"New" H update, and questions

[WellWorn]

First, the good:

As mentioned last, it's first job was hauling wet (with all the rain) bedding and manure to a somewhat soggy field 3 miles away (part of our leased land which tends to be a bit dryer than ours). I got half the 50bu ground drive spreader unloaded on old weedy sod on the first trip, when the draw pin started pulling weeds and mud, and forward motion ceased. Pulled the pin and the H stirred mud for another 20', but walked away. Call me impressed. If I'd tried that with the SA, it would still be sitting there. The spreader is still in the field because we've gotten another 2+" of rain since, lots of full overcast when it isn't raining or drizzling, with more rain forecast for the next 3 days, and the field owner doesn't want things further torn up getting it out, even though the plan was to fertilize, disk, and re-seed for hay/grazing. The good news is only about another 7 loads needing to go...

Other good things: Touch the key and it purrs. Road gear just flies. For a 28hp tractor, it pulls the hills really well. Steers great. Ride is downright comfortable. I am really, really going to like this tractor, especially when I get a 3pt on it, and eventually, live hydraulics. Anyone out there have front cover and pump drive gear parts for a 300/350 they'd be willing to part with? Probably not.


Now the problems:

It pops out of 4th, especially when going across a field at a high idle (pull/push surge through transmission). Shift detent seems to "click in", but the shifter also hits the 'dash' pipe in 4th. Any suggestions?

Right rim clamps don't seem to be clamping tight as even after torquing with an air wrench, I can still hear a slight 'chuck' to that side in 5th. I'll pull them and use a mill to evenly take a bit off the flat faces.

I moved the hydraulic line from the front cylinder to the back to run a mo-co lift cylinder (as a one way), and noticed that when I pull the liftall rod, the PTO shaft runs. Not sure if it's fully powered (enough to run equipment), but it does seem to have substantial torque. What's up with that? Got the manuals yesterday and it doesn't mention anything of the sort.

 

[Owen Aaland]

If the PTO has substantial drag while nor engaged it most likely has a damaged bushing the rear of the transmission counter shaft. A scored bushing may cause an interference fit between the shaft and bushing causing the shaft to want to continue to spin.

 

[WellWorn]

53 SuperH, BobM and Andy Martin, Thanks for the replies, even though for some reason they didn't show in this thread, but as separate threads - perhaps a phpbb /modern view glitch.

Been doing some thinking on the rim clamp issue while it rains outside, and it's possibly due to having a replacement rim that may be a bit smaller than 'stock', or 60 years of rust on the clamps.

Yes, I know enough to not take any material off of the curved part that contacts the rim, just the flats that hit the hub before the rim gets tight. I'm figuring on taking off about .010 on each (inside and outside clamps), making it .020 tighter all the way around, which should take up the slack without distorting the rim.

The shifter looks to have had new pivot pins put in, and seems to have very little slop front to back, but it's possible that when fixed, more was added to the front of the shift blade than the rear. It wouldn't take much to make it "off". I already did the repair to my SA, so know what's necessary, but aren't inclined to pull things apart just yet.

Glad to hear that the PTO/liftall issue is confusing to someone else too. It's running 85/140 in the tranny, which isn't all that thick at 70 degrees. Pulling things apart to check that and the shift will have to wait.

Andy, thanks for the live hyd suggestion. I'll do some cogitating on it. What did the 300 use for a reservoir? Transmission case with UTF?

 

[Andy Martin]

Bob M's concern over the wheel to axle clamp may very well be the issue. I've had them come loose and took several retorquings to get them to quiet. The rim clamps will pivot under the nut; removing material will put the center of the clamp closer to the lock nut.

 

[WellWorn]

Andy, the left side has one bolt that broke a chunk out of the axle clamp, and neither side shows any sign of movement between the axle and hub. The right wheel, however, did show some 'chuck' at the top when pushed hard by hand before it was air wrench tightened, and I could still hear some 'whuff' as it rolled down the road, so this is a priority fix so as not to further wear clamps or wheel. (Probably should have been more clear about rim/wheel.)

 

[Andy Martin]

I would replace the broken clamp, and I'm not much for replacing what works but better to replace when you have time than during a blizzard. We'll be interested to know what you have to do to get your clamps tight. The rim can get off center, check the space between rim and wheel all around. If it's not even loosen the clamps and retighten evenly to center the rim.

 

[WellWorn]

I'm not much for fixing what works either, unless it will keep a small problem from becoming a big one later. The axle clamp falls into that category. I just need the checking account to recover a bit first - had a fit of unexpected extra expenses of late, and higher demands on my time due to wet weather that do a good job of keeping me from outside (paying) work.