OT: welding question. Steering gear shaft, Yanmar 186D

[Doug in Illinois]

I messed up last week while mowing too fast in heavy wet grass, the rear grooming mower had too much weight off the front tires. Hit a tree stump with the left front tire.

It transferred the shock down to the steering box, and snapped the shaft off basically right behind the arm that attaches to it. Not a completely straight break, but still have 1/2 to 3/4 inch of shaft sticking out of the box.

My 110 volt Solar 2150 with .030 flux core wire isn't up to this job, but I wondered if a welding shop is capable. Kind of hate to spend the $160 plus (with shipping) for a new shaft if this one can be welded back together. I know I am going to have some (of my own) labor in this job to take the tractor apart, meaning dash, hood, fuel tank, then disassemble the steering box. Hoye Tractor video shows how to do it.

I am figuring about 4 hours by the time all is apart, cleaned up, and back together. Just wonder if a professional welded shaft will hold. DOUG

 

[barnE]

Can you put the shaft in a lathe to weld it straight. Did a crankshaft in a compressor like that. Lasted over 15 years. Dave

 

[Doug in Illinois]

If you are asking if I can put the shaft in a lathe and weld it myself, no. Don't have a lathe.

The machine shop / welder I am thinking about taking it to is in Bushnell, IL. They do have a lathe and MIG, TIG, and stick. I have only used them once. My preferred blacksmith (welder) passed away. DOUG

 

[Anonymous-0]

It can most likely be welded but might cost almost as much as a new shaft, especially if it needs to be machined and/or hardened after welding. Sometimes it's better to just get new parts. Where I'm at welding shops are about $85/hr. to over $100/hr.

 

[JDseller]

Think how far that $160 is going to go when you have to tear it down the second time to replace it after it breaks again???? If the original broke, that had zero weld weakness in it, how do you think that a welded part is going to last long??? That shaft is heat treated and when you weld it it will either bend or break right where the weld is.

 

[Lanse]

Sorry about your luck...

If someone brought that to me, I would grind a bevel all the way around it, and try to tig weld it in a vise. There would be no guarantees about its strength, as it'd never be "right" tho, and I for one, would recommend you just buy a new one.

 

[souNdguy]

if it was a wormshaft, like between the steering wheel and the steering gears.. I'd weld it no problem..my ford 8n has a welded wormshaft, break is abouve the upper thrust bearing in the open steering column tube area.. easy fix.. but sounds like you broke a sector shaft.. as witht he others.. you might get away with it.. but probably best to get a new one.. or salvage.

soundguy

 

[dr sportster]

Sleeve with two holes -place over shaft- plug weld the holes weld around the ends of sleeve. Better than new.

 

[souNdguy]

except that if this is the sector arm, it passes thru a bushing and seal on the steering box and has a ( probably) splined end for the sector arm. most I see there just isn't much of the arm visible outside the steering box and socket in the sector arm..

a pic would help.

I know my 1700 didn't have much visible for sleeving...

 

[ss55]

If it broke that easily I'd install a new shaft and then look into repairing the old one to keep as a spare.

The sleeve repair is a good idea, it will keep the shaft straighter. Only tack weld at the ends of the sleeve though, they will already be a stress concentration without any welds. Weld through the holes in the sleeve instead.

If you need to dis-assemble the old shaft and sleeve to install it, could you put drill points into the old shaft or grind flats on the old shaft and use bolts/set screws through the sleeve to hold the shaft together instead of welding it?

Good luck.

 

[Doug in Illinois]

Just an update on this:

Since the horizontal shaft is the broken one, did NOT have to pull the whole steering box apart. Just three bolts and it slid right out.

Had to remove a couple covers to verify if "old" or "new" style steering box. Serial number is no help, they interchanged either one on the assembly line for a lot of different models.

At least I don't have to pull the hood and fuel tank.

Going to have to order a new shaft. There is a crack in the splines that the shop I took it to saw almost instantly. He said he would give it a try, but the crack spread as soon he started the arc.

It does fit a lot of models. F13, F165D, 122, 126, 135,135D, 140, 142, 146, 147, 186, 186D, 1300 RED, 1301, 1401, 1502, 1510, 1602. Also possibly 155, 155D, 165, and 165D, but those are listed as this number as a replacement for them.

Will order a new shaft in the next few days unless I can find a good used one. DOUG