Need Process to Prep Parts for Storage before Paint

[IowaAndy]

So, I've lurked and read a hundred posts on painting and parts prep. Lots of great ideas, but to follow some of the best practices for each stage is not only slow, it would take forever to get the tractor painted!

So, here's the list of steps I'm taking:

1. Electrolysis bath to remove paint, rust, grease. (this works GREAT!! As an engineer I love using science to do the grunt work)

2. Wash parts with fresh water while scrubbing with scotch brite pad (in the yard)

3. Spray down with rattle can degreaser (brake cleaner)

4. Wipe down part with clean shop rag (Scott's Rags)

5. Rattle can etching primer on paintable surfaces

6. After 15 minutes, WD-40 on non paintable surfaces (inside of valve cover ,for instance).

7. Store part on shelf until time for final paint (up to 6 months)

8. Pull parts for paint day

9. Degrease parts with rattle can degreaser to remove WD40 overspray

10. Scotch brite parts for sealing primer

11. Spray sealing primer, 2 coats

12. 320 grit after primer sets

13. Enamel with harder topcoat (2-3 coats)

14. Allow parts to cure 48 hours inside before much handling

15. Assemble on tractor

Ok, so here's the issue. I work a day job, and can clean up 2-4 parts after the kids are in bed. Not realistic to set up the gun to spray primer for 2 parts, then do cleanup. I need to batch parts to a point where I have a full Saturday of paint work. So, are there other processes I can use to get the results I want?

My key issue is that I need to stabilize parts after the soda bath to keep them from rusting. I'm in central Iowa, 60% humidity is the norm. Parts out of the bath start rusting within 60 minutes.

Posters on here are very critical of rattle cans for any paint work. What's the best alternative (if spray gun isn't an option) while I'm slowly cleaning up parts? I'm open to alternatives.

I'm considering WD40 for all parts in storage, and just do batch cleaning before prime and paint.

The overall goal is a 95% restoration. Engine is going to be pulled, and virutally every part will be addressed individually. It was my grandpa's tractor, and I'm an engineer. It would kill me to do less than an engineer-ish quality job! =)

Thanks for any input!

IowaAndy

PS www.1936farmall.blogspot.com is where I'm keeping a journal of the progress...
1936 Farmall F20 Restoration

 

[scott#2]

Electrolyisis is a good way to strip them down, lye works the best, there's some Red Crown hy test available through mailorder from Boyer. Short of that, I just use wire wheels and mfr.

What I usually do is strip the part, coat it with must for rust, wire wheel it after the mfr dries and then coat it again with mfr and let it set until I'm ready to paint, shoot right over the mfr. Alot less steps and effective.

scott

 

[Brian in Ohio]

Maybe consider a smaller spray gun. Something that will be easier for clean up, carries only a small amount of paint, and can cover the 2-4 parts in an evening. This way, you don't have to worry so much about re-prepping each part when it's time to primer / paint.

 

[CNKS]

Picklex 20, Must for Rust, or a similar product will protect against rust for months if kept dry. Clean the part with whatever method you want prior to using. Before painting I remove the residue with a scotchbrite pad, then treat with wax and grease remover. Forget etch primer, and particularly WD 40; wax and grease remover is better than brake cleaner and is made for the purpose.