THANK YOU: RE: Farmall M Carb

Well I spend a very enjoyable afternoon yesterday cleaning and rebuilding the carb for my M. THANK YOU all for the encouragement.

The hardest and most time-consuming part was getting all the gunk off the outside. I didn't dare take the thing apart with all the gunk on it. I literally had to scrape it all over, as the gunk had hardened into a brown-ish rock-like coating. I've got the air cleaner housing soaking in degreaser. Hopefully all the gunk that got into the screens will come out. Maybe, she'll breathe better.

I also discovered why my M ran like $#!t. There was no gasket between the float seat and the carb body. No wonder she tended to flood. The packing on the high-speed setting was so tight, I never did get an accurate seat on the high speed setting to adjust 3-turns out. So, it was about a half-inch out. It is a wonder she ran at all. It took some doing to get all that old packing out, too. The throttle plate was difficult to turn, so it is no wonder she was not very responsive to changing conditions. It looked as if there were remnants of 3 different gaskets between the halves of the carb body. That took some scraping, but explained why she always leaked. The choke was very sticky, because of gunk build-up around the choke shaft. It works much better now. Of course, I dropped the detent ball from the choke. It is somewhere in the gravelly sand under my desk (I cannot afford concrete yet). I'm sure I'll find it today. I'll use a magnet, something I thought of doing while washing up last night.

Well, I have high hopes of firing her up today. Then, I can use my front loader to lift my new A-frame hoist onto its feet.

Rather cool. My neighbor has a 1950 Farmall M with a Farmhand F11B loader on it. I've got a 1951 Farmall M with a Farmhand F11B loader on it. This is semi-suburbia, not real farm country. So, it is somewhat surprising that two neighbors have such similar setups. His has a cracked hub, to the point where a big chunk of metal is missing. He's talking about getting another paint-job, even though his tractor's paint looks OK to me. I've got some hairline hub cracks, and I'm talking to my wife about getting new hubs (which is why I got the A-frame hoist), despite the fact that my tractor is badly painted with a used-pea-soup green color. For me, safety first. Another neighbor about a half-mile away has a flat fendered Farmall (I didn't catch the number) and a pre-letter series Farmall, too.

Anyway, I wanted to [b:654c4848f0]**[u:654c4848f0]THANK YOU[/u:654c4848f0]**[/b:654c4848f0] for the advice and encouragement! You are all the best people!
 
I have an old motor on a bench with an 8 inch wire brush on it. It"s a "softer" brush, you can actually get your finger in it without getting hurt. I use this on carb bodies after the soak.
A daisy BB is the same size as that ball you lost, if you don"t mind the copper color:)
Sounds like you did a nice job on the carb.

Gordo
 
It is not critical to have that detent ball for the choke lever. 99% of the carbs that I rebuild are missing that ball when I get them, and they obviously have been running that way for several decades. I always put one in, but only because the carb is not 100% correct without it. Also, There is nothing wrong with dunking the fully assembled carb into the bucket of carb cleaner. Usually makes the dis-assembly process much easier.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top