Looking for older 50hp +/-

Jimogden1984

New User
Hello. This is my first post. I'm buying 10 acres (wish it was more but it's a start) and finally following my dream of moving my kids from small town to the country so they can grow up like i did. We're not planning anything too big and crazy but looking to be fairly self sufficient. Have a few cows, pigs, chickens, and a decent sized garden. We have 6 kids and looking to minimize the grocery bill. I've been looking at tractors and could use some more experienced suggestions. Would like something a little older so it's easier to work on, and easier on my wallet. Big enough to run a brush hog, tiller, post hole digger, etc... but small enough to get around trees as about half of my soon to be land is about half pasture and half wooded. I've been thinking something Ford 4000 sized or similar. Between 40-50hp seems like it would be about right. I'd definitely rather have a few too many than not enough. And of course a front end loader would be nice to have

I grew up on a dairy farm, no expert by any means but not a stranger to tractors and equipment. I have found plenty that are in the ballpark of 50hp and the right size for 5' implements or that are bigger and have a loader. Having a terrible time condone one that has all 3.
 
Any Massy Ferguson 135 to 188. Solid and easy to operate. (I am an IH guy, but not for that size. Jim
 
An Allis Chalmers D-17 is rated at 63 HP, and is an all around good
tractor for most everything your after. Wide front end is best for
loader, and brush hogging.
 
Ford 3000 series. Just shy of 50 hp. Easy
to get parts for. Easy to work on. I have a
1975 3500. Have been able to find
everything I've needed. Comes in gas or
diesel. Gas is a little weaker and a little
thirstier with the Holley carb. Zenith carb
is much better. Mine pulls a 6 ft mower no
problem. Buddy has a 2000 and drags a 5 ft
through stuff I wouldn't go through with 10
more hp than him.
 
Welcome.
I too grew up on a dairy.
We milked about 60 cows.
We pasteurized, bottled and delivered milk.
I grew up twisting wrenches, running tractors, balers, combines,
cultivators, loaders and spreading organic fertilizer.


I recently learned terramite went out of business, so parts will
be a challenge to find..

If you want my opinion on a 50 hp tractor I recommend buying
something you can get parts for.

If you can't twist wrenches, then buy a tractor that you have
local dealer support..

I worked on tractors all my life.

My 42 year old son can build computers, I can't. He is clueless
how to replace points, condenser and time an engine..

I know how to work on gassers. Clueless how to fix a diesel.

I would recommend you buy a tractor you have experience
repairing.

If a loader is a requirement, I would recommend looking for
newer tractors with a wide front end and good hydraulics..

Look for a good 3 pt. tractor.
Look at the condition of the tires.
New tires and tubes cost a lot.
Old tractors may have rusty gas tanks, rusty rims,
leaking oil, especially hydraulic hoses.

Good luck finding a tractor.

Let us know what you buy..
 
Buy 2 tractors. A Farmall Cub or super
A for the garden and a Ford 600-800-900
for everything else. Of course if you
can stomach a payment...... Can't beat
a brand new Massey!
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I hated the thought of buying a brand new tractor..... But we don't have a car payment so we could swing it easy. It's been more handy than I thought
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Finding something older and in the budget with a loader will take a lot of shopping to find something that is not used up.

Loaders are hard on smaller tractors, tend to beat the front suspension down.

Also look for damaged mounts.If the loader is run loose the mount bolt holes will be damaged, difficult to repair.

Might be easier to find one without a loader that has seen light use, then find a loader to fit.

Be sure it has sturdy front suspension and power steering!
 
I suggest you look at tractors that had a longer build
period, and sold many thousands of tractors of that
model. Even though the original manufacturer may not
offer some parts for older tractors. Many after market
companies do make parts for these tractors. Things
like fenders, seats etc. my recommendation would be
a 165 MF diesel or a IH 584 diesel. These tractors
were very popular during the late 70s early 80s. right
in the 50hp range. Independent pto, 3pth, and can
handle a loader. Both of these tractors were offered in
the next idoration almost the same with different tin
ware. Example the CaseIH 585 is the same basic
tractor as the IH 585. The CaseIH 585 was offered
with 4wd and shuttle shift , really nice for loader work
 
In my opinion....Ford 4000 3 cylinder
diesel or a MF 165 diesel...both good solid
tractors, many were loader equipped easy
to operate and maintain, easy on fuel and a
good tractor for your kids to learn how to
operate later. JD 1120 1640 or any similar
3 cylinder Deere is also a good choice but
a bit more money. It comes down to the
overall condition and price to determine
your best buy....enjoy shopping!

Ben
 
50 hp sounds like a lot of tractor for 10 acres though others have not
said that. I have a Kubota L3010 at work with a quick attach loader and
a 6ft Land Pride finish mower. It's HST drive and I love. I bet that or
something similar would be perfect for you.
Dave
 
Ford 4600, 5600 Row crop models only if they have a loader. Kubota tractors in the 50 hp range are good also.
Shuttle tranny's are great with a loader.
 
