MF 1455 PTO Removal

[wespx007]

Hi I'm new to this forum, thanks for letting me join. I just picked up a MF1455, and needed to replace the rear pto seal. Once removed, it was apparent the bearing was shot and needs replacing. My problem is getting the pto shaft out of the tractor so I can replace the bearing.

I removed the seal, removed the snap ring, and now it won't come out. Diagram is attached. #14 is the seal, #15 the snap ring and #3 is the bearing. I was hoping the pto shaft would come out (with some work) and that I wouldn't have to mess with the gears. The shaft will only pull out about half an inch. Is there something I m missing? By the manual diagram it looks like it should pull out, the shaft and 2nd bearing (#11). Any help would be appreciated.

I do have the detailed service manual and could post pictures of disassembly if that helps someone. Much appreciated!!

This post was edited by wespx007 on 12/01/2023 at 11:38 am.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Your detailed service manual SHOULD describe the steps involved in removing the shaft. By the looks of the parts diagrams, you're going to need to remove
the three point lift housing and take something apart in there before the shaft will come out. If you're really tricky, you may be able to remove the bearing
(or what's left of it) but I doubt the shaft will come out. Too many things involved on the inside.

 

[wespx007]

(quoted from post at 13:04:43 12/01/23) Your detailed service manual SHOULD describe the steps involved in removing the shaft. By the looks of the parts diagrams, you're going to need to remove
the three point lift housing and take something apart in there before the shaft will come out. If you're really tricky, you may be able to remove the bearing
(or what's left of it) but I doubt the shaft will come out. Too many things involved on the inside.

I attached the service manual pages. I was hoping someone had advice for removing the pto from the rear to avoid removing more than I want. Probably not going to find that, but thought I would try before diving in.

 

[stevieb49829]

It looks like the outside race on your bearing is cracked, or broken. Most outside races are not an interference fit and should come out fairly easily. If you can pick the pieces out, then all you have to figure out is the puller it will take to pull the inside race off the shaft (that IS a press fit). But that also brings into question: are there any chunks of really sharp, and hard bearing steel still inside the case somewhere? Account for all the balls also. steve

 

[stevieb49829]

If you try to short cut it and get the shaft out of the gear set, you will NOT be able to put it back together without all the other steps to disassemble it. steve

 

[wespx007]

(quoted from post at 23:38:50 12/01/23) If you try to short cut it and get the shaft out of the gear set, you will NOT be able to put it back together without all the other steps to disassemble it. steve

Thanks for the reply, Steve. I think I knew my answer and this confirms it. Better to take everything apart and check the housing really well while I m in there (for pieces, etc.). I was only expecting to replace the seal when I bought it, but that is the risk of buying used with some hours.

Thanks!
Tony

 

[used red MN]

Stevie, on my initial look I made the same determination. After looking closer I believe that what appears to be cracking is just an over abundance of sealer for the seal. The OP has no rebuttal one way or the other, the bearing obviously needs replaced. My first thought was that the damage bearing spun the outer race an scored the inside of the bore and that was adding to his difficulty to remove the shaft. That really did not correspond with his comment that it moved a half inch then stopped.

Edit: Ha ha, now take a third look, it is actually the strange notching in the ID of the snap ring that is gives it the ..cracked look..

This post was edited by used red MN on 12/02/2023 at 11:35 am.

 

[wespx007]

(quoted from post at 12:29:46 12/02/23) Stevie, on my initial look I made the same determination. After looking closer I believe that what appears to be cracking is just an over abundance of sealer for the seal. The OP has no rebuttal one way or the other, the bearing obviously needs replaced. My first thought was that the damage bearing spun the outer race an scored the inside of the bore and that was adding to his difficulty to remove the shaft. That really did not correspond with his comment that it moved a half inch then stopped.

Edit: Ha ha, now take a third look, it is actually the strange notching in the ID of the snap ring that is gives it the ..cracked look..

This post was edited by used red MN on 12/02/2023 at 11:35 am.

I did make sure to remove the snap ring! Ha

 

[stevieb49829]

Red, that's exactly the things I saw and resorted my diagnosis. However, if you look really close at the race just left of the end of the snap ring, is that a crack in the outside race? I think he's doing the right thing by tearing it down and looking for shards inside the case. Do it right the first time, eh? steve

 

[stevieb49829]

Good decision, Tony. You might want to think about why that bearing failed in the first place, too. Look at the balls to see if they are pitted from a rusty bearing (water intrusion), or galled like they ran out of lube. That high up in the case, and a low oil level would run THAT bearing out of lube first. It may have just been a defect in bearing quality if the balls look nice and smooth. Have fun, and let us know when you've got it fixed. steve

 

[wespx007]

Thanks, Steve. I ll keep you updated. My guess is the bearing didn t get enough lube but I ll explore. Maybe even post progress pictures. We will see. Thanks.

Tony

 

[wespx007]

Anything additional you suggest I inspect or work on now that I have the tractor torn down? I ll be lifting the cover off and inspecting inside and replacing the bearing as discussed. Curious if anything additional would be good while I have it exposed. Appreciate any insight!

 

[stevieb49829]

If you are planning on draining hydro fluid, mop out the bottom of the case as best you can and look for spare parts floating around down there. If no drain, get a magnet on a stick and probe thoroughly before you seal it back up. I found four halves of two ball bearings in the bottom of my old 101 Jr. I eventually found and replaced the bearing that was missing some balls. I don't know what it took to cleave two of them in half, but I never found any other damage. steve

 

[wespx007]

Update: removed the hydraulic lift cover, drain d all fluids, cleaned out the bottom and replaced the bearing. More work than I was originally thinking but I’m glad I did it. I found one still ball in the bottom of the housing, and a few small metal pieces. It would go easier now that I’ve done it once (hopefully never again). All the gears appear to be in great shape and the inside of the housing was really clean.

Going to reassemble fuel tank and rest of the tractor tonight and it should be good to go. Thanks!

Tony