Sorry for the rambling on…I finally had some time to spend with my “new” 841 tonight. First off, the bendix wouldn’t kick in. So, I took the starter off and sprayed it real good with “wing ding” (WD40) and smacked the spring, lightly of course, with a hammer a couple of times. Put it back on and it fired right up. I know that I should have taken it apart and cleaned up & that will most likely come back to haunt me with really bad timing if I don't address it, but at the time, I just wanted to get it into the shop. I pulled the PTO shaft and it looked good, splines ok, snap ring in place, but it has about .375” play between the bearing and snap ring…is that normal? I looked in the hole and moved the lever and everything looked ok to me. Put the shaft back in and it engages and disengages…could it be that easy? The shaft does move in and out that .375” when you engage and disengage. Engaged, the lever is at about 12:30-1:00 o’clock, disengaged maybe 10:00 and that is pretty close to what the owner’s manual shows. The hydraulic fluid was really milky, gotta rebuild that anyways. Should I spray down the insides of the housing with carb or brake cleaner to get rid of debris and H2O, or is there another preferred method? The unit itself, I will clean in my parts cleaner and inspect thoroughly and rebuild, I ordered a kit with springs for the pump too. Many moons ago I rebuilt a lot of car/truck automatic transmissions, so it shouldn’t be too hard for me…hopefully. Is there a filter for the hydraulic fluid? Fuel is dripping from the fitting on the bottom of the tank…that needs to be fixed. I’m now thinking that I will remove all of the tin and the fuel tank. Probably, maybe, take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them clean and test. The inside of the fuel tank looks pretty good, but there is a welding rod in there. Probably someone was checking the fuel level at some point and dropped it in there. The left parking brake is frozen, I sprayed it, but haven’t messed with it since. The right side parking brake lever is missing, I can make one. The wiring is a nightmare…two solenoids, broke off key, hacked and bare/brittle wire here and there, etc…
What I want to do right now is clean it up, rewire it correctly with new harness and gauges, change all fluids and filters, both radiator hoses, belt, rebuild the hydraulics, make sure the PTO is ok and put it to work…tis the season. I bought some gauges and fuel sending unit on ebay because the ones on this site for a 12 volt don’t look like the originals. I have ordered everything else from this site…they do provide the forums, which has helped me for many a year. One thing that I can’t find though is the cam follower pin or even a part number for it. I have seen some people just turn them over, I wouldn’t do that. If it is worn and I had to reuse it, I would weld it up and turn back down on the lathe. If that turns out to be the case, should I temper it after turning or leave it as is? I would much rather just replace it with the correct new part.
Any advice and ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’m not a big ego type of guy, you’re not going to P me off or hurt my feelings…so let it fly…
My previous posts about this tractor can be found in the two links below.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1115162&highlight=
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1116700&highlight=
Thanks!!!
DD
What I want to do right now is clean it up, rewire it correctly with new harness and gauges, change all fluids and filters, both radiator hoses, belt, rebuild the hydraulics, make sure the PTO is ok and put it to work…tis the season. I bought some gauges and fuel sending unit on ebay because the ones on this site for a 12 volt don’t look like the originals. I have ordered everything else from this site…they do provide the forums, which has helped me for many a year. One thing that I can’t find though is the cam follower pin or even a part number for it. I have seen some people just turn them over, I wouldn’t do that. If it is worn and I had to reuse it, I would weld it up and turn back down on the lathe. If that turns out to be the case, should I temper it after turning or leave it as is? I would much rather just replace it with the correct new part.
Any advice and ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’m not a big ego type of guy, you’re not going to P me off or hurt my feelings…so let it fly…
My previous posts about this tractor can be found in the two links below.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1115162&highlight=
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1116700&highlight=
Thanks!!!
DD