Reconnecting the Cub

Do you have pictures?
Like you had before, looking down the clutch housing.
I will take more pictures but unfortunately I won't be able to get to for a few days. Thanks for the reply
this would mean the shaft is not entering the crankshaft bushing or brg. which one does it have ? usually when replacing either one they get fitting on the trans shaft to make sure things are good. things get tricky when you dont have a pilot shaft to align the clutch disc. and when things are aligned correctly the halves just slide together. i dont think i would be drawing them in with bolts. its a no no anyway.
Rustred. Thanks for the reply. I believe I know what the crank shaft bushing is but I don't know what a brg is. I won't have access to my cub manuals for a few days. If I continue to try and move the shaft and disc's through the inspection hole while a helper pushes from the back would that possibly work to get it back together? Thanks! Paul
 
Now that you described it, I don't need pictures anymore, I know where you're at. (y)
this would mean the shaft is not entering the crankshaft bushing or brg. which one does it have ? usually when replacing either one they get fitting on the trans shaft to make sure things are good. things get tricky when you dont have a pilot shaft to align the clutch disc. and when things are aligned correctly the halves just slide together. i dont think i would be drawing them in with bolts. its a no no anyway.
It would have a bushing not a bearing, and since no clutch work was done it should slide back in.
You're right about the clutch pilot shaft not going into the bushing.

Make sure that you can turn the fan with the PTO, as a helper is lightly pushing from the back of the tractor, then you or your helper push up on the clutch input shaft. With the clutch disengaged and constant pressure from the rear end, the shaft should pop right into the bushing hole.
Don't use bolts until you're done.
As always, be careful and use caution!
 
I will take more pictures but unfortunately I won't be able to get to for a few days. Thanks for the reply

Rustred. Thanks for the reply. I believe I know what the crank shaft bushing is but I don't know what a brg is. I won't have access to my cub manuals for a few days. If I continue to try and move the shaft and disc's through the inspection hole while a helper pushes from the back would that possibly work to get it back together? Thanks! Paul
I looked in my manual. And yes it’s a bushing. Most tractors use a brg. In the crankshaft. Here is an idea. Get something round like a broom stick. Grind the end down on a grinder to fit the bushing. Measure how far back it is to the disc splines. Then use some good heavy duty tape and tape up the stick till it just slides into the disc splines. That would resemble a pilot shaft. Maybe Larry the bench guy could build this on his wood lathe. Lol. Stick this home made pilot shaft into the splines on the disc and pressure plate then lift the unit up to the flywheel and get the end of stick in bushing and get your bolts on flywheel started. Tighten evenly all around. Once tight that pilot shaft should just pull out. Check the alignment with eyes. And roll tractor together. One thing u can do is put the bolts in to hold both halves together. Turning each bolt on each side lightly not to force things. It will slide together that way. But do not force the bolts!! U need a feel for this. It might just need that little nudge. U get the idea.
 
If you have a hand hole near the clutch, remove the pressure plate bolts, start the shaft into the pilot bearing, and bolt it back on the flywheel when the clutch housing is against the engine.
 
If you have a hand hole near the clutch, remove the pressure plate bolts, start the shaft into the pilot bearing, and bolt it back on the flywheel when the clutch housing is against the engine.
Now that’s making things really difficult. I don’t even think that bell housing even has a hand hole.
 
Quick update. By working through the inspection opening I was able to manipulate the disc's and the shaft using screwdrivers etc. I also needed to depress and release the clutch to help with alignment. I'm close, less than half inch split but I can't get the gap completely closed. When I turn the PTO i can see the fan spinning. Everything appears properly aligned and I can push one side practically closed (by pushing on the rear tire) but then the other side opens. Pushing on both rear tires doesn't quite close the gap either. I'm tempted to put the bolts in then slowly pull it together that way but am concerned I'll break something. Any thoughts on how to proceed. Thanks! Paul
The fan turning would very likely mean that the input shaft has engaged into the clutch plate splines. Put bolts in and turn them to where they will hold the two split parts at the gap you have currently proceeded to. Then get a helper to push the clutch down. Thinking that it is very likely that the input shaft and clutch plate are now to low basically due to gravity through the access hole apply upward pressure on the shaft a good push like 15 - 30 lbs of push. Then release the clutch and try to proceed to slide it together. Your aim is as rustred said to get the end of the input shaft to enter the bushing that centers it and that it rides in.
Edit: I had not refreshed my page so I thought I was replying to the thread following reply 20. That is why some of the things I suggested repeat what others said.
 
