Starter Solenoid

[Joe TO Fan]

My TO-20 won't run. I have pretty sure the Solenoid is toast. I can't find a replacement. ANY WHERE! I noticed that the TO-35
that has 6 Volt is and looks like the TO-20. Any one know if it will work. If not, does any one where I can get the original
Starter Solenoid.

Thanks.

 

[Duner Wi]

TO20 did not have a solenoid as delivered from factory . They did have a starter switch activated by the shift lever.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

That's interesting. whoever had it did what ever they wanted to. The starting system was disable and I never was able to make it
work. I guess he set it with the solenoid. Not what I needed to hear.

 

[RM-MN]

Since the tractor did not come with a solenoid, the one on it is one the previous owner adapted. You don't need the exact replacement, you need to return to the switch it originally had or adapt a solenoid of your choice to it.

 

[Jim.ME]

When you say your TO 20 won't run do you mean it won't run or the starter won't crank so you can't turn it over to start it? Is this a tractor you have had and was starting and running; or one you just got and are now trying to get running?

You can adapt any 6-volt 3 or 4 post solenoid; it doesn't have to be Ferguson as it is not correct having a solenoid thus no factory part listing. Or you can put it back to original with no solenoid.

Does it have an ignition switch with a start position, or a separate starter button, now? If the wiring is there from switch to solenoid it might help get a replacement.

Do you have the manuals for your TO 20? One should show proper OEM wiring and starting system function. Depending on what, if any, help you are looking for some pictures of what is in place now might help. Also, how you want to proceed, keep a solenoid or go back to OEM.

 

[wjajr]

My TO30 had been converted to use a starter motor solenoid when I got it. That unit failed and needed replacing. The one that previous owner used was from a late 40's early 50's 6 volt Ford car or light truck, and they ares still readily available for under 20 bucks.

Standard motor products # SS558 or SS571 will work.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

I have owed this for over 10 years. It won't crank so I can't turn it over to start. I pulled the starter and nothing seem to be a
problem. The tractor has a 3 post solenoid ... and a button that could start if wanted ... I had a old chevy that I could do that.

It has an ignition switch, there is a separate stater button. I will try to find a way to check the stater button.

Alas, I do not have manuals ... my bad ... guess it's time to get one. I think I will check the wiring to start to.

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 14:57:12 11/10/23) I have owed this for over 10 years. It won't crank so I can't turn it over to start. I pulled the starter and nothing seem to be a
problem. The tractor has a 3 post solenoid ... and a button that could start if wanted ... I had a old chevy that I could do that.

It has an ignition switch, there is a separate stater button. I will try to find a way to check the stater button.

Alas, I do not have manuals ... my bad ... guess it's time to get one. I think I will check the wiring to start to.

Thanks for your thoughts!

It is likely we can help you get it to crank, so you can start it, if you can supply some info. With some info we should be able to suggest a solenoid you can get at a local parts store. Do you have a voltmeter? Have you cleaned the battery posts and cable terminals? Have you cleaned the other ends of the battery cables? Dirty and/or rusty connections, on either end of the battery cables, can prevent the starter from working.

Next, you can check to see if the starter works by jumping the solenoid. MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS IN NEUTRAL. Use one cable of a booster cable to go from one large post of the solenoid to the other larger post. The starter should crank. Report back on how that goes. If it doesn't crank loosen the starter mount bolts a good bit and wiggle the starter around the drive might be bound in the ring gear.

On the starter button you have, is the wire not going to the solenoid, wired to power or ground? Does the key need to be on for the starter button to work? That should tell us if it is a grounded or insolated base solenoid to start with.

(Right now, this step is guessing your starter button supplies power not ground to the solenoid.) If the starter turned, using the booster cable between the solenoid's two big posts, you can use a small jumper wire to try supplying power from the Battery cable post of the solenoid to the small post of the solenoid. If the starter turns using the small jumper the solenoid is working and the problem is likely the starter button or wire from the button to solenoid.

 

[Duner Wi]

Some TO20s had the ring gear installed so the starter could move the ring gear rearward thereby fouling inside the bell housing. This made flywheel unable to rotate. More common on 12 volt conversions.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

Ok, the stater button was shot. Will spent most of today trying to come up with a new one. No luck, found just what I need on
Amazon, so that will have to wait. Starter was wired both to solenoid and ground. I assume that I need to figure out which is
correct. Any suggestion on that?

I will try the trick you suggested, seems fairly simple. Never thought about that.

It's getting cold and late, will have to wait to tomorrow Thanks for all your help!

 

[Joe TO Fan]

I still have 6 volt. Never had a problem before, but who knows!

Thanks.

 

[Jim.ME]

Did you mean starter or starter button was wired to the solenoid and to ground? If the starter button has one terminal wired to ground and the other terminal wired to the small terminal on the solenoid, it indicates you have an insulated base solenoid, with an internal connection between the large battery post of the solenoid and the coil that pulls the contacts closed, sending power to the starter. If that is how it is wired you need to connect the use the small jumper wire between a good ground point and the small terminal. Not between power and the small terminal as I suggested before for a grounded base solenoid.

 

[Tom H.]

Heres a picture out of the parts manual showing the shifter operation starter. Hopefully you still have the mechanism in the tractor. Let us know.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

Obviously I don't have most of all of those pieces you showed me. I wondered what was that big blob was for. So now I understand what many talk about. I have no idea why someone would get rid of it all. Looks to me that would work better than what I have.

Thanks.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

Yes, just like you said. That helped me to understand. Now waiting for the a good piece to show up.

 

[Tom H.]

Quick question, whats left? Did someone cover the hole? Is the linkage still there? The safety feature of the shifter start is you can never start in gear.

Let us know what you have so we can help . You may have the linkage there and just need to put it back to original.

Tom

 

[Joe TO Fan]

It's all gone. Only the part that coverers the hole'. The linkage is gone. Safety feature of the shifter start gone.

As an note of interest is I have owed it for at least 10 years. Since the stuff is gone, I've never seen any of that stuff. I noticed by others talked about all that and always wondered I didn't have it.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Is it a makeshift cover? Or original with terminals/switch and did you pull it to look inside for the rest of parts?

Post a picture.

 

[Joe TO Fan]

I opened up the cover. Inside I saw something that couple be moved a small amount. As I've said before, there are no more pieces.

 

[Tom H.]

This is the part you need. I think youll have to spit the tractor to get it installed.
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