no Hydraulics

[gleggans]

not sure what the tractor is( I know) I think it is a 404 or 440 it is a late 60s model 4cylinder international.nunber on plate is unreadable .The tractor runs great and everything worked it has a knob you can turn to send the hydraulics to a remote this is where my issues started. it had a single control valve .well I put an end loader on it and tee'd the in and out lines to another single control valve hooked up one to the boom and one to the bucket. it worked weird like I had to move the 3pt hitch lever to get the bucket to work or the boom and they only worked one direction .any way after a could hours now the hydrualics wont work.If I go out and start the tractor they work for about 3-4 minutes the everything qiuts working. any help is as always appriciated. the 3point hitch doesnt work either .I have tried to purge the air and I get fluid everywhere at all the connections. Not sure where to check or what book to buy anyone know for sure what the tractor even is?

 

[mkirsch]

Well, first off it is VERY IMPORTANT to figure out what tractor you have. "I have a tractor and it's broke..." Nobody can really help you without more information. Pictures, serial tags, casting numbers... anything you can provide to help identify the tractor.

You said you put TEEs in some hydraulic lines to attach the loader...

You can't just put TEEs into lines and expect it to work correctly.

The tractor has an "open center" hydraulic system, which means that the hydraulic fluid just circulates when you're not operating the remote or 3pt hitch. The hydraulic valves are "open" when they are "centered," meaning the oil just runs straight through them when you aren't doing anything.

Open center hydraulic systems only work if there is one path for the pressurized fluid to follow from the pump to the reservoir.

When you TEE off the lines and add a valve for the loader, you add a SECOND path for the fluid to take. The fluid will take the path of least resistance back to the reservoir.

The simplest solution is to take the TEEs out. Connect the IN port for your loader valve to one port of the tractor's built-in hydraulic remote. Connect the OUT port for your loader valve to the other port of the tractor's built-in remote. Disable the 3pt hitch and enable the remote. Tie the remote lever back (or ahead) and operate the loader. If the loader operates backwards, just swap the hoses, or tie the tractor's remote lever in the other direction.

 

[CNKS]

No such thing as a 440. Look up the 404 in the tractor photos to your left. 404 Farmall is a row crop. International 404 is a utility. If it is a utility, it could also be a 424 or 444. You might try 454 and 464 if a utility. 504 and 544 can be either Farmall or International.

 

[charles todd]

Knowing what tractor you have is 1st priority. Understanding hydraulics is 2nd. Applying hydraulic knowledge to the tractor you have is 3rd.

Now we have that understood. Figure out what tractor you have. Next submit pictures of tractor and how you "tee'ed" the lines into your valve bank for the loader. Also include a picture of the valve.

Normally you need a power beyond valve for an open center hydraulic system and it is inline, not "tee'ed" in. I have done this before and have generic pictures to help.

Pictures or more information will help us help you.

CT