rebuild question

mike wallace

New User
Hi:
I am going to rebuild my 1955 Ford 600. I am trying to decide if I should install an overbore sleeve kit. This tractor has been used on the same farm for approx 35 years; it always seemed to have enough power to do the job. So much of the modern equipment requires a minimum HP to run the equipment efficiently. This is the only tractor I own and I don't do much farming anymore, but if I do I don't want to be short on HP. What kind of a HP gain can be expected by going with the 3.5 O/B kit? I am planning a complete job head, to crank, are there potential problems by going O/B, like over heating or excessive strain on old mechanical parts?
Thanks,
Mike
 
If you want more power, just get a 172 cid engine from an 800 or 801 tractor. It will be both cheaper than a rebuild and give more power than an over bore.

Overbore may give 1-3 hp (big whoop)

going to a 172 will give 15-18 hp.

Good running engines go from $500 to 1200 depending on area, condition etc.

There may even be some people here with engines available.

jb
 
While a tractor HP rating will be less do to HP loss in the trans and rear end lets just look at the motor.

A 134 has about 48 brake HP for 3.44"
A 172 has about 62 brake HP for 3.90"

A 134 with a over bore to 3.50 is going to put you in the 51-52 HP range.

Thats 3-4 HP. You will never notice the differance.
Add into that the fact that thicker metal displaces heat better and the over bore looks even worse.

In my book there is one and only one reason to consider a over bore. That is in a non sleeve engine that is out of round or is wore so much it just will not seal with standard size pistons and rings. A sleeved engine never has a reason for a over bore that I can think of off hand.

Now if I could just find me a newer pick-up with a sleeved motor; I would be set.
 
It sure would be quicker and a lot less work to swap motors, if I could find one in the right price range. If anyone knows of any good 600's or 800's out there I would like to know about them.
Thanks for the info.
 
Those HP numbers you supplied are higher than the 31 and 40 I have seen in other places. Like you said, HP is lost through the transmission, maybe the 31 and 40 are at the wheels or the PTO. The HP gain with the O/B is minimal and heat disbursement could be a problem.
Thanks
 
Sorry John but your hp figures area little high.
32 for the 134 [when fresh]
42-45 for the 172 depending on the carb.
Buy a remanufactured 172 short block,[which will be overbored]and ready to blot in. Rework your head by milling the head, adding bigger valves and opening up the intake with a die grinder. Spend a little more and get the 172 intake[open it to the match the head] and carb. Big difference in power. If your old short block has decent compression but just doesn't have enough hp for your applaction ,you should be able to sell it for around $500. I got the complete short block for around $1200 with no trade in. One thing I did find out you can't bore the 134 out to 172 even without sleves. Not enough meat. I dissasembled a perfectly good 134 engine for more hp then found out it couldn't be done and made to last. Shoulda just sold it and used the money tword the new short block. With more hp and while you have the tractor split, put in a heavier clutch with more springs.
 
You said it has run good and done its job for 34 years. Why not return it ot original specs and see if you can get another 34 years of good service. Why mess around with balanced components that have proven how well they match and perform. You will have the original tractor with original engine serial numbers, etc. No extra strain on clutch, tran, diff, colling, etc. Tom
 
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