OT trailer floor

[BhB]

This is off topic but I haul my tractor on the trailer so I guess it is related. I need to replace the floor on my tractor/car hauling trailer. What would be the best wood to use? The trailer lives outside in the Ohio weather.
Thank you, Bill

 

[Dave from MN]

I have always been told rough cut white oak, and use every year douse it with a wood preservative oil.

 

[keh]

White oak. This subject was discussed over on the tractor transporting forum.

Reason for white oak is that it is one of the hardest US woods. It is also decay resistant and will shed water because of the way the pores in the wood run. Earlier settlers used white to split roofing shingles from. Also barrels were made from white oak. Whiskey barrels still are to the best of my knowledge.
Other hard woods such as Hickory are not decay resistant.


KEH

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have a trailer with walmazed wood that is as good as the day I put it on about six years ago.

 

[Bill in Colo]

(Not wood ) I have two trailers and a stock truck with a product call Ruf Tec made from recycled tires and plactic. Did one trailer and the truck myself. My Gooseneck Brand trailer came from factory with it installed.
Product comes in lengths from 8 to 20 ft and is sized as a nominal 2x8 standard or tongue and gruve.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Woods are different perhaps in different areas. Here, white oak is prefered and RED elm is also top of the list. Many folks confuse red oak and white oak as they both are hard. However red oak must not become damp in it's type of use because it will rot.

 

[M Nut]

White Oak.

 

[Bob Kerr]

White oak all the way! Get wood that doesn"t have any sap wood on the edges. It is considered a boat building wood and is tough stuff! I would not use rough cut as it leaves low spots for water to collect and will let fungus get started. As for water proofing, Mopping it down with used motor oil mixed with kerosene to thin it works exellent, and you get a new supply everytime you change oil in something.Also put some in an old sprayer with some kero to thin it and spray the underside. Main thing is to not let fungus get started in the wood. If you are worried about skidding on the oil just toss sand over it afterwards. The only drawback is if it gets wet with the oil on it, it will get slick! the first year or two put the oil on twice a year and after that once a year should be good if you oil it in the fall when you are done for the winter. If you do all that the wood might outlast the trailer!

 

[msb]

Or Cypress if you can find it. Cypress was used in flooring individual hog houses years ago because it stood up well to sow urine.It just wouldn't rot. Some of the newer synthetics might also be a good choice. Aluminum is another thought. Got a scrap yard nearby?

 

[big jt]

What's RufTec and where can I get info about it?

I have the same project looming.

jt

 

[Frontranger]

I am looking at a similar project here in NE Colorado, and have been doin" much investigation. Harder by far and away for trailer floors are what the commercial trailer builders use short of steel or aluminium. Bear in mind they are always on the lookout for less expensive equivalent alternatives. It is an imported hardwood from the tropical climates (they say it is not an endangered species, but I'm not certain of that), "apitong or keriung," in use for many years here across the USA. I may not be spelling that quite right, but this stuff is available here from some of the trailer rebuilder supply houses. Google "apitong trailer flooring." The native hardwoods (oaks, maples, etc.) no doubt will work (but will require more maintence), but this apitong is much more dense and water repellent and harder (read that as heavy in weight too).
Wood strength is measured in compression (lengthwise as if the weight were standing on the end of a vertical board) and in tension (as if the board were laying horizontally). Cypress is in the ball park for durability/weather resistance/rot resistant and strength. Apitong has them all beat for the horizontal strength. Some users gritch that it is quite slippery too, left totally untreated.
Only problem seems to be this is somewhat of a seasonal item for the trailer rebuilder industry, and they seem to replenish their stock in the spring/early summer and longer lengths are somewhat more diffucult to come by at present. At least that what the locals tell me here. 1&3/8" X 7" width shiplap apitong is going here for I think around $4.70 a running foot, more or less depending on your proximity to major trailer manufactuing towns. The supply places carry this in various thickness from 3/4" to full 2". Very tough, very heavy, and very heavy duty AND hard to cut, but quite common in the trailer manufacturer world. A "best choice" for strength and durability if you don't have to go to too much trouble to get it. I have found some smaller farm impliment builders who have smaller inventories, often just a few lengths on hand for repairs.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The home-built trailer I bought has rough sawed white oak. The low spots can hold moisture and lead to problems. However, with mine I had very few low spots and was able to manage them by drilling a few small drain holes here and there. I like the "non-slip" surface of rough sawed lumber for decking.

Glenn F.

 

[Leland]

I just have 2x12 yellow pine on my trailer floor thats about 10 years old ,just put linseed oil on it yearly and it will hold up fine and my trailer sits outside year around .

 

[Anonymous-0]

I have a gooseneck trailer that is now 10 years old that I use to haul construction materials. It has a treated yellow pine deck and has not had one problem. I have sprayed it once with Thompson deck treatment about 5 years ago. It's probably good for at least another 10 years. If you can go to a barn builder you can still buy cca .40 treated lumber - that is better then the new "acq" stuff, especially acq .15. Don't go over board with heavy lumber - you'll regret it every time you hitch up.

 

[Lee in Iowa]

They say the new kind of green treated is corrosive to mild steel. I don't know anything about it but I've noticed they have stainless fasteners for decks at HD, Lowes, etc. So if you are going to use green treated you might want to look for the old CCA stuff. Lee

 

[Texasmark]

I have a 16' tandem that I have had for near 30 years. Initial wood was 2x10 pine and I would douse it with linseed oil cut half with turpentine to act as a vehicle to get it into the pores of the wood, occasionally. Lasted a long time.

Then several years ago I redid it with treated 2x6 pine from Home depot. More linseed oil.

Still in great shape and the narrower wood was a lot cheaper and works just as well.

Never used white oak, have no access to it, but I know about whiskey barrels, and their contents. Grin

Mark