Please help a newb

[ChadLeonard]

Hi all, I recently aquired a MF 135. It has the Perkins diesel and honestly this thing fires quicker than any new vehicle I've ever owned. Now the tractor is old and has never been shown any restorative love...... I plan to change that soon. The price was right so if I end up with 3k into it I am still coming out ahead. I got the tractor, a tiller, a post hole auger, a box blade and a bush hog for free. The tractor had been sitting for 10 years, I spun the motor by hand, lubed cylinders etc.... I bought a battery and it fired right up, did an oil change, new fuel filters, brought it home. Made 3 passes in my little garden with the tiller mowed a couple of acres and that is about it... It needs tires, fenders, a seat some lights, nothing major really in my opinion.... Could use a clutch and some brakes but I plan to split it and sand and paint everything any way... So the serial number took me forever to find.... I was wondering if someone could help me decipher it as I can't find any info on line....

Serial number is SDW641011887

Thank you all in advance, I am sure the tractor is all original, biggest issue I've had is trying to find a replacement air box but after further investigation I believe it is all there... (thought the lid was missing, has a vented top???)

This post was edited by ChadLeonard on 11/12/2023 at 06:25 am.

 

[Harry in Ky]

So what about the serial number do you need to decipher? According to Tractordata that serial number would have been assigned in 1965.

 

[ChadLeonard]

What does the SDW mean? I am guessing the first 2 numbers after are the year it was built 64? but all of the other numbers mean something as well right like tire size etc?

 

[brooktre]

S for Normal width
D for Standard Diesel UK models
W Multipower Trans


Serial number prefixes letter
Chassis
S for Normal width
V for vineyard
J for Industrial C for High clearance
U Utility
ENGINE
G for gasoline
H for high altitude
D for Standard Diesel UK models
K for TVO
L for Lamp Oil
N for Perkins Diesel
D Direct injection US models
B for LPG

Clutch & Transmission
F for Single M for Dual
Y diff lock
W Multipower Trans

 

[ChadLeonard]

Awesome information, Thank you very, very much. I guess I should probably get some pics of this thing in the daylight tomorrow and share. I believe it is worth saving, as I said lots of surface rust but it functions well for probably not having any real service in years.... It was used to mow here and there but that is about it. I'm not sure of hours either but it is very strong.

 

[Tim in New York]

Congrats - you have what I think is about the best small tractor made in that time frame. And it runs when it came home! Given that, you can work on improving it little by little. We had a TO35 diesel when I was young. It was all beat to heck and worn out, but still was a great little tractor for firewood. We could run it all weekend in the woods on 5 gallons of fuel and still have some left.

Tim

 

[ChadLeonard]

Hey Tim, I have no idea why I like this thing so much but I do. My Grandfather used to restor old JD's A's, B's, H's all kinds. I figured if this thing has made it 60 years give or take and it has no real work to do here. I live on a half acre, it should live a lot longer freshened up and kept in the garage. Maybe I'll win the lottery one day and get that large property I want or maybe the one of the kids may eventually have a use for it...I appreciate your response and it definitely has plenty of power for anything I would ever want to do. Only downside I see is the way the hydraulics work, the 2 stage clutch is pretty wore so it seems, I wish they were live and it had power steering but I can definitely live with it....

 

[Tim in New York]

Those tires should go a long time yet as long as they are OK in the sidewalls. The hood and grille look good, fenders are shot. You should be able to eventually find a replacement set. If you are patient, you can do a decent paint job with brushes and good quality paint. I don't know for sure, but I would think your hydraulics should be live. PTO I think was an option for live. Lack of PS should not be too problematic - its been almost 50 yrs, but I seem to recall that our TO35 was easy to steer, even in the woods, without it. There are guys here that know these tractors inside and out, so they should be able to help you with just about every question you have.

Tim

 

[ChadLeonard]

I plan to replace them all after a paint job. I am not much of a painter and would like to use something that would last. I understand the basics and plan to split it soon for brakes and a clutch as well as address other minor issues. I have priced the sheet metal, rubber, etc. and I have actually purchased some stuff already. I would like someone to recommend a paint (I do have spray guns, etc.) This will all happen through this winter, by spring I hope to be complete. It does appear to be a bunch of rust removal though.....

 

[jtxn]

(quoted from post at 16:51:20 11/16/23) I plan to replace them all after a paint job. I am not much of a painter and would like to use something that would last. I understand the basics and plan to split it soon for brakes and a clutch as well as address other minor issues. I have priced the sheet metal, rubber, etc. and I have actually purchased some stuff already. I would like someone to recommend a paint (I do have spray guns, etc.) This will all happen through this winter, by spring I hope to be complete. It does appear to be a bunch of rust removal though.....

I have a similar serial number and mine is a 1964. Check under the tractor, front of oil pan,there should be a date stamped I the casting which is the date the engine was made.

A couple ways to tell your tractor is an early model in the US:

fuel tank that is 6" deep instead of 9" deep. Replacement fuel sender must be purchased from agco because it s adjustable. I have not been able to find a replacement tank.
Front wheel hubs have no races/bearings like later models. Hubs look different than later models.
Air hose is nearly impossible to find
radiator size also nearly impossible to find.

Before ordering parts you should look online in the agco parts book. Before ordering a clutch split it and make sure you order the right one. I m doing my clutch right now and had a hard time guessing which kit to get.

Do the trans input shaft seals while you re doing the clutch. Might as well do the rear main while you re in the area. Caveat here is if you have multi power the steering box has to be removed to split the gearbox from the rear end.

Buddy bears shed has a YouTube series that turns every bolt on a 135.

Good luck

 

[ChadLeonard]

Thank you greatly for the advice. I am running a little behind on the entire project, it wont be rushed as I really have no use for it other than tilling my garden. I do plan to repaint the entire tracto as well so it may be a many months project. I did order the books for it and I did write down all of the stampings, the one on the axle housing I may not have wrote down correctly but it was not a great stamp. Hopefully after a little cleanup I will be able to see it better. My eyes aren't what they used to be.