NH Super 66--still stumped

[Dave41A]

Good afternoon. I few weeks back I posted looking for some help on my NH Super 66 baler. I am still stumped.

The problem is that the knotter shaft is not making a complete revolution. I have attached a video of the knotter arm when the baler is under power from its Wisconsin TFD. Just before the video starts, I have pulled the yoke rod (seen coming up from the lower right of the video) rearward (to the right in the video) until it seems to lock into a detent--note it is just "past center." Then, I trip the knotter clutch, and the knotter arm makes about a 350 degree revolution--not a full 360. This is a problem because now the yoke rod is not "past center," and hence creates the risk that the weight of the yoke itself will tend to work down against the needle brake and put the needles in the chamber, triggering the safety stop. I have had some spectacular failures because of this.

If you watch the video, notice how the arm pulses--"clack, clack, clack"--like it wants to go the last inch or so, but will not.

I know it is hay season for nearly everyone else, so I appreciate the time to respond. Any insight is appreciated. Meanwhile, it's fix-baler season for me, all while it hope it doesn't rain.

My apologies if the video displays rotated 90 degrees. I tried to edit but am not sure it worked.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
[video play=false:654c4848f0]https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo49676.mov[/video:654c4848f0]

 

[Hayfarmer]

Not familiar with the 66 but on my 282 there is a knotter stop adjustment. That may be the problem if it isn't going far enough to bring the needles home. should be in operator manual

 

[Dave41A]

Thanks. The 66 has a knotter stop adjustment, but it only adjusts for how much of the pawl contacts the stop. I wish it would adjust like you describe, but it doesn't. Thanks, Dave

 

[Bret4207]

I think there are keys that drive everything in there, could be one is sheared.

 

[Dave41A]

Thank you. Yes, both the knotter clutch and knotter arm are keyed to the knotter shaft. I have had both apart and the woodruff keys are in good condition. The keyways are in line with each other, so it does not appear the shaft is twisted or bent. Thanks again, Dave

 

[chuck2015]

(quoted from post at 14:49:26 07/06/20) Good afternoon. I few weeks back I posted looking for some help on my NH Super 66 baler. I am still stumped.

The problem is that the knotter shaft is not making a complete revolution. I have attached a video of the knotter arm when the baler is under power from its Wisconsin TFD. Just before the video starts, I have pulled the yoke rod (seen coming up from the lower right of the video) rearward (to the right in the video) until it seems to lock into a detent--note it is just "past center." Then, I trip the knotter clutch, and the knotter arm makes about a 350 degree revolution--not a full 360. This is a problem because now the yoke rod is not "past center," and hence creates the risk that the weight of the yoke itself will tend to work down against the needle brake and put the needles in the chamber, triggering the safety stop. I have had some spectacular failures because of this.

If you watch the video, notice how the arm pulses--"clack, clack, clack"--like it wants to go the last inch or so, but will not.

I know it is hay season for nearly everyone else, so I appreciate the time to respond. Any insight is appreciated. Meanwhile, it's fix-baler season for me, all while it hope it doesn't rain.

My apologies if the video displays rotated 90 degrees. I tried to edit but am not sure it worked.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
[video play=false:451115102e]https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo49676.mov[/video:451115102e]

Is it possible that some chains have stretched and are too long to do the job?

 

[Farrview]

The knotter shaft has twisted after nearly seventy years of baling.
All it takes is to have the last keyway to be off slightly.
I had the same problem on my super 66 baler and when I replaced the shaft the knotter rotated all 360 degrees and has worked perfectly since

 

[Dave41A]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed. The good news is that the baler is working again. 257 bales today and no broken shear bolts. The bad news is that I don't know exactly what I did to fix it. Probably the best suggestion was that the baler has been working for 70 years and is well worn. The knotter clutch had a lot of slop in the rivets that hold the pawl and pawl roller in place. I drilled these out and replaced with new 3/8 bolts drilled and tapped for countersunk allen head screws. I wanted to put a bronze bushing in the roller but it is hardened steel and I could not touch it with a drill bit.

I also adjusted the yoke rod. The clevis on the end was just a touch too long, and the yoke was hitting the bottom of the bale chamber just a bit. Notice the rod & arm just won't straighten out.

The yoke would hit just as the worn out clutch was reaching its release. So the extra resistance of the yoke hitting the bale chamber at just the same time as the worn-out clutch was releasing a little bit too early was enough to not make it finish the cycle. Then the yoke would slowly slip back with every jiggle and jolt and trip the safety stop. The first time it happened the safety stop spring was missing and the plunger broke both needles. After adjustment, the needle arm and yoke rod form a straight line when the needles are home.

The right hand knotter misses every now and then, but I think I can tune out that problem. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I have seen this same question posted elsewhere about a 14T and other balers. It turned out to be "all of the above." Thanks again, Dave