Welder review

7018, if done correctly, is practically self-cleaning, as to the slag cover. Most of the time, the slag just falls off. If your weld, even with 7018, has pits and inclusions in it, then it can be problematic to clean. I have some recently done 7018 welds with inclusions and slag in the weld; I will have to grind it out and do it right. Seems the base metal has some rust or other debris on it, which I failed to clean off. :oops:
Might not even be your base metal cleanliness, or technique...........................7018 can be very unpredictable when arc blow is involved. Sometimes you're getting mild arc blow even though it's not readily apparent. Plays Hell with the puddle.

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And extreme case of arc blow. It literally destroyed the puddle, and pushed it away from the gusset. This was unusual in the fact that I was welding AWAY from a corner. Usually you encounter arc blow welding towards a corner. This was a grind out, and redo.

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Yet another case of arc blow where you wouldn't expect it. It's a weld on a surrounding piece of plate. No corners, no edges near the weld. You can see where the weld started to fall apart. It will make you want to pull your hair out at times.

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Weld on the left side of pic had severe arc blow, and was ground out, and redone. Very often, the second go-round will lay in nicely. Something about the previous pass changing something in the magnetic properties?? Arc blow can get pretty violent, as indicated by the huge dingle berries.

There are all the standard measures. Wrap the work lead around the material, weld from/to the work clamp..............etc. Sometimes it's just a plain booger to get rid of.

Anyways.............all of the above welds had either massive porosity, or slag inclusions, before being redone. So..........it's something to think about.

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Another option is to weld towards the middle if you're seeing a lot of arc blow on a particular weldment.

Edit: Something I sometimes wind up doing, is whipping towards the end of the run if arc blow starts. It's the only way you can fill the material that's been blown away. I don't like doing it, but it will save you in a pinch. I'd hate to see an Xray of the particular area, but then who knows.................might be reasonably fine. It's just not an ideal thing to do.

This problem has mostly been eliminated with wire welding. You very seldom, if ever, get arc blow running flux core.
 
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I suppose it does depend. But yeah, it has been a while, but if memory serves me, for real.
Quality of the rods makes a huge difference in how the flux comes off. Good 7018 rods will peel easier than 6013. Not quite as good as 7014.

Some of the imported stuff is miserable to work with.
 
Quality of the rods makes a huge difference in how the flux comes off. Good 7018 rods will peel easier than 6013. Not quite as good as 7014.

Some of the imported stuff is miserable to work with.
This was at a welding school.
The thinking was if you can pass the test with 6011 you could weld it with 7018 with your eyes closed.
Always train and test someone in the hardest situation 6011 uphill in vertical and over head then the rest is easy for them to learn on their own.
I find a lot of guys weld with 7018 because they can’t weld with 6011. Just like a lot of guys use wire feed because they can’t weld with a stick.
 
This was at a welding school.
The thinking was if you can pass the test with 6011 you could weld it with 7018 with your eyes closed.
Always train and test someone in the hardest situation 6011 uphill in vertical and over head then the rest is easy for them to learn on their own.
I find a lot of guys weld with 7018 because they can’t weld with 6011. Just like a lot of guys use wire feed because they can’t weld with a stick.
Everyone ought to re=read Mr John La, above. 6011/ 6010 burns in-holds. 7018 pretty- good for those who think a Honda is a truck maker. MIG stuff = sissy!
 
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Looks like a 110/220V machine too, so you'll be able to use the full capability of the welder. Those 110V ones can overload a 15A circuit, and it's not often you have a 20A circuit around. They tend to be very sensitive to extension cords as well.

I think you did fine.
Not often you have a 20A circuit? I have been doing my own electrical for over 50 years now, and I have never wired a 120V circuit with 14 ga wire and a 15A breaker. And I would expect any workshop to be all 20A receptacles with GFCI's.
 
This was at a welding school.
The thinking was if you can pass the test with 6011 you could weld it with 7018 with your eyes closed.
Always train and test someone in the hardest situation 6011 uphill in vertical and over head then the rest is easy for them to learn on their own.
I find a lot of guys weld with 7018 because they can’t weld with 6011. Just like a lot of guys use wire feed because they can’t weld with a stick.
When I took a welding class, we used 6012, a hard rod to weld with, but once you get the hang of it you can weld with anything!
 
Not often you have a 20A circuit? I have been doing my own electrical for over 50 years now, and I have never wired a 120V circuit with 14 ga wire and a 15A breaker. And I would expect any workshop to be all 20A receptacles with GFCI's.
That's what YOU would do/expect. Look beyond the end of your own nose. There's a whole world out there that isn't you.

Contractors will do the bare minimum to pass inspection. Most people don't know the difference. Unless you're having the place built for yourself and you have the foresight to specify 20A circuits, you're going to get 15A.
 
Not often you have a 20A circuit? I have been doing my own electrical for over 50 years now, and I have never wired a 120V circuit with 14 ga wire and a 15A breaker. And I would expect any workshop to be all 20A receptacles with GFCI's.
Same here. Minimum of 12 gauge wire everywhere. A little stiffer to work with but gives more options.
 
I have Hobart 175 Handler, I've had it close to twenty years, works great, it is plugged in next to a late60's Century that has not been used since 2002. When I need a stick welder I have a Lincoln Pipeliner.
 
That's what YOU would do/expect. Look beyond the end of your own nose. There's a whole world out there that isn't you.

Contractors will do the bare minimum to pass inspection. Most people don't know the difference. Unless you're having the place built for yourself and you have the foresight to specify 20A circuits, you're going to get 15A.
I just went and looked at the breaker panel in our winter home in Arizona, a cheap little park model mobile home, the kitchen and living room are all 20A, the bedroom and bath are 15. Arizona room is 15A, laundry room is 20A. My little workshop/shed is plugged into a 30A camper receptacle, that's overkill!
 
I just went and looked at the breaker panel in our winter home in Arizona, a cheap little park model mobile home, the kitchen and living room are all 20A, the bedroom and bath are 15. Arizona room is 15A, laundry room is 20A. My little workshop/shed is plugged into a 30A camper receptacle, that's overkill!
Does your workshop have a breaker panel that feeds the lights and receptacles with smaller breakers?
 
Does your workshop have a breaker panel that feeds the lights and receptacles with smaller breakers?
No, it doesn't, and that's a concern! I didn't build or wire this place. There is a lot of shoddy work done in Arizona, limited regulations and inspections. There is a meter out behind the house, with a panel under it with a 30A 120V for the receptacle, a 100A for the house, and a 50 for the HVAC unit.
 
Most of my "arc blow" used to not being able to see where I was welding. Since cataract surgery and a brand new full view electronic helmet, things go straight now!
 
That's what YOU would do/expect. Look beyond the end of your own nose. There's a whole world out there that isn't you.

Contractors will do the bare minimum to pass inspection. Most people don't know the difference. Unless you're having the place built for yourself and you have the foresight to specify 20A circuits, you're going to get 15A.
You have to look no further than a mobile home. Gotta Solitaire on the place that's wired exactly as you say. Puny wire, puny breakers. Just enough to run someone's toaster without kicking a breaker. The people who buy these things have no idea what's behind the walls. I bought it because it was expedient. Had to have a place for my parents to finish out their years.
 
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