Model 60 First reduction gear gasket

edinmo

Member
I see some references in the archives to using anaerobic sealers for these gaskets. Has anyone successfully used this or RTV in place of the $49.52 gasket from Deere? Don't mind paying the 49.52 if necessary but my gut feeling is that a good quality "gasket maker" would work just as well in place of the gasket. Thanks for the input.
 
That depends on what you are going to do. If you are going to have a high dollar paint job, and make a trailer queen out of it, get the Deere gasket. If it is a working tractor, you can use RTV gasket maker.
I bought the Deere gasket for my G, changed 1st reduction gear and corresponding pulley gear for antique pulling. I greased the gasket with grease from a gun tube. That was probably 5 years ago, I don't pull anymore, so I recently put the stock gears back in it. Thanks to the grease on the gasket, it did not need replaced this time.
 
You can pick up a sheet of poster board and make one easy, I use a small ball peon hammer for some of it,scissors for some of it, mark the holes with a pencil and using a gasket hole punch to make the bolt holes..This is how the Mr. Gasket Company got it's start..
 
Just replaced the reduction gasket on my 730 and it was $25. Why would the 60 gasket cost twice as much???
 
I remember a post in the past where a guy used 30lb roofing tar
paper to make his gasket, turned out good he said.
MikeS
 
Another thing to remember,,just because it has a part number on it doesn't make it better,,a homemade part or gasket that is well made can be just as good or better than the one with a part number..But don't try to tell that to the parts guy...
 
Locktite "Right Stuff "is the best to use. Takes a little but it will not only seal but hold also. $24 at Napta for a caulk gun size tube. Cleans up with brake cleaner for a clean look when done.
 
(quoted from post at 08:15:40 03/04/17) I see some references in the archives to using anaerobic sealers for these gaskets. Has anyone successfully used this or RTV in place of the $49.52 gasket from Deere? Don't mind paying the 49.52 if necessary but my gut feeling is that a good quality "gasket maker" would work just as well in place of the gasket. Thanks for the input.
Since my concern is not to restore strictly as original, I use Loctite Ultra Grey and have not had any problems. Used it for 1st reduction cover, transmission side tin cover, rear cover/pto housing, top shifter, most every place with reasonably good mating surfaces where there is very little pressure behind. Not for places that require occasional maintenance like the rocker arm cover.
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:18 03/04/17) That depends on what you are going to do. If you are going to have a high dollar paint job, and make a trailer queen out of it, get the Deere gasket. If it is a working tractor, you can use RTV gasket maker.
I bought the Deere gasket for my G, changed 1st reduction gear and corresponding pulley gear for antique pulling. I greased the gasket with grease from a gun tube. That was probably 5 years ago, I don't pull anymore, so I recently put the stock gears back in it. Thanks to the grease on the gasket, it did not need replaced this time.

My apologies for hi-jacking your thread. Old Popper, would you have those gears you used in your G for pulling available for sale, or would you share information on what gears you used?

Thank you, and I apologise again for going off topic.
 
I have had pretty good success with the factory gasket and using either high tack or light coating silicone to stick it to the cover and then a light smear of silicone on the other side.
I do have a 1945 B model that never did seal up right though. It has a factory gasket in there that was made like a jigsaw puzzle out of pieces. One of these day I might take it apart and redo it.
 

Modern "Gasket Maker" is awesome...IF you lay a string of Dental Floss ( Or Silk Thread) inside the Bolt holes and only use a very light bead of Gasket Maker...

That is the way 4 and 5 cylinder Aircraft engines are joined together and it works really good..

I have used this for water-jacket connections and never had any problem..
 
Use 70 reduction gears. All gears are reduced approximately 1/2 normal speed.
 
1st reduction gear from 70 D, but there is machine work involved to put pulley gear on a G pulley.
 
It takes a pretty good sized chunk of gasket paper to make that gasket. If you make other gaskets you will have use for the left over gasket paper from the center of the gasket . If you don't plan to make any more gaskets out of the extra, a ready made one might be cheaper or even up for price. I would be wary of using anything but a good gasket paper. Some other kind of material might wick oil or deteriorate from exposure to oil or shrink and compress with time and make a loose seal.
 
Old Popper,

I am not seeing an e-mail address for you and it looks like private messaging to you is disabled. If possible, could you e-mail me @ kjf470hotmail.com, or I could provide a phone number if you prefer.

I apologise for being off topic.

Thank you
 

One of the side gaskets isn't available for the 830 (so long ago since I did it, I don't remember which one. Timing side I think). So I bought a huge sheet from NAPA and used a ball peen hammer to make a new one myself. Worked good. Nothing wrong with hammering out a gasket if it's good gasket paper. I even use the hammer to do the bolt holes. Just carefully tap around the edge of the bolt holes. The key is to make sure the paper never shifts.
 
I used RTV reduction gear cover about 16 year on a JD 50 and a 720 and it is still holding today.
Would I do it again?
No, I would make one or buy a gasket just so it would be correct.
 
As below , there are many choices. Many moons ago when I 're-did' my 60, I made my own gaskets (in more than one place) out of store bought gasket material. Bought a big piece and still have some left. As said, the center portion can be used for smaller items - duh. A vapour like wipe of RTV is insurance. HTH
 
Okay, got'cha, thank you. Don't know if I want to do it or not....Good friend in Ohio had a well "warmed up" styled G and with excellent pulling tires and it weighted down to 7500 lbs. he sheared the rivets holding the deferential pinion cage to the deferential gear...big trouble! Must have been a little more torque applied to that so-called bullet proof rear end than it could take with the good tires "hooked" into a good pulling track. Soooo, I'll think about it.........
 

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