Super M LP

[62c100]

I have recently purchased a Super M LP. Everything runs out good, I am just not familiar with the LP system. What I need to know is the correct usage of the vapor/liquid valves. When I test drove it and was looking at it, we just opened the vapor valve. In other words when do you use the vapor only and when do you use the liquid valve? Would you ever have the liquid and vapor valve open at the same time? I would assume not but just trying to cover all bases. Thanks in advance.

 

[Bob M]

I'm unfamiliar with the SM LP system. I however regularly run a Minnie-Mo G-LPG in winter weather. Gotta think the starting procedure is the same for your tractor:

1 - Open the vapor valve

2 - Set governor handle to about 1/4

3 - Turn on ignition, pull the enrichment ("choke") knob and hit the starter

4 - Soon as the engine fires push the enrichment knob back in

5 - Let the engine run a few minutes to warm the vaporizer. Then close the vapor valve and open the liquid valve. You are now good to go.

----

To shut down, close the liquid valve and let the engine run until it quits. Don't forget to turn off the ignition after the engine stops(!)

 

[John A.]

62c100, LP tractors are usually started on Vapor. and for a lot of the time "Vapor" will work just fine in a No Load/Light Load situation.
In a Heavy Load situation,Like pulling a 3 botton breaking plow after the engine has reached Operating Temp the Liquid is used!. Roading/Parading or light pulling times the vapor side will work just fine. My Farmall 656 LP is that way.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.

 

[Old-F20]

Ive went through two full tanks plowing in one day with my 450LP and NEVER used liquid. ran fine the whole day on vapor pulling a 4-16 #412 plow

 

[CenTex Farmall]

It's just as John A. is saying. If you follow the lines you'll see that the liquid and vapor lines both hook together at the filter. Starting on the vapor valve is helpful in cold weather and you can do light work with just the vapor valve open. When operating at a heavy load you need to be able to generate a lot of BTU so you want to draw liquid off the tank and let the vaporizer work on it.

It's possible for the LP tractor to keep running but be too lean if you have a high load situation with just the vapor valve open. I have seen a couple of burned up exhaust manifolds on LP tractors.

I usually start on the vapor valve and after a few minutes open the liquid valve. For shut down I like to shut the liquid off a minute or two before I'm parked and allow the liquid in the lines to vaporize and be used.

It wouldn't hurt to shut it down and then close the valves, but inevitable the liquid in the lines will vaporize and seep out and represents an economic loss. (translation: I'm being miserly!)

In the hot summer I can start right away on the liquid valve.

 

[62c100]

I'm listening, I'm listening! So when I go to work it some and get it warmed up on the vapor I CLOSE the vapor valve and OPEN the liquid valve???? In other words if I were to be discing with it I would have the liquid valve ONLY open???

 

[Bob M]

Yes - liquid valve open, vapor valve closed when operating under load.

 

[Anonymous-0]

IH says in the manual for my 350LP to never leave fuel in the carb/vaporizor. Unless it is an emergency shutdown, turn the fuel off and let it die, then turn ignition off. It runs longer after the liquid valve is shut off than it does if just running on vapor, so I generally switch to vapor when heading back to the tractor shed with it.

FWIW, I treat my gas engines the same way - lawn mowers, tillers, and my JD 420 gas all get the fuel shut off and then the ignition turned off after they die. Old floats have a way of sticking, and flooding engine crankcase.

 

[CenTex Farmall]

Yes

To think about it simply, the goal is to have maximum BTU available if the engine needs it. The LP carb only meters a gas and we use the vaporizer as a compact way to provide heat to boil liquid propane to produce enough gas.

 

[CenTex Farmall]

Also you'll want to fix up a nurse tank in case you get low in the field. There will be a "T" under there that has one leg capped off. It is a flair fitting. You should be able to find a ready made propane hose with that flair on one end and the other end setup to go on a BBQ tank.

When you hook it up just make sure your tank valves are closed and then open the BBQ tank and off you go.

 

[62c100]

Got a couple of pics to post of it. Decals coming in today so I can get that taken care of this weekend.

 

[62c100]

What would be the suggested spark plug gap for an LP? Seems like I read maybe .020 or .019. I put a set in today and gapped them on .020 since that is what the old ones were set at. Got just a little miss.

I looked at the points and they did have a film on them so I worked on them with some fine sandpaper and that seemed to help some. I really think a new set would be lots better along with a new condenser. Probably been a while since any of that has been changed.

 

[62c100]

Just a little tune up update. I changed the plugs and gapped them at .020 since that is what the old plugs were set at last weekend. Engine still had a little flutter to it. Today I started with the plug wires, rotor and distributor cap. No change. In the mean time I had two extra sets of plugs. I gapped one set at .015 and then I gapped the other at .025 and I'll get back to that in a minute. So, next take the condensor and points out and replace them. Thought I could eye ball the points back to about where they were......not!!! At that point it got worse as I had the breaking point to far apart. I slid them in a little and much better. I took the .020 guage that came with them and fine tuned the point gap where it needed to be and everything was much better. Which tells me, the old points may have just needed adjusting, so I didn't throw them away.



So, I decided at this point to expiriment with the plugs. I put the .015 gapped plugs in and didn't like that at all. It just ran rough. So I pulled them and put the .025 plugs in. That must have been the sweet spot for this one. Just seemed to put the finishing touch on it in addition the points getting replaced and adjusted properly. I'm sleeping better tonight.





Now got to see if I got a fuel leak somewhere when this thing is running. May not as I'm not familiar with how much of a gas hog these things are. For example, when I got it home little over a week ago, it had 95 percent in the tank. I've run it up and down the road a few times and been running around in the pasture several times. I cranked it up several times last weekend while fooling with the plugs and a few times today. I'm now down to 45 percent. I hate to see what it's going to do when I hook it up to a 7 ft bushog.



It does not leak anything with it shut off and all the valves are closed of course.



Also, now have the decals on it.