Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
OPERATOR ERROR/MYTH #1: ...I can't get my 6V system to run...soooo, I then must go to 12v... Wrong thinking. As our late Sparkie-Meister Dell used to prophesize, If
it won't run on 6V what makes you think will on 12V? The first thing to check when tractor won't start is the battery. If it is not kept on a decent float charger
when idle in barn or shed, you will drain it within a week. The DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR is a VG 6V unit. A good indicator you have weak or dead battery is when you
hit the start button and all you get is the Relay (Solenoid) click click clicking. Error #2 is to just start yanking off parts and replacing without performing any
true root cause problem solving methods and testing components first. Incorrect Wiring is also the #1 cause accounting for 99.98% of all non-starting issues. Did you
do the GEM motoring test and/or have the GEN tested at a shop? Your trusty local GEN/ALT shop guy can bench test the battery, GEN, VR, AMMETER, and more. Polarizing
probably is not the root cause problem. Many are done incorrectly as JMOR said and you will fry the unit if not done correctly. All FORDS used the 'B' Circuit Type
GENERATOR starting with the NAA. All 8N's were the 'A' Circuit type. Your shop guy can inspect the GEN internally and pinpoint exactly how it is wired. Once rebuilt
and tested, it should be automatically polarized. Using the VR to polarize is just a simple method once the unit is mounted. The motoring test will also polarize the
unit when wired correctly for testing. But as I said, polarizing is probably NOT your problem. Get yourself a copy of JMOR's WIRING PICTOGRAMS and go thru the entire
wiring setup. Often electrical issues can be traced to incorrect lighting wiring and distributor problems too. Ain't nothing 'wrong' with 12V but don't think it is
going to rectify your 6V non-running issues. 12V should be done for the right reasons, not a guess out of frustration on your part. Using non OEM type parts not
advised. Avoid shortcuts and never guess. Use your manuals and documents for reference.
FORD NAA WIRING PICTOGRAMS:
OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING FOR ALL FORD TRACTORS BEGINNING WITH THE NAA THUR 00 HUNDRED SERIES:
NOTE FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CLOCKWISE. THE LATE 8N WIRING USING ANGLE MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR IS THE SAME EXCEPT FIRING ORDER IS CCW.
ALS0, THE 01 SERIES FROM 1957 0N OMITTED THE AMMETER AND ADDED A DASH CHARGING LAMP INSTEAD.
NOTE: WHEN DOING A 12V CONVERSION, BOTH THE GEN AND VR ARE REMOVED FROM THE CIRCUIT.
POLARIZING CIRCUITS & THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR:
Tim Daley (MI)
it won't run on 6V what makes you think will on 12V? The first thing to check when tractor won't start is the battery. If it is not kept on a decent float charger
when idle in barn or shed, you will drain it within a week. The DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR is a VG 6V unit. A good indicator you have weak or dead battery is when you
hit the start button and all you get is the Relay (Solenoid) click click clicking. Error #2 is to just start yanking off parts and replacing without performing any
true root cause problem solving methods and testing components first. Incorrect Wiring is also the #1 cause accounting for 99.98% of all non-starting issues. Did you
do the GEM motoring test and/or have the GEN tested at a shop? Your trusty local GEN/ALT shop guy can bench test the battery, GEN, VR, AMMETER, and more. Polarizing
probably is not the root cause problem. Many are done incorrectly as JMOR said and you will fry the unit if not done correctly. All FORDS used the 'B' Circuit Type
GENERATOR starting with the NAA. All 8N's were the 'A' Circuit type. Your shop guy can inspect the GEN internally and pinpoint exactly how it is wired. Once rebuilt
and tested, it should be automatically polarized. Using the VR to polarize is just a simple method once the unit is mounted. The motoring test will also polarize the
unit when wired correctly for testing. But as I said, polarizing is probably NOT your problem. Get yourself a copy of JMOR's WIRING PICTOGRAMS and go thru the entire
wiring setup. Often electrical issues can be traced to incorrect lighting wiring and distributor problems too. Ain't nothing 'wrong' with 12V but don't think it is
going to rectify your 6V non-running issues. 12V should be done for the right reasons, not a guess out of frustration on your part. Using non OEM type parts not
advised. Avoid shortcuts and never guess. Use your manuals and documents for reference.
FORD NAA WIRING PICTOGRAMS:
OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING FOR ALL FORD TRACTORS BEGINNING WITH THE NAA THUR 00 HUNDRED SERIES:
ALS0, THE 01 SERIES FROM 1957 0N OMITTED THE AMMETER AND ADDED A DASH CHARGING LAMP INSTEAD.
NOTE: WHEN DOING A 12V CONVERSION, BOTH THE GEN AND VR ARE REMOVED FROM THE CIRCUIT.
POLARIZING CIRCUITS & THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR:
Tim Daley (MI)