MF 200 Dump Cylinder Rebuild Update

[Used-to-be-iowa-dave]

Good advice all. So, I've figured out that I purchased and have been using this machine for the last 20 years without either side dump cylinders having their bearing retaining nuts. The exposed threads of the bearings just stick out the end of the cylinder. The threads are in amazingly good shape, however, whatever protection the retaining nuts may have provided the lip of the cylinders was lost. I was able to use a brass drift punch to push the bearings in far enough to remove the snap ring, but the rod/bearing/gland doesn't want to come out, I'm thinking due to the damage to the cylinder lip. I've got ideas on how to get strong with it, but would like anyone that's been there done that to chime in. Also, the missing nuts seem to be made of unobtainium. Anyone know of a source?

 

[Jim.ME]

Good advice all. So, I've figured out that I purchased and have been using this machine for the last 20 years without either side dump cylinders having their bearing retaining nuts. The exposed threads of the bearings just stick out the end of the cylinder. The threads are in amazingly good shape, however, whatever protection the retaining nuts may have provided the lip of the cylinders was lost. I was able to use a brass drift punch to push the bearings in far enough to remove the snap ring, but the rod/bearing/gland doesn't want to come out, I'm thinking due to the damage to the cylinder lip. I've got ideas on how to get strong with it, but would like anyone that's been there done that to chime in. Also, the missing nuts seem to be made of unobtainium. Anyone know of a source?View attachment 208View attachment 209

A die grinder, or Dremel tool, to grind away the collapsed areas would work to get the gland out. You may have to have a machine shop make the nuts for you.

 

[MKinON]

I would put some heat into the dent in the cylinder and then pry it out to shape using the bearing with some copper or aluminum between the threads and pry tool. A steel wedge driven in might be best. It won't be perfect but from there as said above, a dremel might do the rest. The heat will kill the existing seals, but so what, you're changing them anyway. In for a penny, in for a pound at this point. All the bearing nut does is keep the bearing up against the lock ring (as well as give protection and support to the cylinder end). They probably got totally beat up during removal when the seals were last changed and is why they're missing.

 

[Used-to-be-iowa-dave]

Yep, that was my understanding of what the nut does. Must not be much of an impetus for that bearing to wander up into the cylinder because it wouldn't have to go far to block the port on that end and it hasn't in 20 years. I like the heat/pry/Dremel ideas. I dislike the idea of putting them back together without the nuts, I'll look into having them machined. If too expensive, what the heck...worked well for a long time without them last go around.

 

[Jim.ME]

You see the damage without them that they likely would have prevented. The nuts also hold the gland up against the snap ring, so they don't get bumped out of place and start leaking.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The large dent in your first photo would be my biggest concern. Getting to that one from the inside with a die grinder and not damaging the shaft surface in the process might be a challenge. I would be tempted to apply extreme force before going that route. I've been known to tie a cylinder to a tree and yank it apart with a tractor on occasion.

Once you get it apart you can more accurately assess the damage to the barrel. Lack of the nut would be incidental in my opinion. Even a mediocre machinist could cut a strategically placed snap ring groove into the threads and make custom washer to put behind it. no nut needed.