My tractor started by its self ....

[Jim.ME]

Battery cables were hooked up, but ignition was out ,wire to fuel was disconnected, alt, starter solenoid were all disconnected..

If it has

Thank you I will do that, first thing in the A.M have class right now. I did manage to wire up the ignition today. Hopefully it is correct. Its a1963 JD 300 fuel injected diesel. Do you know If the fuel solenoid is bad would that keep feeding fuel to the motor? Thank you for your time have a nice day.

Diesels are fuel injected; a gas engine of that vintage would have a carburetor. A diesel has a switch, but it does not have an ignition system. The switch energizes a solenoid inside the injection pump to turn the fuel on. If the fuel solenoid is bad, it could prevent the engine from running or it might not shut the fuel off to stop the engine. It would not seem the solenoid is preventing it from starting since you originally posted it started by itself and ran for about an hour, then you took a bolt out of the fuel pump to stop it. Which fuel pump did you take a bolt out of to stop the engine? The engine has a transfer (aka lift) pump on the right side of the engine just forward of the starter. The injection pump is on the left front corner of the engine. Depending on which pump and which bolt you took out to stop the engine, you might have run it out of fuel, or it might have damaged something. If it ran out of fuel you may need to bleed the system before it will start.

If not wired correctly it would be possible for the alternator to back feed the injection pump shutoff solenoid, but you have said there were no wires on anything so back feed from the alternator does not seem likely. What I mentioned before about a resistor bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil only applies to a gasoline engine, not to a diesel.

The JD 300 was built 1965 to 1973 so if it is a 300 it does not appear it would be a 1963 and if you are 100% sure it is a 1963 tractor it would seem it is something other than a 300.

What are you using as a guide to do the wiring as you said you do not have any manuals?

 

[J.Wondergem]

My uncle's 2940 started up by itself one night while it was outside in the rain. I think the rain got into the starter relay and made contact. Of course the starter was junk after that.

I had a road tractor that did the same thing. Didn't ruin the starter but gave me the willys when my wife woke me up and said someone was messing with my truck and it was running.

 

[motgirl]

If it has

Diesels are fuel injected; a gas engine of that vintage would have a carburetor. A diesel has a switch, but it does not have an ignition system. The switch energizes a solenoid inside the injection pump to turn the fuel on. If the fuel solenoid is bad, it could prevent the engine from running or it might not shut the fuel off to stop the engine. It would not seem the solenoid is preventing it from starting since you originally posted it started by itself and ran for about an hour, then you took a bolt out of the fuel pump to stop it. Which fuel pump did you take a bolt out of to stop the engine? The engine has a transfer (aka lift) pump on the right side of the engine just forward of the starter. The injection pump is on the left front corner of the engine. Depending on which pump and which bolt you took out to stop the engine, you might have run it out of fuel, or it might have damaged something. If it ran out of fuel you may need to bleed the system before it will start.

If not wired correctly it would be possible for the alternator to back feed the injection pump shutoff solenoid, but you have said there were no wires on anything so back feed from the alternator does not seem likely. What I mentioned before about a resistor bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil only applies to a gasoline engine, not to a diesel.

The JD 300 was built 1965 to 1973 so if it is a 300 it does not appear it would be a 1963 and if you are 100% sure it is a 1963 tractor it would seem it is something other than a 300.

What are you using as a guide to do the wiring as you said you do not have any manuals?

Apologize for the delay, Since no wires were connected I rewired the ignition, no dashlights, no voltmeter no oil or water guages.I backed out the bolt on the fuel injector pump. The one that stops it from going to fast (govenor?) I managed to get it out of the weeds. I have used a tractor before but this one has been sitting for 3 years. It has no brakes I have been told, I have also been told they can be adjusted? I have pressure washed it ,wire brushed all the grease fittings I opened the cap behind the seat and it looks real dry, I know the oil was changed a while ago but it has 3 hours on it since .I am wondering what type of fluids go in it and where. brake fluid, and hydraulic ect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has the same tractor any tips on what not to do. I have plenty of land to figure out most of it out but dont want to end up breaking anything.

If it has

Diesels are fuel injected; a gas engine of that vintage would have a carburetor. A diesel has a switch, but it does not have an ignition system. The switch energizes a solenoid inside the injection pump to turn the fuel on. If the fuel solenoid is bad, it could prevent the engine from running or it might not shut the fuel off to stop the engine. It would not seem the solenoid is preventing it from starting since you originally posted it started by itself and ran for about an hour, then you took a bolt out of the fuel pump to stop it. Which fuel pump did you take a bolt out of to stop the engine? The engine has a transfer (aka lift) pump on the right side of the engine just forward of the starter. The injection pump is on the left front corner of the engine. Depending on which pump and which bolt you took out to stop the engine, you might have run it out of fuel, or it might have damaged something. If it ran out of fuel you may need to bleed the system before it will start.

