Mike Volpp
Member
Recently I purchased and reconditioned a TO20, during which time I benefitted from the considerable knowledge shared on the discussion forums of ytmag and FENA. This particular Fergie showed original paint, albeit very worn, and sheet metal in good condition, testament to being sheltered most of the time since its manufacture in 1949. Once cleaned of a considerable layer of grease and dirt, a Hupp overdrive was revealed, not having been noticed upon the pre-buy inspection. Minimal maintenance over the preceding several years resulted in a leaking radiator, inoperative generator, cracked wiring and inoperative lights, inoperative brakes with the right side frozen, bad front wheel bearings, broken front bumper, corroded distributor cap and spark plug wire ends, burned out muffler, and broken water temperature sending line. When the radiator was removed for repair, it was found that there was no in-hose thermostat.
Much time was spent cleaning, and plenty of PB Blaster applied to loosen everything that was stuck before repairs were made, among the first being replacement of front wheel bearings, the demise of which had probably been hastened by the seals having been installed backwards. Next up was removal of the rear wheels (by engine hoist, as they are full of fluid) and replacement of brake linings. I was able to reuse the shims and paper gaskets by careful removal, but wouldn’t necessarily count on that the next time – replacements are readily available. As expected, the linings were barely worn but saturated in transmission oil due to the inherent design, clogged up brake drum drain holes, and over-full transmission oil level. That excess of lube within the wheels, however, did keep the adjusters and bolts from rusting. Remember to align the star wheel of the adjuster with the adjustment slot before affixing the springs – one’s up and one’s down. It goes without saying that everything should be cleaned well before reassembly, especially the drain holes in the brake drums. No matter how well the axle end wheel bearings are packed before affixing the Sure Seals, nor how long one lets it sit with the axles replaced to allow for drainage of the last vestiges of transmission oil before replacing the drums, it won’t truly be complete until the wheels are on and have turned awhile. That will be evidenced by a small amount of oil on the rim that will be of short duration. Rewiring is simple but time consuming, and remember to either replace the light switch with one that is fused, or put an in-line fuse between the key switch and light switch. Without a fuse, an unexpected short in the headlight wiring, for example, can lead to a repeat rewiring at the least, and potential for fire. When it came time to replace the repaired radiator, it was found that the new thermostat was easily installed in the new upper hose by lubing the hose with K-Y and pressing it in place with a 1 ¼” socket. Full depth of the socket (square end out) put the thermostat in the middle of the hose, socket slides back out readily.
With functional brakes, new water temp gauge, and new wiring (twice), we’re now enjoying a bush hoggin’ fool and look forward to using this classic for years to come.
Mike V.
Much time was spent cleaning, and plenty of PB Blaster applied to loosen everything that was stuck before repairs were made, among the first being replacement of front wheel bearings, the demise of which had probably been hastened by the seals having been installed backwards. Next up was removal of the rear wheels (by engine hoist, as they are full of fluid) and replacement of brake linings. I was able to reuse the shims and paper gaskets by careful removal, but wouldn’t necessarily count on that the next time – replacements are readily available. As expected, the linings were barely worn but saturated in transmission oil due to the inherent design, clogged up brake drum drain holes, and over-full transmission oil level. That excess of lube within the wheels, however, did keep the adjusters and bolts from rusting. Remember to align the star wheel of the adjuster with the adjustment slot before affixing the springs – one’s up and one’s down. It goes without saying that everything should be cleaned well before reassembly, especially the drain holes in the brake drums. No matter how well the axle end wheel bearings are packed before affixing the Sure Seals, nor how long one lets it sit with the axles replaced to allow for drainage of the last vestiges of transmission oil before replacing the drums, it won’t truly be complete until the wheels are on and have turned awhile. That will be evidenced by a small amount of oil on the rim that will be of short duration. Rewiring is simple but time consuming, and remember to either replace the light switch with one that is fused, or put an in-line fuse between the key switch and light switch. Without a fuse, an unexpected short in the headlight wiring, for example, can lead to a repeat rewiring at the least, and potential for fire. When it came time to replace the repaired radiator, it was found that the new thermostat was easily installed in the new upper hose by lubing the hose with K-Y and pressing it in place with a 1 ¼” socket. Full depth of the socket (square end out) put the thermostat in the middle of the hose, socket slides back out readily.
With functional brakes, new water temp gauge, and new wiring (twice), we’re now enjoying a bush hoggin’ fool and look forward to using this classic for years to come.
Mike V.
