Using Regulars and F-20s

LenNH

Member
A while back, I wrote in, asking people who had used the old stuff on farms to describe what they were like. I wrote about the 10 or more years I had spent on a steel-wheeled 10-20, and a lot of people wrote in their experiences, as well.
Well, here goes another. I got to use fairly extensively a "Regular" Farmall that belonged to a neighbor, and an F-20 that shuttled back and forth between my father's farm and a cousin's place. Both tractors were on 36" rubber.
First of all, the original steel wheels were 40" in diameter, and the maximum speed of both tractors in high gear (3 on the Regular, 4 on the F-20) was around 4 mph (believe you me, that is about as fast as you can stand on lugs, and also about as fast as a steel-wheeled tractor will pull anything besides itself and maybe a spike-toothed harrow). The 36" tires moved the diameter up to 48" or 50" (my estimate), so there is a substantial increase in ground speed. I estimate almost 3 in first, almost 4 in second, about 4.5 in third on the F-20, and well over 5 in high on both tractors. The result of this change was that, since rubber tires waste less power, either of the tractors would pull the same 2-14" plow or 7-foot double disk in second at nearly 4 mph instead of 3. The faster speed meant a lot more work in a day. The other side of the equation is that these tractors are rough-riders, partly because the seat sticks out the back and you get to go up and down like a seesaw. I never got to drive one of these on steel, but my experience with the 10-20 suggests that at the normal 3 mph work speed, the ride wouldn't have seen so aggressive, even though you could feel the lugs penetrate the soil. Because of the increased speed, and because both tractors had steering that kicked back easily, you had to be holding on if you were in rutted ground. Dropping the front wheels into a rut or into a furrow could result in having the big, heavy iron wheel spin around like a flywheel. Could even hurt your arm if you were resting your forearms on the spokes while you were daydreaming about fishing like Huck Finn, or (blush) about some girl in your class who didn't know you existed (my case most of the time).
These tractors were designed in the "old way"--big engine, running very slowly. Result, not a great amount of h.p., but a LOT of torque. I remember vividly trying to make the F-20 plow in fourth gear (well over 5 mph!). It had so much torque that it would not stall, even though the engine would pull down to maybe half speed. Try that with an H--she'd die on you as soon as you let the clutch out.
The massive construction meant that almost nothing ever went wrong with these tractors (in my experience, at least). Huge gears, huge engine, huge crankshaft, and so on. There wasn't much to take care of: oil level, using those awful petcocks at the side of the oil pan (they usually got twisted off when somebody with a pair of pliers decided they weren't tight enough); a few grease fittings to service, AND shooting some oil on the felt wicks that lubed the valves--this at least a daily ritual.
Tractors back in the 20s and 30s were not usually designed with the operator in mind. The Regular followed this philosophy: Find a place for the driver, wherever there isn't anything else. Anybody who has spent time on a Regular of F-20 will remember that there was no comfortable place for the feet, that the gearshift lever required a pretty good reach (I used to use my foot to shift from second to third!), and that the placement of the seat meant a lot of bouncing up and down.
The governor on both tractors was of the "full-on or nothing" variety (IHC did put a variable governor on the F-20 late in life---sometime about 1938, I think--you can check SN if you're interested in when this happened). On the old governor (common to Regular, F-20, F-30, 10-20, 15-30, W-30 and so on until the change I just mentioned), when you throttled back, you got no governing. If the engine slowed down when you went up a slope, you had to add a little more gas with the not-very-sensitive hand lever. If it speeded up going down grade, you had to reduce power, and so on. I guess the designers were thinking of tractors as either all-on or all-off: full-speed ahead for plowing, full-speed to run the thresher. What about raking hay, pulling a haywagon through the field slowly in front of a loader, running a small belt-driven machine that couldn't take full speed from the huge belt pulley?
The unmuffled noise from those big engines was great to hear, but probably not too good for the ear drums. We finally put a muffler on the
F-20, and that made the sound pleasant and bearable.
Automatic steering brakes meant that you almost never had to use hand or foot brakes for turning. In fact, until IH put foot brakes on the F-20 and F-30 around 1938, there was no way to apply the right brake by hand or foot (as you might want to do if a wheel got to spinning).
I can remember to this day the sound and feel of these old beasts. I loved 'em then, and I love 'em now, but no, I wouldn't want to farm with one. The cousin who owned the F-20 eventually bought a brand-new Super H, and his first comment was, "Boy, just like driving a car!" That just about says it all.
How about experiences of others who have farmed with these?
 
Thanks for posting that. My experiences with steel wheels are many, but only playing some every year, plowing, etc. Seems like as time went by, you can sure feel every lug go in through your back.
 
Thanks Len, I do enjoy hearing from people that had to use these tractors for real. By the time I came along there were still a few around with a Farmhand or running an auger but that is about it. I bought my first F20 in about '74, it had been the only tractor on a small farm until about '71. I'm really taken with F30's now, they were the big horse I always heard about. Showing my F30N on steel this summer I had about three guys say to me that they "just had no fond memories of F30s". They all were just little kids when they got stuck on them to help out on the farm, and claimed they were just too big and hard to handle for a little kid. One of my nieghbors told me a story of having to chisel 40 acres with my grandfather's borrowed F30, said it was horrible punishment for a 10 year old kid.
 