If not wired correctly it would be possible for the alternator to back feed the injection pump shutoff solenoid, but you have said there were no wires on anything so back feed from the alternator does not seem likely. What I mentioned before about a resistor bypass wire from the starter solenoid to the coil only applies to a gasoline engine, not to a diesel.

The JD 300 was built 1965 to 1973 so if it is a 300 it does not appear it would be a 1963 and if you are 100% sure it is a 1963 tractor it would seem it is something other than a 300.

What are you using as a guide to do the wiring as you said you do not have any manuals?

 

[Tx Jim]

Hyd oil required is JD Hy-Gard or any hyd that meets specification of J20C. Hyd oil is checked with dipstick located on rear of RH footrest next to trans case. Check with engine operating at idle speed. Add hyd at rear top of rockshaft housing behind seat. Brake valve receives it's fluid from hyd system when engine is operating IE no brake fluid utilized.

 

[flying belgian]

So the tractor had been sitting for about 3 years. The wires were cut because it wouldn't turn off. So I decided to try to put the ignition back in it. The only thing that was connected to the battery was the positive and negative cables. No fuel. No starter. No generator. All the wires were disconnected. Everything even voltmeter And it started by itself. Sounded great, but it wouldn't turn off. So finally, After letting it run for about an hour. With no idea how to turn it off. I backed out the bolt on the fuel pump. And it died. Did I mention it to John Deere in 1963 Tractor”. Not a lawn mower”. With the bucket and brush hog. Basically, I decided to take everything out and completely rewire it. And boom, it started. Craziest thing I've ever seen. And what I'm asking is, anybody know why that happened? And why it won't turn off? Before I go doing this again, any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Or advice? Thank you.Also there is 1 wire coming out of the transmission I have no idea where that goes.

Are you for real? What are you talking about?

 

[Jim.ME]

Apologize for the delay, Since no wires were connected I rewired the ignition, no dashlights, no voltmeter no oil or water guages.I backed out the bolt on the fuel injector pump. The one that stops it from going to fast (govenor?) I managed to get it out of the weeds. I have used a tractor before but this one has been sitting for 3 years. It has no brakes I have been told, I have also been told they can be adjusted? I have pressure washed it ,wire brushed all the grease fittings I opened the cap behind the seat and it looks real dry, I know the oil was changed a while ago but it has 3 hours on it since .I am wondering what type of fluids go in it and where. brake fluid, and hydraulic ect. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has the same tractor any tips on what not to do. I have plenty of land to figure out most of it out but dont want to end up breaking anything.

View attachment 71425View attachment 71425

Tx Jim gave you the info on the hydraulic oil.

If you look on the right side of transmission, in the area Tx Jim told you the dipstick is, you should see a tag that will confirm the model and serial number. From that I will look and find, then tell you how to get to and download a free copy of the Operator's Manual on the JD Construction and Forestry bookstore.

 

[motgirl]

Hyd oil required is JD Hy-Gard or any hyd that meets specification of J20C. Hyd oil is checked with dipstick located on rear of RH footrest next to trans case. Check with engine operating at idle speed. Add hyd at rear top of rockshaft housing behind seat. Brake valve receives it's fluid from hyd system when engine is operating IE no brake fluid utilized.

Thank you very much

 

[motgirl]

Tx Jim gave you the info on the hydraulic oil.

If you look on the right side of transmission, in the area Tx Jim told you the dipstick is, you should see a tag that will confirm the model and serial number. From that I will look and find, then tell you how to get to and download a free copy of the Operator's Manual on the JD Construction and Forestry bookstore.

I cant make out most of it, its in pretty bad shape.

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you for real? What are you talking about?

If you read through the thread, she said in a later post that there were wires to the starter and ground hooked up. And perhaps some other things weren't worded just right.

 

[Jim.ME]

I cant make out most of it, its in pretty bad shape.

Here is a breakdown of your serial number.

T = Tractor
4 = JD300
W = Industrial
3 = Diesel
D = Collar shift transmission with Reverser

053--- = the unit serial number (the 300s were built 1965 - 1973. That serial number should be for a 1967 tractor)

T (after the 6-digit serial number) means it was built at the Dubuque plant.

The 300 is an industrial version of the 1020 ag tractor.

Use this link to go the: John Deere Construction and Forestry Bookstore.

On that page type 300 in the model box, you will get a dropdown list of several pieces of equipment with 300 in the model title. Click on the 300 that appears in the dropdown list. That should get you a list of manuals for the 300 industrial tractor. OMT32951 looks like the Operator's Manual you need for your tractor with the loader. Click on the Download box and you can download a free copy to your device. once you download it you can print from the pdf you downloaded. The manuals there, other than the Operator's Manuals are for sale. Note the publication numbers to look for if you want to search for them online. Wiring diagrams and such are in the service manual. (SM2073 should be the service manual for your 300.) Another time one of us will tell you how to find the parts manual for it online. John Deere is making some changes to the site this month, so we are all going to have to see just what they do to affect access to the parts catalogs.

