NAA oil canister conversion question

[Dan]

I got a conversion kit from John Smith a while back to convert my NAA (Rustbucket) from a OEM canister oil filter to the common spin on oil filter (Fram PH8A type). As usual - John bead blasted the kit and it is nice and shiny. I want to paint it up before I install it on Rustbucket, but in looking at the design a few questions have come up. If I paint the entire coversion plate, I worry over time paint will flake/peel off and get down into the oil galleys and clog oiler holes up.

My question is this: How does the oil flow on a regular spin off oil filter - from outside to inside or visa versa? If I paint the coversion plate, but oil that would come in contact with peeling paint still has to go through the filter before flowing through the center bolt opening - no problems as the paint would get trapped in the filter. If the oil comes out of the center hole/bolt and flows to the outside of the filter - then there is a possible problem.

I am trying to determine if I need to bother taping the center section of the conversion plate up or not.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Bob]

Flow is from outside to inside.

There is a perforated metal sleeve down the center of the element to support it and prevent the filter from crushing, I suppose at cold startup, as much as anything.

If the oil were to flow the other way, it would tend to "balloon" the element outwards and tear it apart.

 

[Jubilee85]

Dan,

why not buy 2 filters. Place one on the adapter and place it on the tractor and paint it - the paint will only go on the adapter. Or place the filter on the adatper and cover the backside with tape and paint - true you will have a filter with paint on it, or you could wrap the filter with paper and tape to cover it. Either way - the outside surface will get paint the mating surfaces will stay "clean"

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:29:24 02/18/09) I got a conversion kit from John Smith a while back to convert my NAA (Rustbucket) from a OEM canister oil filter to the common spin on oil filter (Fram PH8A type). As usual - John bead blasted the kit and it is nice and shiny. I want to paint it up before I install it on Rustbucket, but in looking at the design a few questions have come up. If I paint the entire coversion plate, I worry over time paint will flake/peel off and get down into the oil galleys and clog oiler holes up.

My question is this: How does the oil flow on a regular spin off oil filter - from outside to inside or visa versa? If I paint the coversion plate, but oil that would come in contact with peeling paint still has to go through the filter before flowing through the center bolt opening - no problems as the paint would get trapped in the filter. If the oil comes out of the center hole/bolt and flows to the outside of the filter - then there is a possible problem.

I am trying to determine if I need to bother taping the center section of the conversion plate up or not.

Thanks,
Dan

hey are always designed to obtain the maximum dirt trapping surface area..........that means flow from outside toward inside.
Always is a BIG word, so somebody, somewhere will probably 'claim' he's seen otherwise......but I say 'show me'.

 

[Dan]

Thanks - that is what I needed to know.

 

[Dan]

I am painting it right now (75 degree sunny weather in Dallas) and Rustbucket is at my property 1 1/2 hours away. I have the cap off the primer spray can that is the perfect dimension if I needed to mask that area off.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Dan]

Thanks bud - that I what I figured - but you know what happens when you ASSume...

Dan

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:53:13 02/18/09) Thanks bud - that I what I figured - but you know what happens when you ASSume...

Dan

an, I think I remember that you are around Garland(?) & me Plano with property about Emory. We ought to kick back one or two over a tractor sometime.

 

[souNdguy]

I think you are making hte right choice by not painting the opil contact area.. I wouldn't.. just incase the paint did come off.

soundguy

 

[Dan]

Yep - I live in Garland with 42 acres just northeast of Bonham. Used to work right next to EDS before being unemployed. Wife if an East Plano graduate.

Since unemployment - I have been SLOOOWLY putzing around with my '39 9N in the garage doing stuff that doesn't cost any capital.

Alway like drinking a cold one, meeting new folks, and talking or working on old iron.

Dan

 

[Dan]

Hows this? I decided better safe than sorry.

Dan

 

[souNdguy]

Yep.. and a smear of greas eor oil on the new oring on the spin on oil filter and you should be good to go.