Len
Remember well driving the 10-20 on steel & Regular on rubber.
Dad had rubber put on the Regular around 49 or 50. Had the spokes cut off & rims welded on. Used 36's so the rim just cleared the top of the brake drum. Bigger wheel made it run "down hil". Dad thought that would be bad for oil pressure, so had a spacer welded into the steering post below the lower bearing, but above the wheel spindles. That made it sit level. Shop did bad welding job, broke off once. On second try, had 3/4 in dowel pins put in the spacer before welding. That held.
My favorite job was cutting oats. With a "suicide" knob & brake cable set right, could cut a perfect square corner. Of course, with the binder seat sticking out back, Dad got a wild ride on the corners.
Had rubber on front of the 10-20. Plowing was easy. Just cut the wheel a tad to the left so tire scrubbed the edge of furrow, it would follow across the field. If we got tired, & Dad wasn't watching, my brother & I would sometimes set it up, then get off & walk along side for a while.
memories of the 50's
Willie
 
Len,Im a collector of F series Farmalls,I will challenge any one to show me a tractor that will steer any easier than a F series tractor exspecially on front steel,I never grew up on F series tractors but it only took one round with my cleated Farmall regular to find a bystander during our local plow day

jimmy
 
I can remember using grandpas 38 F-20 in the 60's. I plowed with it some, and cultivated with it a couple of years. Dad had a platform on the drawbar and when plowing or discing I would stand up on it beside the seat. More comfortable than sitting on the seat. The cultivator was a hand lift, and dad wire checked the corn at that time so we cultivated it cross the field the second cultivation. A couple of his fields were 120 rods long and 20 rods wide, so there was a lot of turning when crossing it.
 
I can remember using grandpas 38 F-20 in the 60's. I plowed with it some, and cultivated with it a couple of years. Dad had a platform on the drawbar and when plowing or discing I would stand up on it beside the seat. More comfortable than sitting on the seat. The cultivator was a hand lift, and dad wire checked the corn at that time so we cultivated it cross the field the second cultivation. A couple of his fields were 120 rods long and 20 rods wide, so there was a lot of turning when crossing it.
 
I used a regular to clear and plow a old unused field about 30 years ago. I got a jd rope trip plow and hooked the tractor up to it. The hitch was welded back together but not quite good enough. I had a good piece of 3/8 in rope to trip the plow with. One day the hitch broke and I had the rope tied so I couldnt drop it. The slack was laid across my left thigh. The rope came tight just as I realized what was going on. I tried to lift my left leg to push the clutch in but the tight rope stopped me. Then the rope was pulling the plow sideways behind me, and the rope was bearing down on my leg quite hard. The rope started to work its way down my leg toward my knee. I thought it would just go down toward my foot and I would be free of the rope. What did happen was the rope dug in under my knee cap and I thought the rope was going to pop my knee cap off. After a few seconds of that terror the rope finally jumped up over my knee cap and I managed to get the tractor stopped and headed for the house and elevated my knee on the couch and Iced it down. I learned a few lessons that day. I managed without going to the doctor but I know i was very lucky that day.
 
I enjoyed this! As I was growing up we had a 9N Ford and a Regular. I always loved the Regular. I remember one time we had a good wheat crop. We bought an old allis chalmers pto combine. The ford didn't have enough weight/traction to pull it up tiny hills, so I got to use the regular. I loved it!

What a task to crank start that old regular for a kid of about ten! I also learned (the hard way) that you could re-start it on tractor fuel (distillate) if you did it within a couple of minutes of shutting it off. But if you tried later, it was gonna be awful! You'd finally have to drain the carburetor, open the gasoline starting tank valve, and then be prepared to crank for a heck of a long time because the plugs would be wet with tractor fuel/distillate.

One time my older brother stuck a pitchfork into one of the holes on the side of the drawbar. As he was driving, the pitchfork tine caught onto the rear tire. Before he could stop, the pitchfork sliced the tire for about a two foot length. Dad hunted long and hard for 36" tires (because everything then was 38") and finally found a used pair of 13+ inch tires. I thought they"d be great because of the greater speed -- wrong! The regular no longer had enough power to pull in second for heavy work and the increase in ground travel in third was just slightly faster than a three legged turtle could crawl. Thanks for the memories.
 
I agree that the steering on these tractors was easy, and especially smooth on the F-20 with the worm steering gear. I believe the iron steering wheel was part of it--acted like a flywheel. I've driven F-12s with both iron and rubber steering wheels, and only the iron wheel could be "spun." A few years ago, I acquired an F-20 with a wheel off an H (those very thin, light wheels), and it could not be spun, either.
The Regular, with those straight gears, had no resistance to kickback. The F-20 had some, but maybe because of the way it was designed (big worm, big teeth in the gear wheel?), it also was subject to kickback in rutted ground.
Both these tractors with iron steering wheels seemed to have some "life" in the steering, something I don't recall feeling in the later tractors with thin rubber steering wheels.
Maybe I'm a romantic and am imagining things.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top