitting force.

 

[Russ from MN]

You would have about 21% reduction in force. How much pressure does your pump put out? If you have at least 1800 lbs. you should be fine, that would still have over 11 tons of force. I used a 3.5 diameter cylinder on ours to speed up the cycle time, as we use it on the 3 point of our tractor. The tractor puts out 2500 psi but only about 12 gpm, and that's at full throttle. The lines are small so there is no use running it over about 1/2 speed, and it works just great like that. My wife runs the hydraulic controls and I handle the wood. 3.5 dia. X 2500psi = almost 12 tons, and that splits anything we have.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Surplus center is where I've been looking. I don't know what the pump is putting out but the splitter is supposedly a 28 ton splitter and all I split is hard wood.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Dont forget to fix what bent the rod,a combination of loose gibbs and tight pin hole.

 

[Russ from MN]

I can't imagine needing 28 tons to split wood. I build ours specifically to split pi$$ Elm, that is a very hard wood to split!

 

[D beatty]

Many years ago my dad and uncle built a splitter to split pizz elm. They rebuilt a 80,000 lb.ram (came out of steel mills) with about 24" travel and had a 3" rod coming out of it. They built 3 wedges for it before the got what they wanted. It was a funny looking wedge. It went into the wood 3" and then it opened into a wide V whiched worked great. Today I have a 35 ton and it splits oak knots that my nephews 28 ton has problems with splitting.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Good point. I split a lot of elm that's why I don't want to be under powered. Thanks for posting everyone.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks for that information to I know the wedge that slides on the I-beam was loose and moved side to side about a quarter of an inch I'm not sure if that's what caused it to bend when it hit the log. Thanks for all the help guys

 

[Chip812]

And the silver lining is that what you give up in power, you gain in speed...

 

[Anonymous-0]

If yer gonna replace it, tighten up the slop, and try surpluscenter.com, for the cyl. For the same reasons that others have said, use the original diameter...

 

[greygoat]

I"ve probably built 25 Wood Splitters in the last
25 years. I would NEVER consider less than a 2
inch diameter Rod, otherwise, you are just asking
for trouble. 2-1/2 diameter is better. I believe
that most farm supply stores, TSC, etc. are
misleading about the tonnage of the splitters that
they are selling..DON"T believe the claims ! DON"T
believe the dumb pimple faced kid who works there!
If you look up the manufacturers specs of some of the farm store, or big box store splitters, you"ll
find that they don"t match up to the "Fake"
tonnage ratings.
My "Home made splitter, made in a machine shop,
has a 5 inch bore cylinder, with 3/8 inch wall. a
3-1/2 inch piston rod diameter, 3/4 diameter,
3000 psi rated hose, so as not to restrict flow. 3/4 inlet and outlet fittings, NO pipe thread
fittings,(only ORB)A tapered pipe thread in a
piece of hydraulic equipment acts as a wedge,and
can cause the female fitting to split, and blow
off, under high pressure.. The directional valve
has 1 inch inlet and outlet, and 3/4 work ports.The pump is a Vickers V20, rated at 12 GPM
at 2400 RPM, and 2500 PSI. I have both suction
and return line filtration. The return filter
has 1-1/4 ports so that the filter does not
restrict flow.I use a 10 micron element for the
return element, and 25 micron on the suction
element,(to ensure smooth pump feed in cold
weather). My power is a 2 cylinder Wisconsin
engine, 14 HP at 2400 RPM, with electric start.

 

[JOB]

Greygoat, do you have the pump direct coupled to the engine? Are you running the engine at 2400 RPM?

I have the same pump but have been running it at 1800 RPM direct coupled to a VE4 that I am replacing with a VH4. Looking for a few ideas.

 

[onefarmer]

I bent the rod on my splitter and replaced it with the one in my link. It hasn't bent yet and has plenty of power. I use a 10hp diesel engine and a splitter pump for my hyd power unit.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic Cylinders/Double Acting Hydraulic Cylinders/4X24X2 DA HYD CYL W400240 9 7944 24.axd