Steiger ST-251

[avant 1735]

I have a steiger ST-251, it has a high and low range transmission with 10 forward and 2 reverse. My question deals with the clutch, what is the difference between a stuck clutch and and slipping clutch. When I depress the clutch I am unable to shift the tractor while it is running, I have adjusted the linkage, but still no difference, The only way I can move it is to start it in gear, when I do it takes off immediately, no hesitation. I drove it around to day for a few minutes and depressed the clutch the tractor stopped, then I tried it again and it did not stop completely. My gut tells me the clutch is gone, but it does not feel like it is slipping. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Janicholson]

Several things can do it. Oil or greasy deposits on the disk can cause it to stick.
A warped disk which rubs on the pressure plate or flywheel will be dragged with them making shifting difficult.
A clutch that has excessive freeplay will drag and not release.
The Freeplay (amount the pedal pushes down easily at first) should be about 1/5 of its travel. This is an "about" distance, and not a specification. If it pushes nearly all the way down, then begins to do something that is the problem.
Fixing a oily clutch, or warped disk, means a split of the tractor. (not what you wanted to hear) Jim

 

[ptfarmer]

Isn't the clutch on the ST-251 hydraulic operated? If it is it could be bad clutch slave cylinder, or the clutch master cylinder. Possibly low on fluid.

 

[Tom OConnor]

Stieger tractors were very prone to a poor clutch life. I had a ST325 that I bought new and was the only thing that I ever owned that ever got a clutch job in my lifetime and I think we changed the clutch in that tractor at least three times. You take the seat out of the cab and they had a plate in the bottom of the cab and a rail that they used a special tool on that held the transmission and rolled the transmission back far enough to get the clutch out from underneath the tractor. Not an easy job but duable with enough patience. When working a Stieger tractor you always engaged the clutch with the tractor idle and the tool that you were pulling up out of the ground. That was only one of their problems. Poor hydraulics, weak planetary gears in the wheel hubs, air conditioner that at it's best was just a little better than none at all and rim to rim mounted duals just to mention a few. I was never so glad to see it go down the road. Sorry that I can't be of more help but did not have a good experience with the Stieger.

 

[Jeff tazecounty]

Chances are the master cylinder and the slave cylinder on the clutch need rebuilt. Not a bad job can get the kits at NAPA once you have them apart. I have a ST320 and I just rebuild them about every 2 yrs. If it sets out much they collect a lot of moisture. Clutches don't give much trouble if you are diligent about not slipping the clutch. Don't try to start under a load. They will not take much slipping. Good luck

 

[Bob]

<img src = "http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTY2WDgwMA==/z/uF0AAMXQVERStX4i/$_35.JPG">

NOT sure where you're gonna "split" that one to get to the clutch, Jim, LOL!

There's a Roadranger directly connected to an 855 Cummins hiding under the cab..

I think a typical clutch job would consist of lifting the Roadranger out through the cab for clutch access, or you could pull the engine.

YUCK!


I don't enjoy jobs like that anymore!

 

[Lazy WP]

Always amazes me how a persons perception reflects their opinion of something. The Steiger tractor were a pretty good outfit. The outboard planitaries were used by about every manufacturer and clamp on rims definitely were part of the articulating tractor world.

 

[GreenEnvy]

No kidding. Steiger and Versatile were kings of the 4 wheel drive tractors. Steiger wouldn't have been so popular if they were that poor.

 

[ztrmower]

had a cougar bought new put over 5000hrs on unit never had clutch out of it. only reason it left was farming operation was dissolved threw the breakup wish i still had that unit. in fact i am looking for one at this typing to bring back home i usedto pull 21ft chisel and 45 ft field cultivators with it.

 

[caterpillar guy]

First of all you don't adjust the clutch by adjusting the linkage. You need to take the cover off the bottom of the bell housing. It has 4 5/16th's bolts if it is still on there. Then turn the clutch till you can see a bolt with a small tab on it. Take the bolt out pull the tab off . With someone holding the pedal down you can pry that ring the tab was in around till the free play is back to spec. There should be about an 1/8 inch between the fork and throw out bearing face. This adjusts the same as a truck clutch. If you have the clearance right then adjust your linkage for clutch brake operation and you should be good to go. This should also take care of your issue with the not stopping when the pedal is down also.
There are various methods for that clutch on the bolt and tab. On has a 3/4 bolt head you simply push in on as you turn it with a wrench. If you have questions just Call 989 413 5684

 

[Tom OConnor]

Lazy WP,

It was not my perception of that tractor that formed my opinion it was owning it for ten years. The one I had was a Panther 325. One of the first ones and it had three sun gears in the hubs and on a warm day you could fry eggs on those hubs after it ran for an hour or so. The company came out with a changeover to the five sun gear hub at a cost of about four thousand dollars a corner to fix the problem. The hydraulic system was maxed out to the limit, if you put new shovels on the chisel plow the first day you run it the suck of the points would over power the hydraulics and you would have to stop at the end of the field to raise the plow out of the ground. The air conditioner had a real small compressor that if remember was made in Sweden and was just a bit better than not having any at all and you were sitting nearly on top of the engine. That tractor had 24.5 x 32 tires on it and the banded duals left about three inches of clearance between the tires. Our land is of the sticky nature and they would load up between the tires. The only time they would clean was going down the road where they left several hundred pounds of dirt on the road. The later tractors with the axle mounted duals you had the option of moving the outboard tires out farther to eliminate the problem. A 325 horsepower engine in a farm tractor with a dry clutch is not blessed with longevity. I have owned a lot of tractors in my lifetime and that one just goes down as the poorest engineered one that I have ever owned.

 

[avant 1735]

fluid level is good, slave cylinder seems to be working properly, really don't want to split it, but it sure seems that might happen.

 

[avant 1735]

where are you located, mine will be going onthe market soon, if you interested.

 

[MAX-KY]

If your tractor has s big truck type of clutch, what caterpillar guy said will probably fix your problem. If you adjust the pressure plate the way he said DO NOT and I repeat, DO NOT start the engine without putting that locking tab back in place. We did that on one of our road tractors one time. When the engine started the adjusting ring turned all that it could and jammed. We had to pull the transmission and take the clutch out to free it up. Trust me, you don't want to do that if you don't have to. Good luck, Max

 

[ptfarmer]

Maybe it would be best to find a big truck mechanic to adjust the clutch, once you see how its done they are pretty easy (if it can be adjusted, and not have to split it, its worth it). That's how I learned to adjust those clutches, just watched a experienced big truck mechanic adjust one once.