Oliver OC 46

[crowsnest2002]

Please be aware of this folks.
Looks like tractor supply is changing their oil. I picked this up the other day by mistake and wasn't paying attention. It looks like they are replacing the SAE 90 gl 1 with ISO 90 gl 1. Luckily one of the other tractor supplies nearby (like dollar stores) had an SAE 90 gl 1 in stock.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Well, lesson learned on an original starter that was for a 6v system that was now on a 12v system. Don't hold the starter button down too long! I burned it up. I was looking for new production and found one through olivercrawlers.com . I received it on Friday, bolted it on yesterday and it worked like a charm.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Just sharing the oliver in its semi permanent location.

 

[crowsnest2002]

I had to weld another piece of angle on the hitch, the previous holes tore out.

 

[crowsnest2002]

I forgot to add, when pushing down hill temp gauge goes up to red. Not instantly, I usually have to stop, let it cool for a few seconds. I purchased a new thermostat and engine side coolant drain plate from Zimmerman's. Next time its home I'll do a flush to see if it helps.
Also temp gauge does not go up on level ground or going uphill.

The starter is magnificent and I really recommend it to anyone needing a starter for the 4 cylinder hg/oc3/oc4 1st year.

 

[rrlund]

You'll have to get your hands on the newest edition of Hart Parr Oliver Collectors magazine. The feature is the OC4 and 46. Cover to cover, articles and stories about them.

 

[crowsnest2002]

You'll have to get your hands on the newest edition of Hart Parr Oliver Collectors magazine. The feature is the OC4 and 46. Cover to cover, articles and stories about them.

Know anyone willing to sell it? Id like to have it and would trade something for it. Ive got a nice oc4 advertisement cardboard flyer.

 

[rrlund]

Know anyone willing to sell it? Id like to have it and would trade something for it. Ive got a nice oc4 advertisement cardboard flyer.

Email [email protected]. Tell him what you have and see if you can get a copy.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Have had a chance to get the oc 46 out and stretch its legs. Good opportunity for issues to surface. While working the machine a few things came to light.
1. Facing downhill while pushing with load, temp gauge goes up to red. I let it cool and continue.
2 . Small amount of gray droplets were observed on oil dip stick.

So this weekend, ill bring the machine back home and do all the following, or at least start.
1.Radiator flush, engine coolant flush and purge.
2. Remove thermostat
3. Oil change to see how much water is really in it. (From previous oil change it wouldnt hurt, hopefully got some more crud out)
4. Loosen all head bolts, apply Indian head sealer on bolts, and tighten per manual spec. (Pray for easy bolt removal that may be some of the issue, needing re-torqued)
5. Refill coolant and see what happens.

Im hoping to avoid new head gasket, but this is more exploration to see what next step is.

 

[rrlund]

Have had a chance to get the oc 46 out and stretch its legs. Good opportunity for issues to surface. While working the machine a few things came to light.
1. Facing downhill while pushing with load, temp gauge goes up to red. I let it cool and continue.
2 . Small amount of gray droplets were observed on oil dip stick.

So this weekend, ill bring the machine back home and do all the following, or at least start.
1.Radiator flush, engine coolant flush and purge.
2. Remove thermostat
3. Oil change to see how much water is really in it. (From previous oil change it wouldnt hurt, hopefully got some more crud out)
4. Loosen all head bolts, apply Indian head sealer on bolts, and tighten per manual spec. (Pray for easy bolt removal that may be some of the issue, needing re-torqued)
5. Refill coolant and see what happens.

Im hoping to avoid new head gasket, but this is more exploration to see what next step is.

I don't know that I'd take out the thermostat. They're in there for a reason. I'm not familiar with the engine in it, but if it's a bypass water pump, the coolant won't circulate through the block at all without a thermostat.

 

[crowsnest2002]

I don't know that I'd take out the thermostat. They're in there for a reason. I'm not familiar with the engine in it, but if it's a bypass water pump, the coolant won't circulate through the block at all without a thermostat.

I did some communication with Harold I believe it was over in Ephrata, PA and he mentioned trying it without the thermostat. I also talked to another mechanic and he was the one to mention re-torquing the head bolts and the sealant.

