Need 0.010 main bearing for a 1655

dnd

Member
Bought a 1655 last fall with engine issues. Started it and let it run a bit and the engine stuck. Let it cool down and it start d right back up. So I finally got it into the shop
over the weekend and drained the oil and dropped the pan. There is a different cap on main bearing Number 3 and it looks like the bearing got hot as the bearing was
all copper,, I pulled main bearing caps 2 and 4 and they look like new and have the following bearing number on them RP897-10. So I wondering if I can just put in a
new bearing and check the clearance with plastiguage?
I?m not exited about pulling the engine and having all the bearing line bored.
Any thoughts were i can find one bearing .010 under?
Thoughts, comments!
 
Confused. Think you want a standard, not 0.010 under. Did that main not get ground under? Use plastigage to see what clearance is?
 
   In my opinion you are trying to do a "corncrib repair".   Should you not choose to disassemble and have the line bore corrected it won't run very long in the least.
 
If it is a line boring problem, would not the failed bearing show an off sides wear pattern? Maybe that journal did not get ground 0.010 under?
 
Take another main cap and bearing off and put it on where the bad one was with plastigage, that will tell you what clearance is. If you decide to just put it back together with new bearing I would take several main caps off and blow air through oil hole in crank from one journal to another. Would also check rear main as it is usually in the worst condition due to the weight of the flywheel. Reliance parts will usually sell just one bearing. There is such a thing as bearing failure due to a flaw during production of bearing, but now you don't know where or how much metal shavings from that bearing there are in the rest of the motor. Stuff like this is always tough call six one way half a dozen the other.
 
I had one like that and it was a simple matter of a cap having been turned 180 degrees. You cannot move caps around and expect to get a correct reading with plastic gauge. Caps are numbered and must remain in the spot they are line bored to. If a cap is damaged and replaced then the block has to be line bored again. Check for a bent crank. That engine may have had an internal water leak and suffered "hydro-lock" Sounds like you need the services of a good automotive machine shop. Good luck. Arnie
 
Good thoughts and much thanks. I will pick up some plastigage today and measure the main clearance on both sides.
Off hand I thought many years ago they made two different colors Red and Green.. Any idea what oil clearance I should be looking for.
Will dig into it further tonight got when I get home form work..
Thanks again everyone.
 
Did you say this was a gas engine? Green plastic is for rods and red is for the mains. Book said rods are .5-2.5 and mains are .5-3.5 I just finished putting a 1655 gas total rebuild back together in my shop. Only need to put the sheet metal back on. Nice running tractors. Arnie
 
My thoughts and comment? Ziffel and B A Star are spot on. Do the job properly. Bent rods are a result of hydraulic locking but bent cranks are not unknown...
 
a little bit of advise... you CANNOT get the main brg. caps or rod caps mixed up. the mains are line bored. the rods are sized bolted together. any mixup requires a line bore on the mains if you don't get them figured out. you will not get around this like it or not. kinda separates experienced knowledgeable mechanics from farm yard mechanics. you are wasting time and an engine putting in a .010 brg. and there is very little chance that only one journal would be .010 under. plastiqage your brgs. and you will see whats going on.
 
it is my understanding he wants to increase the clearance on that one worn out brg. with a .010 under brg. ,... bit that will never work because the brg. will be thicker than a standard brg.
 

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