second attempt - thread locker

[HFJ]

i am looking for a high temperature thread locker for use on bolts that thread into a small engine exhaust manifold. can anyone recommend a specific one that will work in this application?

if you have suggestions for other methods of approaching this issue, thanks but that's not what i'm asking.

in the first topic, i only got 2 specific product references. one was for red loctite and one for green. the rest were other methods. i would prefer to use a threadlocker if possible rather than wires, tabs, et al.

i know red will not work and another poster says green won't either.

:?

 

[Muir hill 101]

.
High temperature loctite

 

[HFJ]

ahh, now we're getting somewhere. i wonder if i've been told loctite colors the wrong way around, which is ironic, since i am the colorblind one.

i was told (not here) that green was for hotter applications than red. is that backwards?

This post was edited by HFJ on 05/16/2023 at 08:25 pm.

 

[Muir hill 101]

There are a bunch of different ratings just have to look
up the spec of what you want to do with it

 

[HFJ]

i was told by a friend to look for green because it was rated for higher temps. but if i remember my maffs right, 450 > 300. it's been a strange color week for me. i bought some fence posts the other day. when i called ahead to check to be sure they had what i wanted, they said they ya we've got those, they're green. they're actually red lol.

 

[Check Break]

Loctite 680 Green. Apply 500 degrees to remove. Might not work for your application.

 

[4play]

For a real high temp threadlocker, which I don't think loctite has, search for, "Hot-Lock" from Vibra-TITE company, you might check out all their other products too. Heating the parts for several minutes after application is needed, I used a heat gun.

I've used this stuff on threaded barrels, and on wood stove hinges. Both of these applications were always coming loose and not anymore. Also removing the parts after application is not bad. This stuff has mild holding strength similar to blue loctite, it just doesn't melt or burn out at lower temps.

 

[rustred]

Green is to take up clearance. I would not use any kind of
locktite in that situation. Plus I dont know if its just
bolts. Coming loose or its studs and nuts. If its studs
loosening maybe then could glue them in but its a one
time deal. And go with the good old fashioned locknuts
on the studs. Not nylocks. You must have buggard up
threads if they are coming loose. If its tight I dont see
how they can loosen themselves.

 

[Muir hill 101]

680 is good for 355 degree max . The one I posted is
good to 455 degrees max

 

[Mule Meat]

I am with Rustred. I don't think we're being told the whole story.

The OP ask about thread locker for exhaust bolts on a B&S engine that keeps loosing themselves. Everything that was suggested from Lock Tite to alternative methods all seem be the wrong answer.

My guess would be the engine has physical damage. Either the bolts, the threads in the engine block or the exhaust itself have been damaged thus not allowing the bolts to tighten properly. I would put my money on the threads in the aluminum block are damaged. If that is the case. No color of thread locker or even Granny's special wrinkle cream is going to remedy the problem.

Be honest. How many of you have ever had exhaust bolts on a small engine magically loosen themselves on a regular basis without finding something damaged? Believe it's time to pull out the ole drill and a tap and die set..

 

[UncleTom]

I just put together a 15.5 hp briggs engine and back on the mower. got it up to temperature and snugged the exhaust bolts up some more. They creaked when i tightened them but it took some. That is all i would do and dont wory about it unless you have them damaged.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

(quoted from post at 02:01:19 05/17/23) My guess would be the engine has physical damage. Either the bolts, the threads in the engine block or the exhaust itself have been damaged thus not allowing the bolts to tighten properly. I would put my money on the threads in the aluminum block are damaged. If that is the case. No color of thread locker or even Granny's special wrinkle cream is going to remedy the problem.

If thread damage is the name of the game the best hope he has from a squirt bottle is the green. Best to give it full cure time before trying to start the engine.

Been dealing with a similar problem on my mower. The front mounting bolts for the transaxle had worked themselves out and were gone. I threaded new bolts in and they tightened and held for a while, but came out again this spring. Ended up pulling the whole axle, tapping the holes to 3/8" AND modifying the bracket to grab another hole so hopefully it doesn't come apart again... No loctite was going to fix that one.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 06:01:19 05/17/23) I am with Rustred. I don't think we're being told the whole story.