Some snow and hills, you may want to
consider MFD as well. Better traction and
better braking. One thing thats not been
mentioned is safety. Cant put a price on
keeping you and the family safe. Later
models will have much better safety
features on them, as well as better
written manuals for you guys to study and
learn.
 
As others have mentioned: live PTO, live hydraulics, three point hitch, and power steering should be on your requirements list. Few 1960s loaders are easy to remove and reinstall, but that is a very handy feature to have if you work in close quarters or have kids driving the tractor. That is something you could change later when you have more cash. Tires are expensive, figure $1,500 or more for replacement tires if a tractor has poor tires.

Summer is the best time to buy loader tractors, used tire chains and heat housers, as prices rise towards winter.

Diesel engine is nice to have as they are fuel efficient and low maintenance. Gasoline engine will start much easier without needing a block heater, will cost one or two thousand $$$$ less, and at only 50 hours or less per year won't cost much extra for fuel.
 
I'm a Kubota guy so if you can swing the price that would be my recommendation with 4 wheel drive.
Older Ford or Massey would be good but you may want to chain it up in the winter with the two wheel
drive. One with power steering and live power.
 

I am with GP other than i would skip a cub are the A and get a farmall 100,130,140 with the cultivators. A 140 will also run 5ft equipment and a 2 bottom plow along with other implements for the garden.

I would skip pre 64 fords and go straight for a Ford 3 cylinder 3000 are newer bigger with all the goody's. Power steering, live PTO and a 8 speed transmission you are cooking with gas. The Bad most all will need a clutch, power steering leaks repaired and some hydraulic work BTDT... A good solid engine and hydraulics are a must the rest can be worked around. If you got to have one rotor Cultivator ready tho rotor cultivators are not at the top of my list of thinks to own.

Loader, suck it up and get a dedicated loader tractor made for a loader that's not worn out are needs a complete rebuild. Loader tractor repairs grow to be complete rebuilds : ( Then you have to have a big heart to put the loader back on it...
 
A new 5045E John Deere 45 hp tractor runs around
$19,000. Bought mine a year ago and it has over 80 hrs.
And hasnt regenerated yet. No DEF - just dont let it idle
at low rpms.
 
I think your choice of a Ford
4000 3cyl is great. I have its
big brother the 5000 diesel with
a quick attached loader. If you
are going to have a loader quick
attach is the way to go although
that will be hard to find for a
4000 especially a 4000 with one
already on it. I was very lucky
to find my 5000 with a quick
attached loader already on it.
Some have brought up a Ford 3000
but the front axle is very light
for a loader in my opinion. Yes
there are lots of 3000s with
loaders but the front axle is no
where as robust as the 4000. I
also have a 1920 New Holland
with a loader. It is a small
tractor but extremely handy.
 
X2 on Kubota.
Best dealer support in Terre Haute.
And the only dealer that has been in business
since 1967.

I think dealer support is the most important thing to
consider..

They also sell a lot of Big Case IH equipment,
 
Not recommending any tractor but just
noting that the fewer electronics, the
happier your life will be. Also check the
hydraulics, do they move incrementaly or do
they require work to keep them from free
floating.
 
With 6 kids wouldnt hand tools be more practical? After 20
years I finally bought a snowblower. One child is in college
and the other is finishing high school. They didnt like
shoveling snow but it taught them to grind it out to the end.
Something not really taught in life anymore.

Vito
 
Most of those Fergie's ,fords and the lighter tractors like that didn't have the front axles to carry a loader let alone the weight you would put in the bucket. Spindles were not that heavy nor the axles. And most of them were just the block bolted to the front end and the bell housing. Some of the loaders would fasten to the rear axles and on the front end supporting the loader at each end of the tractor instead of the middle which would strengthen the issue immensely. A 74 series IH with a 2050series loader would mount at the rear axle and on the front end so it would also have a heavier front axle and spindle better suited for a loader. They are a bit heavier tractor and in the 35-60 horse range with Live PTO ,hydraulics and, steering. Maybe not the best hydraulics volume wise but pressure wise was right in with the best of them at 2500PSI There were some options for more hydraulics for them that would put them right in the ball park. Another option that you would find good is the 3020 or 2030 has good hydraulics power steering and live PTO. Will not turn or be as nimble as the IH but a good tractor just the same. If you got into the 4000 ford it would improve the front axle and spindles a long ways over the 801and 861 models that are going to be suggested for your use. Money is going to be comparable with the model in usefulness. Along with the improvements.
 
