Have a short list of questions regarding an 885 DB...
It has a loader. There is the number 22 and the word "LOADER" on it with no other I.D. It has a big knob down low on the rear loader mount (right in front of your feet) that evidently unscrews releasing what looks to be a hook or latch for removal. There are two 2" X 3" X 3' long rectangular tubes with bent flat stock welded to both ends that are supposed to be used on the loader either when or while the loader is off or both. The previous owner had no clue. A little guidance on removing this loader and the use of the tubes please?
I thought the tractor had brakes when I test drove it... it does not. Glad nothing was behind be when rolling off the trailer last night. Pedals are hard when like they should work. Where to start to access the brakes for inspection? Are they before or after the drop boxes?
The original alternator has been replaced with a GM, the late 80's, early 90's version with the plastic rear bearing holder that you have to unsolder the field wires to disassemble. I guess it works okay but the volt meter is below 12 volts until the engine speed is over 1400. Is this a common swap? If it is, what needs to happen to get the thing to charge at idle?
Turns out the tractor has the Laycock clutch. Good? Bad? The PTO clutch does not disengage. Have the shop manual info, is there anything noteworthy to look out for with this clutch versus the Borg and Beck style?
What's up with no oil pressure gauge? Whatever warning lights this thing had are MIA. A quick look-see did not reveal a sending unit. The temp gauge doesn't worth either, same question; where'd they stick the sender?
The thermostart is there but I can't tell if it works. I suspect the ignition switch is a replacement. The window of key movement from the "on" position to "crank" is so small I can not hold it in hat window without bumping the starter. How do I test to tell if the thermostart is working or not. Is there an easy way to determine if I have the right switch?
Hope this isn't too much for one post. Thanks!
It has a loader. There is the number 22 and the word "LOADER" on it with no other I.D. It has a big knob down low on the rear loader mount (right in front of your feet) that evidently unscrews releasing what looks to be a hook or latch for removal. There are two 2" X 3" X 3' long rectangular tubes with bent flat stock welded to both ends that are supposed to be used on the loader either when or while the loader is off or both. The previous owner had no clue. A little guidance on removing this loader and the use of the tubes please?
I thought the tractor had brakes when I test drove it... it does not. Glad nothing was behind be when rolling off the trailer last night. Pedals are hard when like they should work. Where to start to access the brakes for inspection? Are they before or after the drop boxes?
The original alternator has been replaced with a GM, the late 80's, early 90's version with the plastic rear bearing holder that you have to unsolder the field wires to disassemble. I guess it works okay but the volt meter is below 12 volts until the engine speed is over 1400. Is this a common swap? If it is, what needs to happen to get the thing to charge at idle?
Turns out the tractor has the Laycock clutch. Good? Bad? The PTO clutch does not disengage. Have the shop manual info, is there anything noteworthy to look out for with this clutch versus the Borg and Beck style?
What's up with no oil pressure gauge? Whatever warning lights this thing had are MIA. A quick look-see did not reveal a sending unit. The temp gauge doesn't worth either, same question; where'd they stick the sender?
The thermostart is there but I can't tell if it works. I suspect the ignition switch is a replacement. The window of key movement from the "on" position to "crank" is so small I can not hold it in hat window without bumping the starter. How do I test to tell if the thermostart is working or not. Is there an easy way to determine if I have the right switch?
Hope this isn't too much for one post. Thanks!
