Service line drop & power pole replacement

[bc]

Part of my electric work is to replace an old power pole in the yard that broke off at the ground a couple years ago and I dug a new hole and stuck it in the ground. Got a pic below of how it was done 80-100 years ago. I'm thinking a couple eyebolts with line clamps and drip leg on the new pole.

Second pic is the house service line and new 4 wire service entrance I put in when a storm tore loose the 80 year old wire drop that wasn't in conduit. I never was quite sure how high and separation distance for the service line attachment and the bottom of the masthead. Also couldn't find anything on how far down the drip leg should be. I erred on the side of being too long. I can always lower the masthead. At some point I am going to bury that overhead line. Thanks.

 

[Frankinfl]

Not a fan of split bolts on aluminum conductor.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Not a fan of split bolts on aluminum conductor.

What's the alternative? We've had problems several times over the years. Always used the split bolt "bugs" on the aluminum wires. Every once in a while one burns out.

 

[showcrop]

Not a fan of split bolts on aluminum conductor.

I like them!!

 

[RJKeith]

What's the alternative? We've had problems several times over the years. Always used the split bolt "bugs" on the aluminum wires. Every once in a while one burns out.

Most utilities use a compatible crimp splice. The problem is with a split bolt there, it needs to be retorqued annually with aluminum, assuming the split bolt material is compatible with the aluminum. Not as bad on the ground neutral, but still.

Also, the bonding of the ground and neutral is supposed to be at the service switch. Looks like a good photo for EC&M's "what's wrong here.

 

[matthies]

I have had problems with the crimp splices at two different places, and never any problems with the split bolts.

 

[JMOR]

I see power co uses crimps, but as for “compatibility “, what is compatible with both copper and aluminum that is being joined? Just curious.

 

[Keith True]

I have an outbuilding with a single strand ground wire connected up high like that.I just noticed it a couple of years ago,it wasn't something I had done,and I do all my own work.I tracked it down,it was connected to a telephone service.I rented the building to a guy for a temporary shop in 2020,and he had a phone installed.Access to the inside panel would require some cutting and work to the wall.On the outside the ground wire is enclosed in conduit,with the bottom a few inches down in the dirt.So instead of disturbing anything existing the phone guy ran that ground conductor kind of tucked in behind the service cable,and tied it in up top.Did a real tidy job of it too.It was never critical,and the phone hasn't been in use since 2002.

 

[Frankinfl]

What's the alternative? We've had problems several times over the years. Always used the split bolt "bugs" on the aluminum wires. Every once in a while one burns out.

Preferred would be the type used by most electric utilities. Which is a compression connector prefilled with antioxidant with grit. Likely you do not have access to the tools to install this type. Next would be the connector bars sold at Lowes and such stores. Be generous with the antioxidant and use a thermal glue lined heat shrink to keep moisture out.

 

[bc]

I'll get a pic but I replaced an ancient weatherhead (some of the youngsters here probably haven't seen before) that the third/grounding wire was wrapped around the two conductors and wasn't in conduit. It had a ground wire going to 2 ground rods next to the house. I added that ground wire because it was originally grounded there and I couldn't think of a better way to do it.

As I recall I put up the new weatherhead and line next to the old one. I likely used the same split bolts that were there. I'll check but I think the riser and overhead lines are all aluminum but now I don't remember. Also the green wire and white wire are separated at the new 200 amp panel I put in with the green wire going to a grounding bar attached to the panel.

I believe the meter on the pole just has a disconnect with a 100 amp breaker with a conduit riser going back up the pole. I will check to see how things are grounded at the pole but I don't remember seeing a ground rod there.

I think on a typical setup the meter has a ground wire going to the rod and nothing is grounded downstream. The meter pole has overhead lines going to another pole at the property line and another overhead line going to the transformer pole.

Gotta go to the VA hospital today but will try to get more pics. Thanks.

 

[olddavid]

Also, the bonding of the ground and neutral is supposed to be at the service switch. Looks like a good photo for EC&M's "what's wrong here.

This is true unless they go to the same point in the service panel (doubtful) i.e. essentially double wire neutral (one wire wrong color). If there is no interrupt panel or switch between the meter and the entry it's ok to do it in the panel in the house. Else code says the green wire should run all the way back to that interrupt. "bc" haven't you learned that no matter how you do it some of us on this forum will criticize it? Haha!

