Need a better (cheap) way to cut grass hay!

RacerX

Member
I'm new to this hobby hay making thing, last week was my first time, made 175 bales of grass hay for my wife's horses on about 2 acres. Almost all of the knowledge to do this was gained by reading this forum.
My new to me but old $500 Massey Ferguson #3 baler worked perfectly once I figured out how to adjust bale length and tension. I was really impressed that a 50 year old baler could work that well! It never missed a bale once I adjusted it. And my New Idea 402 hayrake worked just fine also, no complaints. I pull these implements with my loader tractor, a Ford 340 industrial, with a 3 point and independant PTO.
But my mower needs help! I used a side mount 54" sickle mower mounted on a Simplicity garden tractor. I figured the small tractor would be more nimble in the small hayfield. And it was, and it could cut the grass, (which was 4 to 5 feet tall, what with the wet spring we've had!) but I couldn't get the grass to feed over that sickle for anything! It was plugged up about every 50 feet or so, and nothing I did seemed to help much. In fairness, some of the hay was lodged, and from what I've read, others have had the same problems with farm tractor mounted sickle mowers.
I figure next year conditions will probably be similar, and I've learned some neighbors have small fields they'd like hayed and would give me the hay for doing it, so I need a better mower. But what? I saw a neighbor mowing similar sized grass with a New Holland haybine, and he was just walking right through it. So I've kind of been looking at haybine ads, but they're either real expensive or they're old 9 foot cut machines. I looked at at a pretty nice $500 9 foot haybine last fall, but the thing was about 12 feet wide overall, it wouldn't even fit through my gates! And my tractor doesn't have hydraulic remotes.
Any other ideas? I've been thinking about building a new sickle mower this winter, one with a reel over the cutter bar, like a haybine or combine head. The grass hay dried in about a day and a half once cut, I don't know that I really need the conditioner rolls of a haybine. Has anybody ever built or used something like this? Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any advise offered.
 
When a sickle plugs its mostly from worn guards, or sickle sections, or sickle sections not riding against the guards. A sickle cuts like scissors between the sections and the guards, not by inertia like a rotary or flail mower. Every sickle section and every guard have to be sharp to cut good.

The other problem can be going forward too fast, not giving the sickle time to cut.

Gerald J.
 
I would agree with Gerald on this. i have a old ford 501 sickle mower that when i first used it would just clog up. replaced all 33 sections and most of the guards. i have mowed about 80 acres now and it works great.
 
Not sure what area you're in, but there are usually an ample supply of 7' haybines around my area.

If you can dry hay well enough in your area I'd work on fixing the sickle mower, but around here if you want top quality you really need a haybine/conditioner.

I've run a 9' haybine off a 40 hp tractor, works fine if you've got patience, but you're right about the gates I "widened" one or two on the fly!
 

If your tractor dosen't have remotes, you are pretty well limited to looking for a 3ph sickle bar mower. Try to get one with the belt drive balanced head system instead of a pitman rod mower. A MF 41(I think that's the model #) is a good older one, but I'm not sure about parts for it. The NH 451 is a good late model one.

You COULD use a haybine and get a ratcheting connector to raise and lower it instead of a
hydraulic cylinder but it would be a pain. Be sure the rubber rollers are in good shape if you get a haybine.

KEH
 
Racer: while the others are correct beware of the old haybines they can be a money pit. Also look at the sitrex (and other) double acting sickle mowers.
 
Chances are good the your tractor does have remote capabilities but just not hooked up but if it doesent then easy job to add the valve and hoses. And any older semi mount mower with a hand lift lever can be used with that tractor and are cheep to buy, You can get good used bar mowers from less than $50 to $200, no need to pay more.
 
You can easily steal a hydraulic connection from your loader. Either remove or chain up the bucket, disconnect the hoses from it and add quick connects. I actually set mine up with rear mounted quick connects, and hoses leading forward to another set of quick connects at the valve, so I can easily change from remotes to loader. A further (more expensive) refinement would be a diverter valve in the bucket circuit.
 
