Styled G Clutch...HELP!!!!!!!!!

[PappapsG]

Gentlemen;

I am in the final stretch of completing the restoration of my late Grandfather's 1950 G SER# 44495. I have worked this creature over from top to bottom. I assembled the clutch, and have tried every un natural act known to man and beast and it will not "snap" when trying to adjust it. The endplay on the flywheel is set to .010". The drive disk is new and has .125" hanging past the end of the crank splines, with a total runout on the face of .003". The Pulley assembly has a new bearing and bushing in it. the crank has a new race. The T-bolts were in good shape. The sliding sleeve has less than .125" rotational play(possible culprit). I looked at the dogs, and they appeared fine. I installed a complete clutch facing kit from WTR parts, which included the dual sided plate, the inner and outer floating plates and new springs and nuts. The clutch will not "snap" over when adjusted, and even with the brake backed all the way off, when adjusted too far, you can't turn the pulley with the lever disengaged. I have a call in to Mike Williams in Iowa and am awaiting a return call. I am really frustrated and I desperately need some advice.

Regards

Eric

Cell is 330-401-9224

 

[Mike M]

Does the G clutch plate have seperate pins to slide over or does it goe over the adjusting bolts ? If so are they over the pins and not the bolts ? If the adjusting bolts have the cotter pins that hold the bolts from falling out of position sometimes they can catch binding stuff up if not bent just so.

With the pulley brake backed off and lever disengaged ( back ) the back facing will pinch causing a bind up condition. So that brake has to be adjusted. You should be able to feel the spot as you rotate the pulley by hand and at the same time move the lever slowly forward where the back facing releases and then the pulley moves freely and then again as the facings start to compress.

When I adjust a clutch I engage it first then draw up the 3 nuts evenly then use an old beam type torque wrench so i can watch them evenly torque up to about 10 to 15 ft. lbs. each then it usually works and snaps about right.

 

[PappapsG]

Mike;

The clutch plate goes over the bolts. no pins involved there. I did put new keys in, I guess I could rebend the keys. I also noticed that that the you can move the pulley approximately .375" - .500" laterally. I am absolutley perplexed by this. Thanks for your rapid response.

Regards

Eric

 

[Mike M]

With the clutch disengaged you will be able to get alot of back and forth play on the pulley. You need some of this so it can disengage. Some of it will go away when the pulley brake is final adjusted.

The operating sleeve play doesn't sound too excessive ? but who knows ? if bad they can cause a good adjustment one time then it changes .

 

[johndeereman]

i had this same trouble with my a the tin splash guard was too tight on the oil slinger the tin is bolted to the 5&6 gear cover i had to gring some off mine so the pulley would turn inside

 

[PappapsG]

Mike,

Should the clutch plate(the outer most casting to which the three springs are attached) ride freely on the clutch adjusting bolts?

Eric

 

[Mike M]

Yes it should.

 

[Mike M]

I don't know where or how much you ground off , but it sounds scary to me as that tin is all that helps seal the oil in.
These are usually corrected from rubbing by centering it. You loosen the bolts holding it on enough so you can move it when tapped with a rubber hammer. Put the pulley back on and shove it all the way back while roatating it and tap that plate until it turns free with little to no rubbing sounds. Then carefully remove the pulley and tighten the bolts and lock wire them.

 

[Ben.So.Tex]

My G would not snap over and I was out of thread on the bolts. So took it back off and took one of the old free floating clutch plate"s and installed it side by side to the new outer most plate and now it has snap and has been working fine for the last 2 yrs. That was my fix, Maybe not right, but it works.
Good luck Ben

 

[gloria7]

are you checking end play engaging clutch, maybe you have more end play than you think ensure it is what you think. I had trouble with my 60 with the belt pulley there is 2 pieces to it and they are press fit togeather, the inner portion moved out of the belt pulley and the clutch gave trouble.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Well someone else has the same problem that I have had trying to fix for last 2 months I have done same thing with no luck When you solve your problem it will solve mine Im sure I can bottom out my three adjusting nuts and still not have a snap Need to put alot of pressure on stick to even get PTO to spin Ric Tampa Fl

 

[charles lendman]

Based on Ben in So Texas reply he may have hit on it...sounds like a "stack height" issue..check the clutch discs and see if there both close to the same thickness...within spec ..one may be all the way to the max and the other to the middle and when you put it all togather it's too thick to snap in? Just and FYi...i have a G so I'll be interested in the solution too!! Charles

 

[Mike M]

If you have all the correct facings and in the correct order your bolts could be stretched or facings and plates too thin. I'd try putting some machinery washers under the nuts and see if it adjusts up.

 

[Anonymous-0]

check your sliding disk (double sided disk) some of the new after market ones the holes that slide over your bolts are to small. had this before on my G,& 70, compare it to your old one drilled out the holes so that it moves free on the ajuster bolts end of problem.