valiant8086
Member
Hey all. new to the forum. Bought a jd620 a while back.
The gas tank had some black stuff and a few tiny pebbles in it that kept getting into the sediment bowl assembly, so we kept having to unscrew it and clean it out. The stuff wasn't just getting into the bowl but getting hung up on the inlet. Well one of the times we had it off, with my brother trying to clear the crud out while I was using a finger to keep as much gas in the tank as I could, when we put it back together we appear to have gotten the carburetor this time. It only fires on both randomly. The one cylinder runs reliably but the other one is coasting usually. If I hit the throttle the one runs all by itself until the rpm is at max and then maybe the bad one will help.
If I turn the power screw all the way out I have a little bit more throttle response but it's still lousy, about 10 or 12 pops to go from idle to full speed. It was 4 or 5 before. I tried to adjust the idle screws, but if I'm running just on the right cylinder it runs ok, and I set the sweet spot while it was at around 300 rpm, but it won't start on the left plug only. I set it to where I thought it was helping the right one the most just with both plug wires on, but meh. Already put the electronic ignition on because we were having issues with the points system anyway and I want to farm with this some so I'm looking for all the power and fuel efficiency I could get.
So guessing the carburetor got plugged. Will be taking it off at some point soon. It ran super nicely before that when ever the sedimant bowl assembly wasn't plugged off. We had the hood off and the gas tank out and got it mostly clean. It still has black marks in it but we can't get them off. Tried putting brake cleaner on a rag on the end of a stick, the rag turns black but it doesn't change anything in the tank. It's back together but it'll have to come off again eventually because we forgot to run the wire for the fuel sending unit, which we did verify to be working. Our best guess is the black stuff in the tank is the gasket from the sending unit. I bought a replacement for that, it was just a powder when we took the unit off the tank, pretty bazaar.
Exhaust manifold had a pretty bad crack in it and the gaskets were blown out on both sides, so I managed to find a new one at tractorpartsasap.com for $150. Intake was good, so I didn't want the close to $300 kit that had all of it. But I did buy a new heat exchanger, and it's leaking a tiny bit of air around it at max rpm, you can feel it puffing air on your hand if you hold it above the exchanger. Is this normal, and can water get in there and possibly break this one too? The way I have that exchanger now, the word "hot" shows on the left side, does that mean it's for hot weather or for keeping the engine hot? I'd probably just set it for the warm weather, which ever that is, and leave it. We're in West Virginia. We do have cold enough winters, but it seems like it's not going to be very cold blooded at all.
Had to buy a new valve cover gasket. When the engine shuts off it's making a strange gurgling noise that seems to be coming from near the front, any idea what this might be, maybe the power steering or the water pump? I can't hear it myself but I recorded it with my phone and a friend noticed it.
Transmission does have the whine, but I found another thread on here that sort of reassured me to a point. The whine is there for all gears, but my concern is about a clicking that happens in second gear and fourth gear, with fourth being the worst by a fair bit.
Clutch is super grabby, there's absolutely no chance to gradually engage it. Tried adjusting it but that just caused a continual grinding sound until I loosened it up again. I am thinking it needs new hardware but that's on the back burner until we get the engine popping consistently again.
It has new oil in the engine, first reduction gear and transmission and the PTO thing, can't remember what they call that, Power Troll? We flushed the transmission with diesel. That quietened the whine but not the clicking.
It seemed to be running really nicely, we pulled a load of firewood with it up hill in third gear and it was popping super loud and sounded pretty impressive. Hopefully the carburetor cleaning will get us back to that point. Also hopefully it doesn't become a carburetor repair.
The wet lines have a pretty bad leak on the end, so we've just been leaving the pump turned off until we address that.
Question, the center//top link for the 3 point hitch, is there a way I can do that without paying $250 for a new one? It didn't come with one. Can I just buy the end that goes on the tractor and screw that into a normal top link from tsc or something like that? Don't need the knuckle thing on the other end that you can slide down over a ball, a normal one would be fine.
What about the sway blocks for the lift arms? It doesn't have those either, and some of the implements will need that. The disk mower might actually be ok because it has chains that you attach to something in the center where the drawbar is. This doesn't actually have anything we can find to fasten them to, but maybe we can work that out. The blocks are about $60 a piece, and it's not so obvious from the pictures how they mount.
One of the wheels is rusted pretty badly just on the outer rim part, Its not a power adjust rim. No idea what that's going to cost because I haven't figured out what the proper replacement is.
We have a small farm with some cows and we grow and feed round bales. We use slightly more modern tractors normally, but I wanted to be able to play with a 2 cyl and actually still be able to use it. My Farmall M is just not practical and I'm probably going to sell it. It doesn't have the 3 point conversion, and it's a narrow front end. In Wv, that's concerning to us since we do have a lot of hills.