So far.. I'm not sure which i like better.. the cnister like my 660 still has.. or the spin on like my other hundreds have... both seem to drip a good amount of oil when i remove them!

I will say that the spin on is cheaper though.. with fl1a motorcraft at 3.99$ each.. vs the ch6pl or napa 1004 filter elements...

soundguy

 

[Dan]

I decided to go with the spin off because when my carb leaks from the bottom drain hole on occasion it is staining the original oil filter canister and just plain looks bad. I know that doesn't matter with operation - just hate looking at it. This way, the stain is on a replaceable filter and I will save the original canister in case I dress Rusty up for show (after I repaint it of course).

Dan

 

[souNdguy]

No explanation needed.. I think yer answer is as good as any.

soundguy

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 21:25:25 02/18/09) Hows this? I decided better safe than sorry.

Dan

remove any paint the filter gasket will contact,,, the gasket will stick to the paint and stay in place when the filter is removed,,, mite not happen to you but then again it mite are to the next guy,,, I have seen these were painted and on the next oil change the one do'n the service did not catch the stuck gasket and it cost'em a engine

Almost cost me one on a engine I rebuilt,,, towed it in sometime later with a blow engine,,, oil was all over the side of it and I could C the old oil filter gasket bulging out from under the new filter,,, the station that changed the oil had to pay for it,,, I have seen were new paint would cause the gasket to stick,,, from then on the surface is squeaky clean and the new filter gasket has oil applied to it

 

[Dan]

Good idea. Once the paint is dry, I will test fit it wand make sure to remove any paint that touches the filter gasket.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[Wayne IA]

And put the slot of the adapter to the top so the oil does not drain off when the engine is shut off. That way oil preasure will be a lot quicker at start up

 

[gahorN]

I realize that filter instructions typically advise to smear oil or grease onto the gasket at installation, but that is really not a good idea.

The purpose is to make the gasket slippery for installation to prevent the gasket from grabbing the mounting plate and "twisting" out of position during installation (which would cause a leak and maybe engine damage like Hobo mentions.) Of course oil or grease would accomplish the desired purpose [i:d68c61b667]for installation[/i:d68c61b667].... Unfortunately it does nothing for subsequent removal as the grease/oil cook and act as an adhesive, which will make filter removal more difficult and may stick the old gasket to the engine as Hobo pointed out. This exposes you to the engine failure possibility if that old gasket isn't noticed still sticking to the engine and you go ahead and screw a new filter down onto it.

Better solution: Use Dow-Corning "DC-4" or other brand of silicone-grease or silicone spray on the gasket when installing it. It will lubricate the gasket for installation ... and keep it lubricated all the way to removal time...when the filter will easily unscrew by hand instead of being stuck.

Dow Corning DC-4 can be found at most NAPA stores, aviation supply houses, etc. It comes in a toothpaste-tube.

 

[souNdguy]

IMHO.. making sure the gasket doesn't move, slip or bunch up upon instalation is the prime concern here.. not for removal later.

When you remove the filter later you can THEN check for any gasket left sticking to the contact area and THEN clean it appropriatly after you inspect it.

Not many people will have a once a year use specialized grease or spray lube on hand.. however.. we will ALL have our new oil on hand. and thus lubing that seal is a good idea.

Good operating procedure dictates that you clean and inspect the seal mating area after removal, prior to ney filter reinstalation.

I've never had an oil filter seal come unseated when using grease or oil.. I HAVE had them turn, fold or bunch up putting them on dry.

Upon removal I always check for old seal remnants, and like to clean the area with a clean lint free towel anyway.. just to keep crud and contaminants out.

that form of good procedure will work.

If we all were pro mechanics and did 30 oil changes in our shop per week.. we could keep the special 1-shot and forget chemicals on hand and not worry about it.

Only a very small percentage of us here are pro mechanics...

soundguy