 

[Ericp351]

Hello again. Few tidbits. The I, or 4 cyl engines do not run hot. Your radiatior is big enough for a 289 mustang. Head gasket must be sound. These have the water pumps . After that check, 1 at time, that not lean and that time ain,t retarded. With heavy work you will heat the clutch before motor! I torque the copper asbestos O.e.m head gaskets 3 times. The 3-8 bolts are reusable, but I retired mine after 50 years. USA made grade 8s should be a OK if you need any. Enjoy, rock on. Post script. If somebody can copy or computer send a copy of that magazine article, without endangering the Republic, i,d appreciate same.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Well, did a flush of the collant system today. Got a good bit of crap out of both sides, radiator / engine. Installed drain plate from Zimmermans. Had to take the angle grinder to the one edge. It was coming in contact with a lip on the engine and caused it not to seal. Also found a rubber pipe plug previous owner used on lower engine side. Thought that was creative lol. Also took the thermostat out completely. Didn't even hardly read on temp gauge. I ran it up and down the shared alley, and let it sit at higher rpm and still didn't hardly register. I need to do an oil change yet, check all fluids and get it back to work and evaluate.

 

[crowsnest2002]

You guys know what I dislike about filling fluids on this machine. The final drives. Wala milk jug handle funnel. Perfect angle even on a down hill slope slightly. Handle fits in the hole just right. Plus I can throw it away and have another in a few days. 1/2 gallon jug would even be better i think.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Drained the oil, and no water or coolant substances. Ive talked to a mechanic that i know at work and he has alot of prior tractor maintenance experience from working at John deere many moons ago. He worked with some old timers while there and was fortunate to get some experience from them. He also worked on dozers alot. Some points he made.
1. Back in the day folks used to put a little oil in coolant because of the pump and cardboard gaskets and such.
2. It was written in the manual to check oil constantly because tolerances weren't that great as they are now.
3. Its old, it burns oil and has some leaks. It is what it is and keep it topped off constantly.

So now I have to go work it some more and see how the temp goes with the thermostat removed, and system flushed. Please enjoy this picture of what the oil looked like after 9 ish hours of run time from 2 different angles.

 

[560Dennis]

I think the engine runs better with thermostat in the engine to get the temperature up to were the air temperature vaporizer the fuel in the intake .

 

[crowsnest2002]

I think the engine runs better with thermostat in the engine to get the temperature up to were the air temperature vaporizer the fuel in the intake .

I am going to give it a shot, but I do have a new thermostat on hand to throw in it. Depending on how it goes with cutting a tooth bar to put on it i might drain coolant and do it. I noticed while running it, lower throttle caused it to almost shut off (too low idle). That was never an issue before when it got to temp.

 

[560Dennis]

Drained the oil, and no water or coolant substances. Ive talked to a mechanic that i know at work and he has alot of prior tractor maintenance experience from working at John deere many moons ago. He worked with some old timers while there and was fortunate to get some experience from them. He also worked on dozers alot. Some points he made.
1. Back in the day folks used to put a little oil in coolant because of the pump and cardboard gaskets and such.
2. It was written in the manual to check oil constantly because tolerances weren't that great as they are now.
3. Its old, it burns oil and has some leaks. It is what it is and keep it topped off constantly.

So now I have to go work it some more and see how the temp goes with the thermostat removed, and system flushed. Please enjoy this picture of what the oil looked like after 9 ish hours of run time from 2 different angles.

I disagree with the putting little oil in the coolant system. My opinion antifreeze has all the additional additives to maintain the coolant protection. Have engines that have not run in 25 years ,they not issues with coolant systems.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Yes, I agree as well. He said that is what they used to do. I have definitely not added any. Im hoping next flush reveals a non oil drain. That will be a true tell tale as to what is going on. This was the first complete fluid change after working it for 9ish or so hours. Unfortunately, I didn't do a coolant flush before working it last time because it was good with coolant. I guess lesson learned on my part to get a good baseline. That is the game we play with getting used machines though. We really dont know the quirks until we get some seat time.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Well got the tooth bar cut down and rewelded.