Pole shed tips

[redtom]

Never been a fan of slab on grade. Don't know if they used any sand, gravel, or compaction under the slab. Be cracked and out of level around here in KS after a winter or two. Hope they don't scrimp on everything else to put in expensive posts.

I assume you're referring to the pic i shared. Help me understand what slab on grade means. And here in michigan where I am all cement is poured on compacted sand or gravel. What else would one pour it on.

 

[wh]

Lots of shimming on power poles to get walls plumb.

Should not be. Just plumb out side edge and which ever edge you choose 90 degrees from outside edge. Have several building here with power poles and no problem to plumb.

 

[joeysmith]

Never been a fan of slab on grade. Don't know if they used any sand, gravel, or compaction under the slab. Be cracked and out of level around here in KS after a winter or two. Hope they don't scrimp on everything else to put in expensive posts.

That's not a slab style barn

 

[bc]

I assume you're referring to the pic i shared. Help me understand what slab on grade means. And here in michigan where I am all cement is poured on compacted sand or gravel. What else would one pour it on.

I don't see any sand or gravel around but maybe they do. I call slab on grade a concrete pad poured and formed up like a driveway or patio which doesn't have a pourrd concrete stem wall and foundation down below frost depth.

 

[showcrop]

I assume you're referring to the pic i shared. Help me understand what slab on grade means. And here in michigan where I am all cement is poured on compacted sand or gravel. What else would one pour it on.

Other names for slab on grade used to be "Alaskan slab" or "floating slab" They were used only for fairly small buildings. They consist of a six inch thick slab with one foot thick x two foot wide edge with rebar across. The idea is that they can float up and down on top of the frost without cracking. I remeber an excavation contractor who was very enthusiastic about them.

 

[bc]

Other names for slab on grade used to be "Alaskan slab" or "floating slab" They were used only for fairly small buildings. They consist of a six inch thick slab with one foot thick x two foot wide edge with rebar across. The idea is that they can float up and down on top of the frost without cracking. I remeber an excavation contractor who was very enthusiastic about them.

Yep. I've seen some 4" nominal stuff, actual 3.5". Instead of those concrete posts, I would make my own with a post hole digger, rebar, and cardboard tube for a form. Those brackets on top aren't cheap but they keep the wood away from rot and termites.

 

[redtom]

I don't see any sand or gravel around but maybe they do. I call slab on grade a concrete pad poured and formed up like a driveway or patio which doesn't have a pourrd concrete stem wall and foundation down below frost depth.

In all my life I've never seen a "stem wall" or below frost foundation or one foot thick by 2 foot wide edge used in a typical pole building floor. Maybe in a commercial shop bldg or factory building. If one is going to use a 4ft deep foundation wall below grade inside a pole building why not just continue the structure with stick building you're essentially prepping for both styles.

 

[paul]

Yep. I've seen some 4" nominal stuff, actual 3.5". Instead of those concrete posts, I would make my own with a post hole digger, rebar, and cardboard tube for a form. Those brackets on top aren't cheap but they keep the wood away from rot and termites.

Floating slab floor is very common, really don’t know what else one uses for a storage building if you want better than dirt/ gravel.

 

[m16ty]

Sounds like a lot of people live in places with lots of restrictions on barns and sheds. Around Here you have zero regulations on farm buildings. Don't even have to get a building permit.

 

[Ray,IN]

I’m building 40x60x12 high pole shed.
Wondering a few things.
For strapping on the walls I got quoted 2x6x16’ wall strapping.
Will 2x4’s work for wall strapping or stick with the 2x6?

Also looking for how you set your poles. Just tamp with gravel or mix in some concrete?

I had Amish build a 60'X40'X 15' pole barn. They used 2X4. They sat the 6"X6" poles using crushed stone.

 

[bc]

Sounds like a lot of people live in places with lots of restrictions on barns and sheds. Around Here you have zero regulations on farm buildings. Don't even have to get a building permit.

I don't have to pull a permit as well. A good part of code and construction practices are just common sense from experience. 90% to 95% of the NEC is worth following as well. There's some nitpicking items not needed.

I'd want a good foundation under a tar paper shack if I was building one. Same for a mobile home. Take the tires, wheels, and axles and sell them before they rot.

Just saying.

 

[Brian G. NY]

I definitely don't get the snow you do, but in 40 years (31 with shingles and 9 with steel) I've never had snow take gutters off.

My pole barn is 29 years old and my gutters are still "hanging on" without a problem.
Sometimes the snow all goes off at once with a big bang and other times it just sorta rolls off with big curls; never hangs up on the gutters.
Morton apparently has it all figured out.
I agree with the comment on having wide overhangs.

