Oliver OC 46

[crowsnest2002]

I do the side without the grease zero so I can pump grease into the assembly and watch the grease come out on zero side. Once again you will have to install zero, and then remove it when finished. I like to do this because its easier than laying on the ground and doing it, and I can make sure it oozes between shaft and bushing.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Install seal as before, remove zerk. Clean up bolts and area roller assembly will go onto track frame. Put dush shield and shaft support back on assembly. At this point it doesn't hurt to run a wire brush over it real quick to clean the threads.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Reinstall roller, out lock washers back on, and nuts, and tighten down. Then reinstall button head grease zerk.

 

[crowsnest2002]

A tool ive been using quite often that is really needed is a good digging iron. Very helpful in assisting things to line up. This whole process took about 2 hours with trying to take photos, wipping hands from grease while doing so, and having the shaft supports not wanting to seperate from track frame. *be patient with that, you do not want to break the bolts inside track frame!*

 

[crowsnest2002]

Decided to work on that last roller today. Wow, all was going well. Assembly came off tracks easily. Had to replace the bushings, but not too bad. The bushings have a seam. If you follow along it with a screwdriver, it will split the bushing. Once its split, hit the screwdriver on the bushing and fold it over along the seam. Then I get to final part of assembling the zerk on and the threads on the shaft are different than button head zerk. I called oliver cletrac out of ephrata, pa and apparently good used shafts which I ordered have a 1/2" fine thread. New production shafts are already 1/2" coarse thread. He suggested to rethread the button head zerk to 1/2" fine thread. See attached photo of bushing i took out, seal number for reference, and thread difference.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Forgot to mention, while digging out grease turds from roller assembly I found strips of metal.

 

[560Dennis]

Keep up the good work !

 

[Jim.ME]

Decided to work on that last roller today. Wow, all was going well. Assembly came off tracks easily. Had to replace the bushings, but not too bad. The bushings have a seam. If you follow along it with a screwdriver, it will split the bushing. Once its split, hit the screwdriver on the bushing and fold it over along the seam. Then I get to final part of assembling the zerk on and the threads on the shaft are different than button head zerk. I called oliver cletrac out of ephrata, pa and apparently good used shafts which I ordered have a 1/2" fine thread. New production shafts are already 1/2" coarse thread. He suggested to rethread the button head zerk to 1/2" fine thread. See attached photo of bushing i took out, seal number for reference, and thread difference.

That button head fitting is 1/4" NPT I believe. I would try tapping the shaft to 1/4NPT, rather than trying to re-thread a grease fitting,

Tap drill for 1/4 NPT is 7/16 (or 28/64). Tap drill for 1/2-20 NF is 29/64.

 

[Ericp351]

Small matter to get correct button heads, or 1.8 npt and readillitly avilable adapter. Try McMaster carr,MSc, granger, or the coffee can by your work bench.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Rollers complete. Also to note, the last one I took apart, im pretty sure the seal was in backwards with the way it seperated on the top. Please see attached photo of die and rethreaded button head grease zerk.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Next is the idler assembly. What is the proper way to take this apart? See photo with numbers for ease of explanation. Im kind of a little worried about the spring tension. Or is a combination of releasing 1 & 3 to completely let off the spring tension? Any help on this will be appreciated.

 

[crowsnest2002]

That button head fitting is 1/4" NPT I believe. I would try tapping the shaft to 1/4NPT, rather than trying to re-thread a grease fitting,

Tap drill for 1/4 NPT is 7/16 (or 28/64). Tap drill for 1/2-20 NF is 29/64.

I dont have a tap and die set, rethreading the grease fitting was the easiest and cheapest solution. Local hardware store had what I needed.

 

[Ericp351]

Next is the idler assembly. What is the proper way to take this apart? See photo with numbers for ease of explanation. Im kind of a little worried about the spring tension. Or is a combination of releasing 1 & 3 to completely let off the spring tension? Any help on this will be appreciated.

Think it a big idler. You will need a puller, plate kind, to pull fiwd spring knuckle things. Back off adjusters. You won't get bit.

 

[crowsnest2002]

All right, I sat here annoyed about this and thought hey you have a manual you idiot.

 

[crowsnest2002]

So I got my work light and headed outside. Let's just say, those nut clamp rod rear were tight. I had to use the digging iron as reverse force. The recoil spring assemblies did not want to play well so I had to mount it to the track frame to get a tight enough grip. Next I had to use a set of puller I got from harbor freight to deal with my left pinion gear bearing previously. Scared the shaft bolt face, but it doesn't really matter.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Also tonight's hero! This crescent wrench has been with me for awhile. I have no idea where I picked it up, but it took alot of force most would have folded under. Anyway, manufactured In Japan, maybe from samari swords? Don't know.... if you see one at a flea market, pick it up.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Finally got some time to tear the idler apart today. More black grease, and a few other colors thrown in. Once you get the idler apart from the assembly, it is literally the same as the rollers. This time I was out of seals, called oliver cletrac in ephrata, pa. Got Harold. Ordered another set. Their prices are still better than going through Autozone, Napa, or Federated. Even with shipping. (Im about 1.5 hrs away)

 

[560Dennis]

Keep up the good work on the oc46 , will be a rewarding experience .

 

[crowsnest2002]

Keep up the good work on the oc46 , will be a rewarding experience .

I think out of the whole experience, I would say I am becoming very familiar with this machine.

 

[560Dennis]

I dont have a tap and die set, rethreading the grease fitting was the easiest and cheapest solution. Local hardware store had what I needed.

If you don’t do much work needing tap and dies just keep buying as needed . But if things change, get a good set with ratchet handles ,about 200 + these days.
I usally tap all threaded holes with four flute taps I have gathered up. This gives me confidence the I’m not bottomed out on rust crusted thread giving a false torque at assembly.
Your doing good keep the photos and comments coming .