The gas tank had some black stuff and a few tiny pebbles in it that kept getting into the sediment bowl assembly, so we kept having to unscrew it and clean it out. The stuff wasn't just getting into the bowl but getting hung up on the inlet. Well one of the times we had it off, with my brother trying to clear the crud out while I was using a finger to keep as much gas in the tank as I could, when we put it back together we appear to have gotten the carburetor this time. It only fires on both randomly. The one cylinder runs reliably but the other one is coasting usually. If I hit the throttle the one runs all by itself until the rpm is at max and then maybe the bad one will help.
If I turn the power screw all the way out I have a little bit more throttle response but it's still lousy, about 10 or 12 pops to go from idle to full speed. It was 4 or 5 before. I tried to adjust the idle screws, but if I'm running just on the right cylinder it runs ok, and I set the sweet spot while it was at around 300 rpm, but it won't start on the left plug only. I set it to where I thought it was helping the right one the most just with both plug wires on, but meh. Already put the electronic ignition on because we were having issues with the points system anyway and I want to farm with this some so I'm looking for all the power and fuel efficiency I could get.
So guessing the carburetor got plugged. Will be taking it off at some point soon. It ran super nicely before that when ever the sedimant bowl assembly wasn't plugged off. We had the hood off and the gas tank out and got it mostly clean. It still has black marks in it but we can't get them off. Tried putting brake cleaner on a rag on the end of a stick, the rag turns black but it doesn't change anything in the tank. It's back together but it'll have to come off again eventually because we forgot to run the wire for the fuel sending unit, which we did verify to be working. Our best guess is the black stuff in the tank is the gasket from the sending unit. I bought a replacement for that, it was just a powder when we took the unit off the tank, pretty bazaar.
Exhaust manifold had a pretty bad crack in it and the gaskets were blown out on both sides, so I managed to find a new one at tractorpartsasap.com for $150. Intake was good, so I didn't want the close to $300 kit that had all of it. But I did buy a new heat exchanger, and it's leaking a tiny bit of air around it at max rpm, you can feel it puffing air on your hand if you hold it above the exchanger. Is this normal, and can water get in there and possibly break this one too? The way I have that exchanger now, the word "hot" shows on the left side, does that mean it's for hot weather or for keeping the engine hot? I'd probably just set it for the warm weather, which ever that is, and leave it. We're in West Virginia. We do have cold enough winters, but it seems like it's not going to be very cold blooded at all.
Had to buy a new valve cover gasket. When the engine shuts off it's making a strange gurgling noise that seems to be coming from near the front, any idea what this might be, maybe the power steering or the water pump? I can't hear it myself but I recorded it with my phone and a friend noticed it.
Transmission does have the whine, but I found another thread on here that sort of reassured me to a point. The whine is there for all gears, but my concern is about a clicking that happens in second gear and fourth gear, with fourth being the worst by a fair bit.
Clutch is super grabby, there's absolutely no chance to gradually engage it. Tried adjusting it but that just caused a continual grinding sound until I loosened it up again. I am thinking it needs new hardware but that's on the back burner until we get the engine popping consistently again.
It has new oil in the engine, first reduction gear and transmission and the PTO thing, can't remember what they call that, Power Troll? We flushed the transmission with diesel. That quietened the whine but not the clicking.
It seemed to be running really nicely, we pulled a load of firewood with it up hill in third gear and it was popping super loud and sounded pretty impressive. Hopefully the carburetor cleaning will get us back to that point. Also hopefully it doesn't become a carburetor repair.
The wet lines have a pretty bad leak on the end, so we've just been leaving the pump turned off until we address that.
Question, the center//top link for the 3 point hitch, is there a way I can do that without paying $250 for a new one? It didn't come with one. Can I just buy the end that goes on the tractor and screw that into a normal top link from tsc or something like that? Don't need the knuckle thing on the other end that you can slide down over a ball, a normal one would be fine.
What about the sway blocks for the lift arms? It doesn't have those either, and some of the implements will need that. The disk mower might actually be ok because it has chains that you attach to something in the center where the drawbar is. This doesn't actually have anything we can find to fasten them to, but maybe we can work that out. The blocks are about $60 a piece, and it's not so obvious from the pictures how they mount.
One of the wheels is rusted pretty badly just on the outer rim part, Its not a power adjust rim. No idea what that's going to cost because I haven't figured out what the proper replacement is.
We have a small farm with some cows and we grow and feed round bales. We use slightly more modern tractors normally, but I wanted to be able to play with a 2 cyl and actually still be able to use it. My Farmall M is just not practical and I'm probably going to sell it. It doesn't have the 3 point conversion, and it's a narrow front end. In Wv, that's concerning to us since we do have a lot of hills.
