Welding Helmet

I am a hobby welder and most of my work looks like bubble gum. But my welding improved 100% after the kids got me a self darkener. As said above, get one that fits, best from a welding shop.
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:37 11/27/23) wp6529: I do not know where you got that information, but it's dangerously incorrect. The full darkeness of a lens is needed to protect against arc flash, and the subsequent permanent eye damage it causes. In some cases--large rods at high heats, for instance, even the standard range of most autodarkening helmets may not be sufficient, though most casual welders are not as apt to have the need for--or the equipment capable of--pushing those boundaries.

False. I think most will agree that AWS is a reputable source.

https://app.aws.org/technical/facts/FACT-31_2014.pdf

" ADFs include a special filter that blocks
harmful radiation even if the main
switching element fails.

Blocked light sensors, dead batteries,
improper sensitivity settings, or using

ADFs in very cold temperatures can

prevent switching to the dark shade

when an arc is struck, resulting in

temporary "blind spots," similar to the
effects of a camera flash"
 
Believe what you wish. I've had enough first-hand experience with flash damage from using an inferior auto-darkening helmet to trust my eyesight to one, and wanted to save others from the same problem. From the looks of several of the other replies (not that this was ever in doubt), I am not the only one to have had this problem, and there's no sense in wasting any more time arguing about it.
 
I have a Miller Digital Elite. Has all the settings for darkness, sensitivity, flash lag, etc. Pretty easy to get used to settings. I've been using it for over 10 years, and only changed batteries this last year. When they failed, the lens still darkened enough to not get flash blinded. I'd wait until the red light goes on and buy a new set of batteries. Buy a bunch of lens covers so you can change them out regularly. The batteries self-recharge in the arc, and in sunlight (maybe even in the shop lighting). I weld at least 2-4 times a week, as a hobby. I put the specs on my Christmas list and it was then free, thanks to my family. I think it was under $200. steve
 
I had a cheapo one that worked ok for a couple years. As others mentioned, the build quality of things like the band and adjustment were the main problems I noticed at the time. I can't remember it ever failing to darken when an arc was struck. It was handy, but not really a game-changer. When it broke, I went back to old fashioned helmets for a few years and got along ok.

Then (this year) I got an uber-nice ESAB auto darkening helmet, and that WAS definitely a game-changer. Much better than the cheapo one. For some work it wouldn't make much of a difference, but for other work it's a night and day difference. One of the best aspects was the resting lens colour (when it hasn't darkened): it's more of a light yellowish-green that makes it really easy to see things when working in a dark area. The cheapo one had a dark bluey-purple lens that was so dark even when you didn't have an arc struck it was sometimes hard to see what you were fitting up, and you had to always make sure the work piece was well lit. It wasn't too noticeable welding flat in a well-lit shop, but if you're crawling under a vehicle to weld something overhead or in a poorly-lit shed it's very noticeable. The other big factor is the lens size - the large viewing angle of the Esab helmet is very convenient - especially in tight quarters. My one complaint with the Esab it that it sometimes (rarely) doesn't darken if it's the first time it's been used in a while. Not a huge issue for me because I now do mostly MIG, so I just strike a quick arc with the trigger for about half a second with my eyes closed, let off, and it'll be just fine after that. Probably something to do with the many settings it has, which I've never properly investigated/learned.

For occasional welding I don't think you need a $600 Esab (or similar) helmet. My friend has one of the 'Yeswelder' ones with the large lens - probably cost about $150. Not as nice as my Esab, but it does just fine.
 
Expensive isn't always good. Several years we had a dog and wife bought expensive dogfood. I told her it's a dog and he eats it just as good. She said but the expensive doesn't have all that filler in it it it has all good. Well a short time later the expensive dogfood company got caught with the fact their dogfood wasn't what the label said was in it. I told wife, see you been feeding Panda junk. She wouldn't even talk about it, so I just kept quite.
 
WP the link you provide sites what the government findings are. I trust the government about as far as I can throw them and that is not very far. Remember the fuci flu and all the lies that came with the WHO and CDC. SO you can trust them if you want. I'll continue to trust myself.
 
(reply to post at 21:24:07 11/27/23)
If you nea sayers actually went shopping for an APS helmet, you would find the better ones advertising:

"All of our auto dimming welding helmets are ANSI Z87.1 compliant, this means they will fully protect against UV/IR radiation even when in their un-darkened state."

or maybe it is false advertising across many brands and you could sue them all for millions!
 
Functionally I don't think there is a lot of difference between a cheap helmet and an expensive one. Lawyers would sue their pants off if they didn't. The expensive one is probably made of better materials and more comfortable but any of them can fail if the batteries are not charged. If a person stores a helmet in a closet or someplace dark it will need to be set out in the light before you can depend on it darkening. If a person welds a lot an expensive helmet some of them have batteries you can put on an external charger so you don't have to have the helmet in the sun all the time. I did a lot of welding this weekend with my old cheap helmet and set it in the direct sun as much as I could and never had an issue with it not darkening fast enough.
 
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