You say you are cutting grass that is four to five feet tall. If it is cutting it OK like you say then your ground speed is not fast enough. You need to out run the cut hay so it falls backward over the cutter bar. What kind of grass and where do you live that four to five foot grass will dry in a day and a half? If I were in your situation I would go with a three point mount sickle mower, fix it up and set it up the way it should be.
 
If your 340 has a pto, get a 3 point hitch bush hog model 205 0r 206, or 305 or 306 mower. These mowers have a removable left hand side panel, that when you take it off, allows you to shoot the hay out to the left. These mowers also condition the hay, kinda, dries faster than a haybine, anyway. The drawback is, though you go pretty slow when cutting. On my D10 Allis, I was mostly in 2nd gear high, sometimes had to drop down a notch. If your 340 is 40HP+, you probably can run the 6' mower, if not, get a 5' mower
 
Sickle mowers are antiques. Get a real mower like a PZ or a Vicon. I am not impressed with Kuhn's and other with rigid lower guides, they wear faster and if the grass is the "runner" type like bermeuda grass you have to pick it up on every turn. A PZ or Vicon has rotating disks under the drum and cut like a dream. About 1" from the ground, no scalping, no plug ups, no hydraulics needed for a 5'-7' unit and cuts as fast as your tractor pto can keep up with... Rotary Disk Mower... My grandfather GAVE a sickle bar mower away 35-40 years ago. I have never seen one for sale or use in my area and I grew up in hay country.

Charles
 
I must say even with a wet spring, I've never seen hay 5'tall!! For your small acrage, like myself, I think a sickle would be fine. Why spend all that money on a MoCo that you'll have to widen all your gates for? I use my NH 451 sickle for no more than 5 acres a cutting. Did have a problem one year with it pluging but believe it was caused buy the tangled wet hay. Second cutting it walked right through it. Maybe if you had thick wet hay your sickle will do better next time? I do have an old JD 32 Conditioner I use after cutting clover or big juicy stem hay. For grass hay I don't think it helps much. Good Luck, there is an art to every job you'll learn over time.
 
I don"t know about an actual disc mower for that small of an operation, but maybe a drum mower. I think new they are less than $3000 for like a 5 and half foot cut. Need no hydraulics, and require low horsepower. Maybe could find a decent used one for $1000 to $1500...maybe that"s still to much. Guess it would depend on the nieghbors fields...
 
Noone seems to have asked the obvious (to me, anyway) questions. Was the hay dry when you were trying to mow? Any sickle mower I was ever around has a hard time cleaning itself if you are trying to mow wet stuff. Around here, that sometimes means wating until after noon to start mowing, especially in thick stuff. Also, was there any old growth/thatch in it from last year? That stuff will plug a sickle mower bad also. And did an experienced operator give you any pointers on running the mower? I'm not trying to pick on you here, but there ane some manuvers that will cause you great difficulty that can be worked around so they don't cause so much trouble. If it was your first time, could be you are simply in the learning curve. We all have to go thru it.
 
If you want a cheap grass mower buy an old 7ft New Idea cut-ditioner. They're cheap and a pretty good grass mower. In alfalfa they justbeat off the leaves bad, but will cut anything with out plugging up. A 7ft can be had for $500 or less at an auction. Plus you wouldn't have to use a cylinder if thats an issue, but its strongly perfered. Mowed stathes should bother a cut-ditioner if not lifted up.
 
I tell you, as far as drum mowers are concerned, you have to get up real early to beat a Reese Drum mower. Some call them a UFO mower because of the drum shape. No gearbox, and the basic models don't require external hydraulics. they are available from a company caller Tigerco out of Braymer, MO.

Problem is you never see them used...once you buy one it never wears out. Going on 15 years with the one I use.
 
i have the haymaxx 165 from ccm, good little machine i run it mostly behind a ford 3000. it will cut just about anything just as fast AS YOU CAN SIT ON THE TRACTOR oops sorry about the caps! anyway i have a saginaw 3 point on my ole h and have cut several fields with it on there
 
Thanks everyone for your responses. Sorry it took me so long to reply, but we raced both Friday and Saturday night last weekend, so I've been a little busy. Not sure what I'll do, but I do like the idea of a drum mower. I'll have to keep an eye out for one of those.
 

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