tea 20 Carb Q.

I just did a manifold gasket on my TO20/30 engine. Check manifold well. I found I needed a manifold too. When you have the manifold off, take a grinder to it so you can better get the wrenches on the mounting nuts. They are a PITA. Mark the spots when you are taking the nuts off, or test fit a replacement manifold first.

1 to20 manifold 4.jpg1 felpro.jpg

Felpro made good gaskets but discontinued, found NOS one on Ebay. Not sure how far your tear down will be? A whole set my be better to have.
 
Bolts holding manifold were not all tight M-F, so ran them up.
If I have to take it off, l will do as you suggest!
Waiting for exhaust gasket.
When l get that, will try him and see if manifold blowing.
If all ok, play with carb, and if still messing about, will get a kit for it and go from there!

Best,
R.
 
Bolts holding manifold were not all tight M-F, so ran them up.
If I have to take it off, l will do as you suggest!
Waiting for exhaust gasket.
When l get that, will try him and see if manifold blowing.
If all ok, play with carb, and if still messing about, will get a kit for it and go from there!

Best,
R.

I thought I had a bad gasket until I got the manifold off. If I remember only could get socket on two nuts the rest needed a box end. The new manifold was worse, I should have done a test fit and ground off tight spots. By then I'd already painted the manifold............also found the aftermarket manifold interfered with the throttle rod connection at the carb, had to grind that spot...............there is pictures on my Franken- Ferguson thread

Check over the linkage to the carb and governor arm while you have carb/manifold off, all should move free.
 
M-F,
My manifold seems in good order, and also the nuts are OK to get a spanner on. Socket fits. Not cramped.
I had the throttle rod out as the grip washer was kaput, so made one. The choke rod is ok as well.
Hopefully I can go pick up that exhaust gasket tomorrow.

Just thinking, yours is a TO isn't it?
This being a TEA may be a difference in manifold. (Standard engine rather than Continental.)_
 
M-F,
My manifold seems in good order, and also the nuts are OK to get a spanner on. Socket fits. Not cramped.
I had the throttle rod out as the grip washer was kaput, so made one. The choke rod is ok as well.
Hopefully I can go pick up that exhaust gasket tomorrow.

Just thinking, yours is a TO isn't it?
This being a TEA may be a difference in manifold. (Standard engine rather than Continental.)_

Yes TO-30 Continental Z-129 engine.

I forgot the TEAs had the Standard engines. I guess their "Engineeers" thought more of the mechanics working on them when they made the manifold casting (pun intended).
 
Well done on the clean up !
I'm at Lake Como at the moment , haven't been able to log on for a week .
When re fitting the manifold use brass nuts if you can . They save hours of grief and heartache if you need to remove them in the future . Its also worth changing the studs if you can as the threads wear and won't hold the nut well . These nuts need re torquing regularly , even the steel versions . For some reason the TEA manifold works loose over time and the result is warping and erosion requiring re facing if the nuts aren't snugged every so often .
 
Good morning Charles,
I just tightened the slack nuts on manifold for now and she doesn't seem to be blowing.
Will keep your recommendations in mind though!
Squared the end of exhaust where it fits manifold, and fitted a new gasket.
No blowing there now either.
I don't know id it's just carb needs setting, but she starts up realy nicely with no choke, and runs well, but if I open the throttle either nothing changes, or she slows like going to bog out , just like too much choke.
Not had time to fiddle with it yet..
 
That sounds very much like a governor issue . Look up ' Bundy Bears Shed' on YouTube for instructions on setting it , it's a complicated procedure . The governor also has a bump screw adjustment at the side of the timing chain cover, a slack and worn chain will not allow you to adjust things properly . Adjust the bump screw first , if that doesn't work look at a new chain and governor weight assembly ( not very expensive and available as a kit ).
 
Good morning Charles,
As it's snowed again I might get time to mess with it a bit.
I will just check throttle linkage first, as I had all that hauled out to make a friction disk and fit.
I tried to put it back exactly as it was, but need to check.
Then, it'll be Bundy Bears time!
I don't have a manual as I bought and paid for one that never did turn up.
Will keep you posted!

Richard.

PS,
Does the bump screw tighten the chain, Charles?
 
The bump screw acts as a back lash limiter , not really a tensioner . The engine really could do with a proper system , a lapse in design .
There are links to manuals at the Grey Fergie Forum Web site , you will find them in the downloads section , the FE35 manual will be the same engine wise .
 
Another thought Charles,
Up to now l have been running it with the rocker cover off to make sure the top end was getting lube.
Q,
Will this be affecting engine revs when opening the throttle?, as the breather is also not connected to the cover of ccours.

Thank you in advance,

Richard
Will check on the downloads you mention!
 
It's been a while since I tried this Richard . From memory it will run a little faster without the rocker breather valve , particularly in the TED engines made to run on Kerosene.
 
Thanks for that Charles.
Work on this has to only take a bit of my time, as spring farm stuff in upon us here.
That and back legs not working right cuts a hole in my days!

I need to figure out if I am getting enough oil up onto the rocker shaft/ arms. It takes a while to get oozing from all the ports, so that is a reason no cover on the rocker yet.

Thanks again for all your help!
I did have a diagram of this carb, with intial settings but lost it.
Mine has the knurled wheel for main jet, and have seen basic settings on line from open one turn, to open four turns!
They can't all be right.
I Must find another manual.
I would prefer a proper one rather than a download, as I can then use it in the tractor shed.

ATB,
Richard.
PS,
Is the best manual to get the one sold here on this site?
Thanks!
 
One and one half turns from closed as an initial stting on the main jet of a Zenith 24t. Before you do too much else be certain the air filter is clean . Washing in petrol won't be enough. Drill out the spot welds on the grill under the canister , carefully withdraw and unroll the mesh and clean before replacing . Use pop rivets in place of the welds. This is an example of how bad they can get .
 

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Will check that again Charles, but had it off and it looked clean after I got done with it.
I think someone did a lot of work on this, but then is sat for a coones age, and not finished.

Will keep you posted!
 
Will check that again Charles, but had it off and it looked clean after I got done with it.
I think someone did a lot of work on this, but then is sat for a coones age, and not finished.

Will keep you posted!
I've been travelling around Lake Como italy for a few weeks Richard . Time for the 36 hour flight home . Back on line in a few days .
 
Morning all,
My 1954 TEA -20 has a cracked carb body.
Just getting it ready to try, as I got it in seized condition.
My Q is,
If this carb is not going to work, does anyone know what the carbs are like we see on Amazon for the TEA 20?
THey seem a bit less expensive that those out of the UK.
But,
Are they any good?

Thanks in advance for any help.

all best,
Richard.
I use these settings as per these pictures on my TEA-20.
 

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