Rear tire fluid ideas ? (Super M Farmall.)

mike1972chev

Well-known Member
I am getting ready to mount some brand new Alliance 14.9 x 38 tires on my Farmall Super M. Up till now I have just ran empty tires with 2 wheel weights on each rear tire. I am considering adding a bit of fluid this time and was looking for the best options of what to add. I WILL NOT be using calcium ,but looking for a less corrosive alternative.

Also,how much fluid should I use ????
 
Ive used windshield washer fluid before. Non corrosive, not quite as toxic as waste antifreeze, not as heavy as CaCl, and reasonably economical.
 
Most weight for the buck is chloride. After that the rest is up to you. The only way these rims/wheels rust from chloride is if leaks are not fixed right away. Leaving them to leak and rust are the reasons for the problems shown on here. I do have an 806 with one tire with chloride and the other with just iron on it. don't see a lot of difference except in wet conditions. Seems like the loaded tire stays up on top better than the weighted one. Both pull equally on hard ground like in summer weather. Full to the top of the rim/wheel is the proper level in them. Less will tend to hop as it goes around.
 
Nothing particularly revolutionary going on in tire fluid. You've got your calcium chloride. You've got your beet juice aka rimguard. You've got your washer fluid. You've got your radiator antifreeze.

According to tire ballast charts you can find online a 14.9x38 requires 67 gallons per tire, and weighs 700lbs per tire for rimguard, 750lbs for a saturated calcium solution, 500lbs for washer fluid, 640lbs for a 50/50 antifreeze solution.

Before you go to the trouble, why do you think you need to add liquid ballast to the tires?
 
The correct fluid fill level is, with wheel jacked up off the ground, and valve stem rotated to the up-most position, the fluid level should be 1 inch below valve stem.
Any less, or more, the water/air will begin to travel with the rotation of the wheel at higher speeds (such as 5th gear). Causing severe un-balance. The hopping affect.

Fluid is not really one of those deals, where you just add however much weight you want, like you would wheel weights. If you add it, you should fill to appropriate levels, even if that is going to be WAY more weight than you had in mind.

That said, my advice would be, to forget the fluid, and add a third wheel weight. Whatever you got to do to get it on there. I have seen wheel weights on both sides of the wheel. As in, like, one on the inside, and two on the outside.
 
I would have to look now but I think on the 806 I put 6 halves on the inside and 1 or 2 on the outside. It takes about that much to equal the weight of the chloride in the tire. I figured if I had 700LBS in the tire with chloride then I needed at least that much on the wheel.I didn't want them sticking out to catch things so the reason for the 69halves on the inside. I used threaded rod for all 4 holes and slid the weights on the rods. With one on the outside they stayed pretty still for starting the firs half on each pair of bolts. I also staggered the joint of the weights so all the bolts are holding the weights instead of just 2 holding each half.
 
I just use cast iron weights, i got six on each wheel on the M's and Supers MTA's and put a full set of suitcase weights on the 806 on a bracket on the 3 point hitch, for the plowday event. The year i took the fluid out, and repaint the rim, i weld the year on the outside rim ! I could get 15 inch long ,3/4 bolts from Macs Hardware,Aberdeen SD.
 
(quoted from post at 07:35:00 05/02/22) I just use cast iron weights, i got six on each wheel on the M's and Supers MTA's and put a full set of suitcase weights on the 806 on a bracket on the 3 point hitch, for the plowday event. The year i took the fluid out, and repaint the rim, i weld the year on the outside rim ! I could get 15 inch long ,3/4 bolts from Macs Hardware,Aberdeen SD.

Rear wheel weight prices have gone through the roof. Used to be able to get two M weights for $100, now they're bringing that much EACH or more.
 
How does your Super M act when you are at the limit of what it wants to pull ? Does it spin or stall ? Three weights on either side of my H and it is a toss up whether it it digs a hole or dies. I think that is just about right.

You are right not to use calcium chloride. The valves in the inner tubes are so cheap now that they rot out in a couple years. When the valve core blows out and you are way out at the far end of the field, you might make it back to the yard. It never happens right up by the shed.
 
For what I am doing,it seems like I just need a BIT more weight.

I think I am going to try to add one one weight per wheel and see how that goes first. The fact of running any fluid and valve cores has me concerned. I have new Firestone tubes,(The only brand my two different tire sales places will even sell to me.)but still maybe not the best idea of adding fluid .
 
I have rim guard in my tires cost me $1.25 a gallon and in 11.2 x 24 tires they put in 24 gallons at 11 lbs a gallon that's an additional 264 lbs per tire.
 

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