I agree with Dave BN; 50 hp is a lot of tractor for 10 acres. Not a huge deal, but 15 less hp might come cheaper. IMHO, at that size for that amount of land, either gas or diesel would work fine. And a dedicated loader machine is definitely the way to go. Parts support for anything older will be tough, so don t be surprised if you have to source things through salvage yards. Also concur with previous comments on live PTO, power steering, hydraulics, etc. Good luck!
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:06 07/10/22) With 6 kids wouldnt hand tools be more practical? After 20
years I finally bought a snowblower. One child is in college
and the other is finishing high school. They didnt like
shoveling snow but it taught them to grind it out to the end.
Something not really taught in life anymore.

Vito

They all have chores. I'm but none of them have had a chance to experience real chores. Right now they all have 1 room in the house they're responsible to keep clean. We have a garden but it's a small one.
 
I am of a different idea. You can buy a 970 case or
1070. For less than half the money of a 50 ho
tractor. Has more weight for hills and moving snow.
Get a good lawn mower(sheep,goat) and use a
bigger tractor for all the work. If you need
something for in the garden smaller go down to 12-
25 hp just for that and mowing lawn, and using it for
what a good quad can do. You may think a bigger
tractor is to big but it is not as bad as you think.
Makes a lot more sense to me to put a loader on
such and not break it than on a little tractor and end
up not being Able to lift when you want because
thrust tree is to big.
 



You didn't say if you were looking at the older 63/64 4 cylinder 4000's or 65/up 3 cylinder models, they are nothing alike.
A comparative 3 cylinder model to the older 4 cylinder 4000 would be a 3000 model but staying with that smaller size I'd much rather have a 4000SU with it's wet disc brakes and independent pto.
You can have a loader on any of them but none of them are great loader tractors due to the lighter sweep back axles they use
On a personal note I won't own a loader that isn't quick attach, if I'm not using the loader I don't want it on the tractor

5 ft equipment is a bit small for the 3 cylinder 4000 all purpose model
For tilling your garden the 8 spd trans on the 3 cylinder model is much better than the older 5 spd

I've owned my 3 cylinder model 4000 for over 30 years and my 4000SU for 17 years, LOVE these tractors, I also have some of the larger 65/up 4 cylinder models but they are bigger than you really need.
That said if starting over I'd go with the 4600 models for the paper air filter over the old oil bath unit and the slightly larger hydraulic pump with external filter
Also stick with a diesel on the 3 cylinder models, gas may be easier to start in cold weather but that's the only time it's better than the diesel model

There's other good brands to chose from as well but I grew up on Fords
 
Oliver 1365 or David Brown 990 both a little over 50 HP,both are good loader tractors usually can be bought fairly reasonable,both are easy to find pats for if needed,both are easy on fuel for their size.
 
How old is older?

I would stay away from the 9N, 8N or 2N. I would also stay away from the Hs & Ms. I bought a 350 20+ years ago and its been a great little
tractor. An independent PTO and hydraulics make life much easier.
 
MF65 gas, small enough to be agile, big enough to really do some work. easy to work on, parts available. Just be sure to buy one with good
brakes because that is a difficult repair. A very comfortable tractor to drive. Live PTO, strong lift. Should be able to buy one for approx.
$3000.
 


2X what cjunreau posted. Everybody that doesn't want a compact diesel is looking for one around 50HP. If you broaden your search a little up to 75-90 HP you can be looking at good tractors with few other lookers.
 
I did the same thing as you are about to do, move back to the country to raise my kids. Not sure of you budget but you may want more than one tractor, especially with 6 kids. What I did was first
bought a Ford 8N. It did what I needed it too but it was too small for some jobs and no live power. I then bought a Bobcat skid steer with a bucket, forks and PHD. Later I added a backhoe and many
other attachments. Then I bought a JD 4700 (48 HP) hydro with FEL and 7 foot dozer blade. I use a 7 foot finish mower that it plays with and the hydro makes it easy to maneuver. It will go
backwards as fast as forward.

My recommendation, If you have the money, is to buy a compact Hydro tractor that has a dealer near you. My JD has been trouble free for over 20 years. So no need to work on it other than the
normal scheduled servicing.
 
I think a Ford 4000 for ten acres really to much tractor. be much better of with a Ford 2000 , still got speed and maneuvering .

10 acres is a compact tractor category.
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:54 07/10/22) I think a Ford 4000 for ten acres really to much tractor. be much better of with a Ford 2000 , still got speed and maneuvering .

10 acres is a compact tractor category.

I agree 50hp is more than i need, my thought was to have a little more than i need. I just figure it would be less wear and tear, and cheaper to tear up an implement than to need the extra power a few times and tear up a tractor by asking too much of it.

I am here to learn from experience though. If I'm wrong please do teach me a better way. I haven't checked out the 2000 much. What makes it better to fulfill my needs?
 
You have an idea what you want to do !