 

[bc]

This is true unless they go to the same point in the service panel (doubtful) i.e. essentially double wire neutral (one wire wrong color). If there is no interrupt panel or switch between the meter and the entry it's ok to do it in the panel in the house. Else code says the green wire should run all the way back to that interrupt. "bc" haven't you learned that no matter how you do it some of us on this forum will criticize it? Haha!

Yeah I know. My mind was concentrating on replacing the existing drop at the time.

Now that I'm looking at burying some line, including from the line from the property line, I want to take a comprehensive look at every thing. Future plan is to ditch that line straight to the house/attached garage, add a meter and a 200 amp disconnect, then continue on to the outgoing line to the outbuildings when we get done with the remodeling.

Will be putting an addition on the northwest corner of the house and adding an attached garage on the southwest corner. The garage would then have the meter with all 200 amp disconnect there. The present house main panel would become a subpanel. The present overhead line coming from the property line is on the west side of the house near some trees.

Depending upon what I see at the present meter pole, maybe the house already is a sub panel. Will see. Wire cutters will be a quick fix for the drop at the house.

 

[miangus]

Very nice, I like to see conduit service entrance. I prefer galvanized steel conduit, but you meet code. In many areas I see service entrance cable used with just a weather head. Make sure that supporting insulator has a good anchor. Regarding the crimps, utilities tend to use what is cheaper and faster to Insall. With the proper crimping tool, I expect that is the crimp.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I see power co uses crimps, but as for “compatibility “, what is compatible with both copper and aluminum that is being joined? Just curious.

Jessie,
Wouldn't the power company be responsible for connecting the power to the house?

 

[muleboss]

Jessie,
Wouldn't the power company be responsible for connecting the power to the house?

Depends where the meter is, Power company only goes to meter.

 

[bc]

Depends where the meter is, Power company only goes to meter.

And power companies like Evergy where I'm at allow private companies to replace down power lines from the transformer to the meter pole, replace the pole like we had done which involves moving the meter and rewiring it. And Evergy requires private companies to put in the service drops after the meter. We have a meter on a pole inside the yard but some power companies put their meter pole at the property line and people in town or farmers in the country have to run their own lines and poles with a farm down on the south 40. It varies.

I hate meters and disconnects out at the property line where any thief with bolt cutters can cut your lock, if locked, and shut off your power from the road like at 2 am with the temperature at minus 20. You are froze up before you figure it out.

Sun is out today and I will get pics of the transformer pole and the other poles.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Depends where the meter is, Power company only goes to meter.

Why would anyone not have the meter connected to the house?
I have 6 rentals and 2 houses. All meters are connected to the house.
I don't know anyone who has a meter in a remote area except for mobile homes.
In 1985 I built a total electric home. The power company trenched a 200 amp service to the house where the meter was connected.
It didn't cost me anything.

 

[bc]

Why would anyone not have the meter connected to the house?
I have 6 rentals and 2 houses. All meters are connected to the house.
I don't know anyone who has a meter in a remote area except for mobile homes.
In 1985 I built a total electric home. The power company trenched a 200 amp service to the house where the meter was connected.
It didn't cost me anything.

It's a farm thing when the meter pole also feeds lines to various outbuildings. Common around here.

 

[bc]

Got some pics yesterday. Transformer pole by the property line. Power pole at the line going to the meter pole with lines going to the house and another going to the pole that feeds the garage and barn. Also a pic of the meter and disconnect. The meter pole has a light on top.

Can anyone look at the Transformer and tell me what kind of service it is?

Also, I see the meter has a ground but the disconnect does not. Is the meter ground the only bond needed for the whole farm? Thanks.

 

[GChief]

Why would anyone not have the meter connected to the house?

Our shed has the 200amp service and meter. The house is feed from that with a disconnect on the house with a panel in the house.

The previous owners had VT (Virgina Tech) do a wind and solar study then built out the property to be off grid, one of the resaons we bought it. The shed would have/is going to have all the system controls and batteries in it.

Not on the gouse is not uncommon back home in Ohio , go Bucs!