The OP ask about thread locker for exhaust bolts on a B&S engine that keeps loosing themselves. Everything that was suggested from Lock Tite to alternative methods all seem be the wrong answer.

My guess would be the engine has physical damage. Either the bolts, the threads in the engine block or the exhaust itself have been damaged thus not allowing the bolts to tighten properly. I would put my money on the threads in the aluminum block are damaged. If that is the case. No color of thread locker or even Granny's special wrinkle cream is going to remedy the problem.

Be honest. How many of you have ever had exhaust bolts on a small engine magically loosen themselves on a regular basis without finding something damaged? Believe it's time to pull out the ole drill and a tap and die set..

well, while i appreciate the time you spent, none of that was of any use, because it's a bunch of false assumptions.

yes, lock nuts, wires, and tab strips were all the wrong answer. since i was told some apparently incorrect info from a friend, i had grean and red locktite confused for a bit. that was cleared up last night, and i will be putting the red loctite on that i just got today. i have wanted to learn about high temp thread lockers before this anyway, and this was a good time to do so. i know how to use wires and lock nuts. the factory tab strip failed on its own.

there is zero damage to the engine. this has zero to do with the aluminum engine block. these are bolts that are threaded into what i believe to be a cast iron manifold., and those threads are fine.

now, u can rationalize this all u want, but the fact remains hat my exhaust, which i had never messed with, fell off the engine one day. if you believe i'm making that up out of some bizarre need to chat with people, lol i don't know what to tell u. u might have noticed someone else in the first thread had theirs fall off too.

thank you to rustred for the explanation about green taking up clearance. that is definitely not what i need.

 

[HFJ]

thank you for focusing on my actual question. it is appreciated

 

[timcasbolt]

The exhaust pipe on a gas engine gets over 1200 degrees F. A 450 degree Loctite isn't going to accomplish anything.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 11:50:25 05/17/23) The exhaust pipe on a gas engine gets over 1200 degrees F. A 450 degree Loctite isn't going to accomplish anything.

since this small bottle or red was just given to me by a friend, it has cost me nothing to try it. but i won't be surprised if it fails to do the job.

i had someone tell me these engines operate at ~ 240 F and red would be fine. i didn't believe it , and that's why i didn't buy any. but my friend has an 8 ounce bottle of the red, so he brought some by.

This post was edited by HFJ on 05/17/2023 at 08:39 am.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 01:59:22 05/17/23) For a real high temp threadlocker, which I don't think loctite has, search for, "Hot-Lock" from Vibra-TITE company, you might check out all their other products too. Heating the parts for several minutes after application is needed, I used a heat gun.

I've used this stuff on threaded barrels, and on wood stove hinges. Both of these applications were always coming loose and not anymore. Also removing the parts after application is not bad. This stuff has mild holding strength similar to blue loctite, it just doesn't melt or burn out at lower temps.

thanks. i have a feeling i'll need to be ordering some soon, but i'm happy to see it's not priced in the stratosphere. i see multiple versions. any opinions there?

i did just buy a heat gun last week, but my feeling was, to remove it, i'd run the engine

 

[ss55]

Tabs, safety wire, or tack weld will hold. Solder or any liquid thread lockers will not take the 1000+F temperature of an exhaust manifold.

 

[HFJ]

4play has referred me to a specific product which says it works up to 2000 F. another user (sorry, forgot who and it's a pain to check on classic lol) says this application is around 1200 F. are you unfamiliar with the product or are you disputing their claimed effective temperature range?

 

[HFJ]

Vibra-Tite Hot Lock is a medium-high strength ceramic based threadlocker boasting extreme temperature resistance up to 2000 F. This high temperature threadlocker will lock threaded joints in place at temperatures where standard threadlockers would disintegrate. Formulated to provide exceptional performance across a variety of substrate finishes, Hot Lok is recommended for use on vehicle exhaust bolts, turocharger fasteners, muzzle brakes and suppressors.
Vibra Tite 199