 

[hellothere123]

Question for those tgat used power poles. Would you put tge poles 4’ or 6’ on centre.
The builder im talking to said to go 4’ on centre.
But im wondering if thats overkill

 

[bc]

Question for those tgat used power poles. Would you put tge poles 4’ or 6’ on centre.
The builder im talking to said to go 4’ on centre.
But im wondering if thats overkill

Good question. It depends upon the loading. Ask the builder if it is because of loading or because he is putting up rafters on 4 foot spacing and wants a pole to attach them to.

 

[m16ty]

I've built many barns and sheds by digging the hole, sitting the post in the hole, dumping 2 bags of dry quickcrete down the hole, and then finish filing the hole with tamped dirt.

For banding I've never used anything but 2x6.

For setting poles and trusses, I made this attachment to go onto my hay spear. I just slid a piece of pipe over the spear, and added a chain a binder on the top for added support. You just have to be careful, use the added length of the pole for added height and not so much to reach out far. You can overload the tractor fast if you pick up something very heavy way far out.

 

[m16ty]

Question for those tgat used power poles. Would you put tge poles 4’ or 6’ on centre.
The builder im talking to said to go 4’ on centre.
But im wondering if thats overkill

I usually go 12' centers, but if it's a truss roof you probably want a post at whatever your truss centers are. 4' seems way overkill, closest I've ever put them is on 8' centers, trusses also on 8' centers. You can go with a little heavier truss design and stretch that out to 12' too. It doesn't cost much more to design a truss for 12' centers than it does for 8'.

Edit- I live in a area where we don't even figure snow load. You may be different as far as post and truss spacing if you have to figure in snow load. I have no idea how to figure snow load, as I said we don't even consider it around here.

 

[bc]

I've built many barns and sheds by digging the hole, sitting the post in the hole, dumping 2 bags of dry quickcrete down the hole, and then finish filing the hole with tamped dirt.

For banding I've never used anything but 2x6.

For setting poles and trusses, I made this attachment to go onto my hay spear. I just slid a piece of pipe over the spear, and added a chain a binder on the top for added support. You just have to be careful, use the added length of the pole for added height and not so much to reach out far. You can overload the tractor fast if you pick up something very heavy way far out.

You can mount a mower or a 3 point spear with bale on back for a counter weight. I keep my 6 foot mower on back for picking up 1500 pound bales on the front with a 3 point spear chained to the bucket. Just have to be careful when backing up.

What is the size and length of your pole? Also wondering where is the best spot for the brace/support and how long it should be be in proportion to the length?

 

[m16ty]

You can mount a mower or a 3 point spear with bale on back for a counter weight. I keep my 6 foot mower on back for picking up 1500 pound bales on the front with a 3 point spear chained to the bucket. Just have to be careful when backing up.

What is the size and length of your pole? Also wondering where is the best spot for the brace/support and how long it should be be in proportion to the length?

I’m no engineer by any means, but I am in the heavy lifting industry and have been involved with building lifting devices.

I think the pole is 12’ long and 3” dia. The taller the support, the better angle to support more weight. I have modified my bale spear to go on either the loader or 3-point and the 3rd arm attachment point sits a little higher than the spear frame, the chain is attached to that point. I just used a screw binder to tighten the chain the where it takes most of the load.

Really don’t know what the lift capacity is. I used it for setting the post and trusses on the last shed I built. I just did a test lift with the “jib” pretty flat and a test weight of the heaviest thing I would lift. There was virtually no deflection and no stability issues with the tractor so I called it good. Should pick up 300-400 lbs easy.

 

[Sberry]

Every 4 ft for wider barns. They probably need 4 on center for 50+ wide.

 

[StuartM]

I recommend you hire the job done, Last farmer who tried to build a pole barn fell and broth both legs.
As for how to build the barn, consult your building inspector.
If you don't have an inspector ask different contractors in your area what they recommend,
My inspector required my poles to be 6x6 and 54 inches below grade. He measured each hole
Each area of the country has different codes.
It took an Amish crew of 7 two days to build my 30x40x14 pole barn.
They have the right equipment to get the job done.
My contractor put concrete donuts under my poles.
Wood is not perfect and they had to bend the poles to get them perfectly aligned.
No concrete around the poles. The best thing is water to set the poles.
I got a good rain after the building was finished and the water settled the dirt around the poles.
After construction, I had a 6 inch floor put down and it supported the pole on 3 sides.
The poles aren't going anywhere

Bend the poles? Did you use triple laminated 2x lumber or straight 6x6?