Replace gas engine with an electric motor

[bronco]

I have been thinking of replacing the 5 hp gas engine on my log splitter with an electric motor. I only use it near the house and I'm tired of fooling with the engine to get it to run decently. I'm wondering if a 2 hp motor (3450 rpm ) would run the hydraulic pump well enough. I use the splitter about 2-3 days a year, so the cost of electricity isn't a concern, reliability is. I'm thinking a 220v motor would be the best choice, but it depends on what I can find and the duty cycle.

Thoughts, comments....

thanks,
John

 

[buickanddeere]

3HP will be past it's service factor but if used intermitantly, it should do.
A 2HP stall and make the electricty leak from the wires.

 

[Anonymous-0]

My dad built his own hydraulic splitter a long time ago and did just what you're thinking about. I don't know what size electric motor he put on it, but he used pulleys and a belt to reduce the pump speed to "trade speed for torque" so the motor handles it. I've never used his outfit, I use mine when helping him- don't want to go slower.

 

[Gun guru]

You will need to check the flow and pressure of the hydraulic pump. Input HP to a pump is as follows.
Flow X pressure divided by
1480

The pump is likely a fixed displacement pump and the pressure is needed to crush the logs.

 

[guido]

Hello bronco,
A 5HP gasoline engine is equivalent to an electric motor that draws 3700 watts. That is about the size of the motor you will need.
First step, as you said, make sure you have one with the correct duty cycle.
At 120v it will draw 30.8 amps. Breaker size 50A
At 240v it will draw 15.41 amps.Breaker size 20Ax2
Guido.

 

[bronco]

The manual says it's a two stage gear pump, with an operating pressure of 2600 psig, and it's thin on any other kind of technical info.
The splitter isn't handy right now for me to look at the pump for the flow rate.
This is a 16 ton Northern splitter that I bought back in early '92, if this helps any....

John

 

[buicanddeere]

5HP = 3730W on the shaft. As the motor isn't 100% efficient. The motor will consume approx 4960W.
Unless the motor has power factor correction capacitors to unity power factor. The reactive power component adds more current, though be it 90 degrees lagging the voltage.
So a typical 5HP motor draws 28.0 fla with 230V,6460va. There is 1480va,6.4amps of reactive current.
A 3HP electric motor can produce 5HP for maybe 5-10 seconds every minute if the motor is lightly loaded the remaining time.
The cables running to the motor should be at minimum 10 gauge.

 

[jd b puller]

What happened to the "k" in Buick?

 

[bronco]

It would be running it off of a 30 amp 220v circuit that would normally be for an electric dryer, if I had one....so this would be the limiting factor for motor size.

 

[buickanddeere]

Fumble fingers, I only type with two or four at most. Surprised the site accepted the post with the "incorrect" spelling.

 

[jd b puller]

No problem, just saw several posts like that and thought. hmmm...

 

[Tramway Guy]

I think the 2 HP would work OK. Since the splitter has a two-stage pump, if the motor stalls before the low speed kicks in, I think the pump could be adjusted to switch to low speed at a lower pressure. If you can find a motor with a 1.15 or 1.20 service factor, you will have a 'reserve' built in.

 

[greygoat]

I built one from scratch, using a 220 volt 5
horsepower, 1750 rpm motor, and 60 feet of heavy
duty cable to plug into a welding outlet. A bell
housing mount is available from Graingers to
mount a pump direct to a C face motor, using
lovejoy couplers. I scrounged a I beam, had a
welding shop weld a Northern wedge on, (didn't
trust my welding for that much tonnage), and got
a 4 inch bore cylinder, with 2 inch rod, (a
smaller rod WILL bend) from Baileys, as well as
a directional valve. I used a Vickers V10 single
stage pump that I already had, and purchased hoses locally. Make sure that you flush new
hydraulic hoses before using, don't just blow them
out, cutting debris left inside is very abrasive,
and can ruin a pump. I squirt starting fluid
through them, then blow out with air. You'll be
suprised at what dirt comes out of a new hose.
I got a 5 gallon tank, suction screen, and return
line 10 micron filter from Northern. And only
used HYDRAULIC fittings--galvanized WATER PIPE
fitting are DANGEROUS. Valve and cylinder are
also available from Northern.
I dump my block wood in front of the workshop,
split it right there, and stack it.
You could probably purchase a gas engine splitter
cheaper. I think that a 2 or 3 horse motor, if
a pump is properly matched to it would work, but
be very slow. More horsepower is more gallons per
minute, which equals a faster system cycle.