Progress on the 830 com

jon f mn

Well-known Member
Made some progress on getting the 830 back together yesterday. Started with the pto clutch because I've done them before and they are easy. Just clean the up and stack the parts in proper order.

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First a driven disc, then a spring, then a drive disc. Then just repeat til you get them all in.

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I did find out that the pin that holds the adjustment will fall out with the spring and fall between the boards on my bench and down into the "stuff" underneath. Took some digging to find them. Lol

All done and ready go back in.

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Then the com, that was a bit more difficult. I intended to take pics along the way, but got so distracted i completely forgot til was done. Worst was the snap ring that holds the bearing on the main shaft. The gap was so wide even my big snap ring plier wouldn't take it off. Fought that for a couple hours and used my entire collection of naughty words. Also had trouble getting the large seal rings I'm, they really didn't want to stay in the slot. Cleaning took some time too, all the slots and holes were full of gunk. Took some time to clean all that out. I prelubed the bearings with oil and all the seal rings and o-rings with assembly lube to help with lube on start up. Here it is all done.

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Still have to replace the front trany seal, rear main seal on the engine, rebuild the 3pt valve, and seals where the injection pump mounts. I'll also have to build a tool for lifting the com into place, not doing that by hand like i took it out. Lol. Hope to get all that done next weekend.
 
Should have it ready just in time for spring work. Hopefully good for another 60 years. Sometimes you not only have to use the right naughty words, but they have to be in the right order. LOL
 
Should have it ready just in time for spring work. Hopefully good for another 60 years. Sometimes you not only have to use the right naughty words, but they have to be in the right order. LOL
I tried several different word combinations, guess I missed the correct one.
 
They get crazy dirty don't they. My piston hub behind the clutch plates was so gunked up and burred up inside. That is why when one does one of these, you strip them to parade rest!. best of luck Jon.
 
Thanks for the photos and narrative Jon. I also have an 830 com. I enjoy listening to your posts. Best of luck finishing it up.. Nick
 
Was your Piston clutch assembly just forward of the clutch pack gummed up. Mine was frozen with Bakelite and grindings and burred. It would not acuate. It is my opinion, that condition would not allow the plates to release. {Thus not being able to shift in Direct Drive. My Case-O-Matic is now assembled. I will be putting her back into the Torque tube Monday Jon. Chuck Machinist.
 
Was your Piston clutch assembly just forward of the clutch pack gummed up. Mine was frozen with Bakelite and grindings and burred. It would not acuate. It is my opinion, that condition would not allow the plates to release. {Thus not being able to shift in Direct Drive. My Case-O-Matic is now assembled. I will be putting her back into the Torque tube Monday Jon. Chuck Machinist.
It had some in it, but I don't think it was enough to cause issues. But under the seal rings had a lot and I don't think the new rings would have gone in without cleaning.
 
Some of the reason they grind is that there is nothing to push the piston back away from the discs, in years past often we would find a slight groove wore in the drum, a light cut in the turning lathe would clean it up, also having the slowest idle possible on the motor helps also.
 
My point exactly Roger .the piston will not release, thus you have grinding. while trying to shift into gear. CM.
 

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Gentlemen, If you have the flow diagrams from the service manual you will see in clutch down mode the charge pressure comes behind the main clutch piston to serve to push it back. That pressure would normally be in the 30- 40 Lb range and the regulator is mounted to the top cover right next to the main COM valve. It should definitely be disassembled and cleaned. Direct Drive Pressure flow comes into the center of the mainshaft to go front to the DD piston therefore rear PTO bushing to shaft clearance is of utmost importance. Chuck was not able to access the Hook Seal which was added in a production change so will be depending totally on shaft/ bushing fit to seal DD pressure from peeing out the back shaft. I have some ideas which I would incorporate into a repair on my own unit to overcome the fact of that sealing ring being made of Unobtanium as I have split lots do that repair. Jon, be sure to align the clutch plates and install the jackscrews to hold the plates in alignment till installed but do not forget to remove them after installation. I had a customer do that and scored up the back of his piston some but fortunately it still worked properly.
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Gentlemen, If you have the flow diagrams from the service manual you will see in clutch down mode the charge pressure comes behind the main clutch piston to serve to push it back. That pressure would normally be in the 30- 40 Lb range and the regulator is mounted to the top cover right next to the main COM valve. It should definitely be disassembled and cleaned. Direct Drive Pressure flow comes into the center of the mainshaft to go front to the DD piston therefore rear PTO bushing to shaft clearance is of utmost importance. Chuck was not able to access the Hook Seal which was added in a production change so will be depending totally on shaft/ bushing fit to seal DD pressure from peeing out the back shaft. I have some ideas which I would incorporate into a repair on my own unit to overcome the fact of that sealing ring being made of Unobtanium as I have split lots do that repair. Jon, be sure to align the clutch plates and install the jackscrews to hold the plates in alignment till installed but do not forget to remove them after installation. I had a customer do that and scored up the back of his piston some but fortunately it still worked properly.
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I did use the jack screws and di take them back out. That is a good reminder tho.
 

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