Goose
Well-known Member
On a couple of other threads, I’ve mentioned converting two H Farmalls from 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground. I did both using kits from YT Parts. The photo shows the final installation on the second one.
The one I really wanted done was the second one, but it has a bucket loader on it and I anticipated having a hard time doing it because all of the hydraulics for the loader are right in the area where you work on the conversion. So, I did the first one for experience, thinking it would make it easier to do the second one. And it did.
But, still they were different. The first one had the 6v voltage regulator mounted on the generator. And as I had completely rewired it several years ago I was able to simply re-purpose most of the existing wiring.
The second one had the voltage regulator mounted under the fuel tank, and the wiring was so bad I simply pulled all of the old wiring off of it and started from scratch. The old insulation was so bad some of it simply fell off while I was removing the wires.
There are plusses and minuses with the YT kit.
Plusses:
The Hitachi alternator has an internal voltage regulator, it’s rated at 53 amps peak, and it’s small enough to fit under an H’s hood and use the original drive belt with room for belt adjustment.
The hardware and bolts that come with the kit are easily put together into a bracket that mounts the alternator in the right place.
Minuses:
The most charitable thing I can say about the printed instructions that come with the kit are they are pathetic. Incomplete, mis-directed, and actually confusing. They totally ignore the fact that a diode or small indicator light to “excite” the alternator needs to be connected from the “L” connector to the 12v side of the resistor. I used a tiny indicator light that mounted in an unused existing 5/16” hole in the bracket. (Some say to connect it to the “On” side of the ignition switch, but the 12v side of the resistor is electrically the same and saves running another wire back to the ignition switch).
The plug that comes with the kit for the “S” and “L: connectors on the back of the alternator only has one wire and connector for the “S” connector and is blank for the “L: connector. I tried a generic plug with both wires that should have worked but I couldn’t get it to plug in properly. I simply plugged two female spade connectors into the alternator.
The resistor that comes with the kit has male spade connectors. Since my method of doing the conversion put 3 connectors on the 12v end of the resistor, I ordered a resistor with screw connectors.
Anyway, both conversions are done and working properly. It’s startling how much quicker the engines start. I have yet another H, but the 6v system is working IK so I’ll let it alone.
Why do I have 3 Hs? I guess you can never have too many. A frined of mine, now deceased had a cow ranch in the Sandhills north of Ogalalla, Nebraska. He had 6 Hs, each with a specific job on the ranch. He always swore they were still the handiest tractor for putting up hay.
The one I really wanted done was the second one, but it has a bucket loader on it and I anticipated having a hard time doing it because all of the hydraulics for the loader are right in the area where you work on the conversion. So, I did the first one for experience, thinking it would make it easier to do the second one. And it did.
But, still they were different. The first one had the 6v voltage regulator mounted on the generator. And as I had completely rewired it several years ago I was able to simply re-purpose most of the existing wiring.
The second one had the voltage regulator mounted under the fuel tank, and the wiring was so bad I simply pulled all of the old wiring off of it and started from scratch. The old insulation was so bad some of it simply fell off while I was removing the wires.
There are plusses and minuses with the YT kit.
Plusses:
The Hitachi alternator has an internal voltage regulator, it’s rated at 53 amps peak, and it’s small enough to fit under an H’s hood and use the original drive belt with room for belt adjustment.
The hardware and bolts that come with the kit are easily put together into a bracket that mounts the alternator in the right place.
Minuses:
The most charitable thing I can say about the printed instructions that come with the kit are they are pathetic. Incomplete, mis-directed, and actually confusing. They totally ignore the fact that a diode or small indicator light to “excite” the alternator needs to be connected from the “L” connector to the 12v side of the resistor. I used a tiny indicator light that mounted in an unused existing 5/16” hole in the bracket. (Some say to connect it to the “On” side of the ignition switch, but the 12v side of the resistor is electrically the same and saves running another wire back to the ignition switch).
The plug that comes with the kit for the “S” and “L: connectors on the back of the alternator only has one wire and connector for the “S” connector and is blank for the “L: connector. I tried a generic plug with both wires that should have worked but I couldn’t get it to plug in properly. I simply plugged two female spade connectors into the alternator.
The resistor that comes with the kit has male spade connectors. Since my method of doing the conversion put 3 connectors on the 12v end of the resistor, I ordered a resistor with screw connectors.
Anyway, both conversions are done and working properly. It’s startling how much quicker the engines start. I have yet another H, but the 6v system is working IK so I’ll let it alone.
Why do I have 3 Hs? I guess you can never have too many. A frined of mine, now deceased had a cow ranch in the Sandhills north of Ogalalla, Nebraska. He had 6 Hs, each with a specific job on the ranch. He always swore they were still the handiest tractor for putting up hay.
