Massey Ferguson 265 Split

Axtell

Member
Location
RDU, NC
I will be splitting the 265 between the transmission and the center housing to inspect/replace the auxiliary pump and repair a pipe connection coming out of the left side PTO inspection cover. This 265 does not have IPTO or Multi-Power. Will there still be a pipe connection between the transmission and center housing, say for that option? This is my first split for this tractor and just trying to prepare a bit.
 
(quoted from post at 11:53:46 12/12/23) I don't think so, but you can find out after the three point lift cover is off as it WILL need removed for side cover/line access anyway.

Thanks. I had seen a video of someone doing a 285 with IPTO and he sorta "semi-split' the tractor to reach the pipe from the narrow split opening before separating it entirely. Was a little wary on that.
 
Well I hope you come back and explain what that pipe is and maybe where it goes. Without Multipower I'm wondering what line could there be that can't be dealt with while the lift cover is off and before the transmission split.
 
You should not have to remove the shift cover, IF the lift cover is off you should be able to get at the line. It MIGHT just be an oil cooler line that returns from the cooler to the PTO input retainer housing if tractor does not have MP or IPTO.
 
You should not have to remove the shift cover, IF the lift cover is off you should be able to get at the line. It MIGHT just be an oil cooler line that returns from the cooler to the PTO input retainer housing if tractor does not have MP or IPTO.
Could his 265 have the aux hydraulic pump and lines for a remote set up?
 
Well I hope you come back and explain what that pipe is and maybe where it goes. Without Multipower I'm wondering what line could there be that can't be dealt with while the lift cover is off and before the transmission split.
I hope I will. It took me a month to get back here and provide the last update.
 
You should not have to remove the shift cover, IF the lift cover is off you should be able to get at the line. It MIGHT just be an oil cooler line that returns from the cooler to the PTO input retainer housing if tractor does not have MP or IPTO.
I can barely reach the banjo bolt holding the mystery line. I can feel the line itself go up and curve toward the transmission case. I cannot actually tell how far it goes but I am assuming it goes into the transmission case. I can somewhat get a crows foot on it but it’s too awkward to get anything behind it to break it loose. Any tips will be most appreciated to keep my from having to do that.
 
That doesn't explain the need to remove the shift cover.
I can barely reach the banjo bolt holding the mystery line. I can feel the line itself go up and curve toward the transmission case. I cannot actually tell how far it goes but I am assuming it goes into the transmission case. I can somewhat get a crows foot on it but it’s too awkward to get anything behind it to break it loose. Any tips will be most appreciated to keep my from having to do that.
 
If the line to front is straight like the older 100 series were a right angle wrench should work. The banjo bolt will probably need the shift tower cover removed for line access.
 
I present the mystery pipe/line. As far as removing the shift cover, it was not as straight forward as the two manuals I have. I opted for the lesser involved steps, but do not feel I did it right. It's going to be a pain getting that shift cover back on as I was barely able to get the cover from underneath the console. I will have to review the steps again for both manuals when my head is clearer. I can see where whoever was in there last squashed that line when putting it on maybe when the tightened the center and transmission halves back together. I think there may be a small crack in the hose where it is smashed by evidence of an oil drop hanging onto it.
 

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To get the shift cover back in place easier I removed the lower support bolts that thread into rear of upper engine block, then used an overhead chain fall to lift the steering wheel/dash higher for more room. I didn't remove the hood, but most of the bolts to allow it to move more as needed.
 
To get the shift cover back in place easier I removed the lower support bolts that thread into rear of upper engine block, then used an overhead chain fall to lift the steering wheel/dash higher for more room. I didn't remove the hood, but most of the bolts to allow it to move more as needed.
Thanks.
Looking at screenshot 141102.. above, I performed steps 1 - ...
a - Check
b - Check
c - Multi-Power not equipped
d - Not Applicable
e - Missed this step
f - Check.
g - Used Engine lift to lift and hold
h - Check

I may have been hampered by the fuel and radiator caps. The procedure does mention to be wary of it. When I revisit, I will remove them.

When you stated "I removed the lower support bolts that thread into rear of upper engine block," is that a different location from step f?

I also thought about removing the shifters themselves to help with removing the cover but could not figure out how to tap the pins out as they seem to tap from the inside to remove and there is no room between the shifters to get a punch in there. Taping from the other direction there is a knurl on the end of the pin, and it just didn't seem "right" to tap on that end, not to mention not enough clearance between the two shifters to fully knock out the pins. I know. I am over thinking that part. I got the shifter cover out anyway. Just need to work on raising the hood up more.
 

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