 

[flying belgian]

If you read through the thread, she said in a later post that there were wires to the starter and ground hooked up. And perhaps some other things weren't worded just right.

Okay. I guess I should have read everything.

 

[motgirl]

Here is a breakdown of your serial number.

T = Tractor
4 = JD300
W = Industrial
3 = Diesel
D = Collar shift transmission with Reverser

053--- = the unit serial number (the 300s were built 1965 - 1973. That serial number should be for a 1967 tractor)

T (after the 6-digit serial number) means it was built at the Dubuque plant.

The 300 is an industrial version of the 1020 ag tractor.

Use this link to go the: John Deere Construction and Forestry Bookstore.

On that page type 300 in the model box, you will get a dropdown list of several pieces of equipment with 300 in the model title. Click on the 300 that appears in the dropdown list. That should get you a list of manuals for the 300 industrial tractor. OMT32951 looks like the Operator's Manual you need for your tractor with the loader. Click on the Download box and you can download a free copy to your device. once you download it you can print from the pdf you downloaded. The manuals there, other than the Operator's Manuals are for sale. Note the publication numbers to look for if you want to search for them online. Wiring diagrams and such are in the service manual. (SM2073 should be the service manual for your 300.) Another time one of us will tell you how to find the parts manual for it online. John Deere is making some changes to the site this month, so we are all going to have to see just what they do to affect access to the parts catalogs.

Wow thank you! Jim, your kindness is amazing, And really appreciated. Respectfully, Danielle

 

[motgirl]

Here is a breakdown of your serial number.

T = Tractor
4 = JD300
W = Industrial
3 = Diesel
D = Collar shift transmission with Reverser

053--- = the unit serial number (the 300s were built 1965 - 1973. That serial number should be for a 1967 tractor)

T (after the 6-digit serial number) means it was built at the Dubuque plant.

The 300 is an industrial version of the 1020 ag tractor.

Use this link to go the: John Deere Construction and Forestry Bookstore.

On that page type 300 in the model box, you will get a dropdown list of several pieces of equipment with 300 in the model title. Click on the 300 that appears in the dropdown list. That should get you a list of manuals for the 300 industrial tractor. OMT32951 looks like the Operator's Manual you need for your tractor with the loader. Click on the Download box and you can download a free copy to your device. once you download it you can print from the pdf you downloaded. The manuals there, other than the Operator's Manuals are for sale. Note the publication numbers to look for if you want to search for them online. Wiring diagrams and such are in the service manual. (SM2073 should be the service manual for your 300.) Another time one of us will tell you how to find the parts manual for it online. John Deere is making some changes to the site this month, so we are all going to have to see just what they do to affect access to the parts catalogs.

Thanks again, I found it. One question should I be able to see hydraulic fluid when I remove the cap. I do not see a dipstick anywhere. And if I over fiil will that be a problem. I am assuming that is what is wrong with the breaks. So I am going to try and bleed them. "Never mind the fact that I tried to fill them with my grease gun." Hahahah

 

[Tx Jim]

Look on rear of RH footrest next to trans case & you should see a dipstick knurled nut. Over filling trans can cause hyd oil to heat up. Check hyd oil after removing dipstick by placing dipstick nut against threads while engine is operating at idle speed

 

[motgirl]

Tx Jim gave you the info on the hydraulic oil.

If you look on the right side of transmission, in the area Tx Jim told you the dipstick is, you should see a tag that will confirm the model and serial number. From that I will look and find, then tell you how to get to and download a free copy of the Operator's Manual on the JD Construction and Forestry bookstore.

Look on rear of RH footrest next to trans case & you should see a dipstick knurled nut. Over filling trans can cause hyd oil to heat up. Check hyd oil after removing dipstick by placing dipstick nut against threads while engine is operating at idle speed

should it look tan and cloudy? kinda reminds me of a blown head gasket?

 

[Tx Jim]

Depends on brand of hyd oil. JD Hy-Gard hyd oil is tannish in color. Next time after tractor has set unused overnight before you start engine loosen hyd oil drain plug about 3 rounds then wait a few minutes to determine if any water droplets come out around plug threads.

 

[motgirl]

should it look tan and cloudy? kinda reminds me of a blown head gasket?

Depends on brand of hyd oil. JD Hy-Gard hyd oil is tannish in color. Next time after tractor has set unused overnight before you start engine loosen hyd oil drain plug about 3 rounds then wait a few minutes to determine if any water droplets come out around plug threads.

one last question should I add fluid while running? Its low I am praying thats why i have no brakes.