Make a list of must have Ford 2000 attachments ? Live power , power steering ,rop, put the cost is associated total it up , or am I
physically able to hook the implements to tractor be myself . Can my wife or siblings now and in the future able to operate .



Make a list of Ford 4000

Massey Ferguson

John Deere

Case

Make a list of like to have . , cab , rear wheel adjustment. , seat comfortable ,accessible on and off .



Personally the maneuver of the 4000 on ten acre small fields is some once you have it your going have to mange the heavy attachment hook
u and take off , smaller field narrow you will notice the difference, Baling hay with baler the 4000 is better tractor



I dont know what your plans are so these are just suggestions

End of the day make sure you choose a tractor ,that the family can operate is a key item on the must have list or else your the only one in the
field ,everybody else will be in the house on video games with lemonade.

Good luck

Ask more questions they dont cost ,but save money and pleasure with your implements
 
(reply to post at 17:24:08 07/10/22)
I do like that idea. Putting down a list of wants/needs and costs on paper is something i haven't done. How much hp is needed for things such as a tiller or post hole digger... or other things common for a small farm i may not have thought of yet.
 
(reply to post at 17:24:08 07/10/22)
I do like that idea. Putting down a list of wants/needs and costs on paper is something i haven't done. How much hp is needed for things such as a tiller or post hole digger... or other things common for a small farm i may not have thought of yet.
 
Unless your plans include expanding, 50 hp is more than you need for 10 acres. If not I would consider a small compact. This is my most recent addition Swiss Army Knife. It is a 2016 w/600 hrs and I got everything pictured for $17,000. With TLB the attachments included: quick attach forks and 5' front snow plow, 3 point hitch, 5' back blade, 6' lawn aerator, Cyclone Rake leaf machine, 5' belly mower and spare set of R4 loaded(rim guard) tires and wheels.
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(quoted from post at 17:55:54 07/10/22) I think a Ford 4000 for ten acres really to much tractor. be much better of with a Ford 2000 , still got speed and maneuvering .

10 acres is a compact tractor category.

I don t completely agree with the 2000 suggestion, 2000 and 3000 are exact same size chassis, gas models have same size engine, 3000 diesel engine is 17 ci bigger, 3000 has one size larger tires
Regular 4000 Is a good big larger due to heavy front axle, much larger tires and raised sheet metal
The 4000SU model I recommended is a compact model like the 2/3000 being same short height, width and only 2 inches longer
The main advantage of the SU is it heavy duty planetary rear axle that adds weight to the rear for better traction and counter balance for loader use, plus its superior inboard wet disc brakes
Ford dropped the light weight axle and subpar drum brakes when they replaced the 3610 model with the 3910 that had the 4000 style axle

Standard 4000 AP

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4000SU

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I ve done several jobs were the SU s smaller size worked better than the full size 4000, but I ve never been on any size tractor that I wished had less pto hp
 
Even a 20 horse power tractor is plenty for a post hole digger. The tiller is where you will get into problems as any gear drive will be too fast for the tiller even with like the 4000 Ford with 8 speed transmiddion. The only tractors in the years talking about will not handle a tiller, only the ford SOS transmission will have a slow enough speed and those transmissiond were for 99% of people junk when new. So hydrostatic only option and they are not good for heavy drawbar work. The 801 (860 0r 861) tractors or the early 4000 equivilent would be good for anything except the tiller. Those modeld would have the 5 speed transmission and 2 stage live pto . You get into the blue series 4000 and they are way to complicated to mess with. I had 2 of the gas with 8 speed and I could not work on them but I did work on the 2N, 9n, Naa and the Ferguson TO30 and the 2 cylinder Deeres. And I hated that independant PTO on the 4000 tractors, I think the 2 stage clutch was way better, you did not have to have 3 hands to operate them. Wish mine had been the earlier version. Diesel was not even a consideration when the 2 4000 and a 5000 were bought.
 
Keep in mind that no tractor under a 100 HP has been made in the US in over 40 years no matter the color. The foreign models have much less parts support and availability. If you plow or chisel plow a garden and work it dwon with a disc and drag you don't need a tiller for weeding on a tractor. Solves the speed problem for tillage. Next there is no replacement like weight and power for pushing snow or dirt. I don't care what anybody says. The older simpler tractors will be easier on your repair cost bill than those new fancy electrified models with all the dodadas.
 
Both excellent tractors. Get one in fairly decent shape, take care of it, and it will be running 100 years from now.
 
I bought a Deere 2150 about a year ago, am very happy with it. Cold weather starting is no problem, it pulls a 6 foot
reverse rotation 3 point tiller with no problem, excellent on grader blade and post hole digger. Parts support from
the local Deere dealer is good. Some parts for older tractors (originally made in Germany) are made in Turkey. This
is a slightly upgraded 2040. Good ones are hard to find. Large people (250 lbs +) may find mounting and dismounting a little difficult.
 

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