Radiator Pressure

[Anonymous-0]

My radiator does NOT build up ANY pressure. In other words, whenever I remove the cap, even after long trips of 1/2 hour down the road (but doing no "work"), there is never any pressure release. However, there is also NO TIGHTNESS to the cap. I must say that the cap is NEW, but does not fit tightly. Also, I must say that the thermostat is NEW and was put in the correct way. What is going on?

 

[souNdguy]

New style radiators are 4psi systems.

If your cap don't fit tight.. it can't build any pressure.

Check the cap for damage and fit, and check the neck for deformation / damage.

Old style 'large tank' 9n had a non pressurized system with funny 'lug on the inside' caps that are not interchangeable with newer style pressurized caps.

Soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

Hey SouNdguy,
My N is a 1952. The radiator has been in place for an undetermined time. Got the N from my wife's uncles in Idaho in 2004. Don't know if it ever had any pressure. Am I understanding you correctly that my system may not be a pressurized one? What are the ins and outs of each? I would guess that the pressurized systems can run hotter and therefore make the engine operate more efficiently. Can you tell me more? Thanks, Tom

 

[souNdguy]

1952 model had a pressurized radiator from the factory.

Pressurized system raises the boil point of water.. just like a pressure cooker does..

soundguy

 

[Dave H]

Tom, check the ledges/things that the cap tightens down on. More than likely they are deformed.

 

[Bob Jones]

My 9N is the same way and it has never over-heated, even after plowing or discing for 2 or more hours straight. Until I put in a thermostat it never even got beyond luke warm. Now it gets hot but does not boil.

 

[grahamgl]

"Need a radiator for a '42 Ford 9N. Aftermarket aluminum ones come with 19 PSI caps, but the 9N needs 0–4 PSI. I hear getting a low-pressure cap to fit the throat on those AL radiators is tough. Is it better to stick with an original-style brass/copper replacement?"