Skid-Steer Lever repair

Hopefully this is where I should post?? I have a New Holland skid-steer and broke one of the bucket locking levers off when trying to maneuver and get the bucket on in deep snow. I want to try and weld it and was wondering what my best chances of success were on cast iron- Nickle arc weld or Bronze Brazing? I sprung the mast through using one lock and abuse making latching hard but I think I have that fixed now.

New Lever, if I can find one are around $100.00 and up and it does not look easy to dis-assemble. I was hoping a couple hours work and it would be up again? Using a wrench on the broke end is not handy. Wish I had the hydralic locks and this would not have happened. Looking for opinions? Cleddy
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As Jim said, doubtful it's cast iron, very likely cast steel. Any mild steel electrode should do fine.
 
(quoted from post at 08:03:11 12/27/20)
As Jim said, doubtful it's cast iron, very likely cast steel. Any mild steel electrode should do fine.

Actually, if it "broke", most likely it cast iron.

I would think it would be quite rare to find such a part made of "cast steel".
 
More than likely cast iron when it broke, steel would not have snapped, the NH part # for the R/H one is 86633196 and for the L/H one 86633195, the are both on ebay,just type in the part # only for the one you want and it will bring aftermarket ones.
AJ
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:20 12/27/20)
(quoted from post at 08:03:11 12/27/20)
As Jim said, doubtful it's cast iron, very likely cast steel. Any mild steel electrode should do fine.

Actually, if it "broke", most likely it cast iron.

I would think it would be quite rare to find such a part made of "cast steel".


This gets into the metallurgy of what various items are made of. My understanding is that there is very little actual cast iron produced anymore. Most of what is produced is a steel alloy, the specifics vary widely. Steel castings are common IME. Without a test to say what it is we don't know for sure. I believe what many of us call cast iron isn't cast iron, but a form of cast steel.
 
When it broke it popped right off and flew over in deep snow? No bending at all. I will spark test it and see what
they look like. I grew up with a Dad that would repair anything. If he was around it would have been fixed by now-
nothing ever required replacing or repair after he fixed it?? I should replace it since it not much money but maybe
some challenge on the dis-assemble? cleddy
 



You can always braze it, cast or steel. I'd just be wary of what else is going to get hot with the heat required. If there is any bearings or plastic bushings in that area, it can get tricky and expensive. Been there, done that, got the the tee shirt! :lol:
 
A lot of parts are cast steel or
ductile iron, nowadays both are much
more common than cast iron
 
A lot of too are made from non ferrous metals, a lever that is operated by hand won't be made from a high grade metal of any kind, cheap and nasty more like.
AJ
 
Got my lever welded today. Whatever metal it was,I ground a "v" on both sides and a couple passes on each side and it done. That is about the cleanest metal I ever tried to weld and I think it will hold. A good lube job helped everything work better too!!Cleddy
 
(quoted from post at 21:37:58 01/05/21) Got my lever welded today. Whatever metal it was,I ground a "v" on both sides and a couple passes on each side and it done. That is about the cleanest metal I ever tried to weld and I think it will hold. A good lube job helped everything work better too!!Cleddy

Good to hear you got it welded up ok. So what did you weld it with (Which was what you were looking for suggestions to use originally.)? A cast iron rod, mild steel rod, etc.?
 
When I ground the "V" the spark was Orange-Yellow just like cast so I used the Nickel cast iron rod and it flowed so
nice one rod was all it took. I was sure it was cast but seemed to be better quality metal then Cast iron-Maybe cast
steel. The way the boom works help get the position right which is a big help for my limited ability. cleddy
 

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