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Now that’s making things really difficult. I don’t even think that bell housing even has a hand hole.
No difficulty about it at all. It is either possible, or it is not. I said "IF" there was a hole there.... I don't know, I own no cubs. This IS, however, possible on a super C, but is not my preferred method.
 
this would mean the shaft is not entering the crankshaft bushing or brg. which one does it have ? usually when replacing either one they get fitting on the trans shaft to make sure things are good. things get tricky when you dont have a pilot shaft to align the clutch disc. and when things are aligned correctly the halves just slide together. i dont think i would be drawing them in with bolts. its a no no anyway.
If you installed a new pilot bushing there in a really good chance you mushroomed it a bit and the shaft ain't going in.....it's a very common issue 😵‍💫. You will probably have to slide the halves far enough apart to ream the bushing out a bit. If you force it together using bolts there is a good chance the shaft won't spin in the bushing.
 
If you installed a new pilot bushing there in a really good chance you mushroomed it a bit and the shaft ain't going in.....it's a very common issue 😵‍💫. You will probably have to slide the halves far enough apart to ream the bushing out a bit. If you force it together using bolts there is a good chance the shaft won't spin in the bushing.
and there is a tool for that also. who hammers on a pilot bushing ???🤷‍♂️
 
I think its time to roll this tractor back apart and start over. Get you a clutch alignment tool and properly align things. I have done dozens of clutches in in the past and all require alignment to get things back together easily. Take granpa's advise and check that pilot bushing also. Get things aligned right and one person can easily get it all buttoned back together. Get one of these tools and have at it.
1769820780576.png
 
In post #23 rustred gave a method of using a broom stick to make pilot for alignment to be used without tearing the torque tube off to get to the clutch. You have the end of the shaft that goes into the pilot bearing so that diameter is available and the outside of the clutch disc splines on the shaft is available. the stub does not need to go fully into the pilot bearing. With a bit of care you can get the diameters close to right and reasonably close to the same center. Get the broom stick into the clutch disc. Someone push the clutch pedal to free the disc. use the broomstick to lift/move the disc to where you get the pilot stub into the pilot bushing. Release the pedal and it should be close. You can always tweak it a bit, if it appears a bit out of center when you check it after removing the stick, by putting the stick back in and moving the disc more in the direction needed.

Also, be sure the end of the transmission shaft has a tapered lead (chamfer) in where it goes into the bushing use a file to be sure it has one if needed.
 
I think it’s time to roll this tractor back apart and start over. Get you a clutch alignment tool and properly align things. I have done dozens of clutches in in the past and all require alignment to get things back together easily. Take granpa's advise and check that pilot bushing also. Get things aligned right and one person can easily get it all buttoned back together. Get one of these tools and have at it.View attachment 141217
@Paul 300 U This is good advice
 
The thing is , a tractor wrecker is a good place to get these pilot shifts. Just cut them off junked parts. It has the actual splines for the clutch and that’s the ones I prefer. Those taped ones like in photo are as good as the person using it.

Hello all,
A couple of months back I posted that my 1963 International Cub appeared to be leaking transmission fluid. I confirmed it was and finally got around to splitting and replacing the seals and gaskets. Now I can't get it back together. It seem like the clutch is in the way but I really don't know. I've tried making sure the halves are level. I'm looking forward to any suggestions.
Thanks Paul.
I think you are getting close. Before you give up tighten the bolts to a VERY light push. Depress the clutch and see if you can wiggle the shaft until it pops into the bushing. To the others, he has it broken between the trans and the back of the torque tube, the top trans shaft is a few feet long to reach the clutch, The bushing is old so it should cooperate. You can get a fair access through the inspection hole . Hope this works or you can remove the torque tube and use an alignment tool.
 
The thing is , a tractor wrecker is a good place to get these pilot shifts. Just cut them off junked parts. It has the actual splines for the clutch and that’s the ones I prefer. Those taped ones like in photo are as good as the person using it.
That would definitely be a good thing to have but hard for some people to get. He’s close so maybe he’ll get it. There have been a few things done that made it harder to close up. Sometimes backing up, being careful and doing it again is easiest in the long run.
 
I think you are getting close. Before you give up tighten the bolts to a VERY light push. Depress the clutch and see if you can wiggle the shaft until it pops into the bushing. To the others, he has it broken between the trans and the back of the torque tube, the top trans shaft is a few feet long to reach the clutch, The bushing is old so it should cooperate. You can get a fair access through the inspection hole . Hope this works or you can remove the torque tube and use an alignment tool.
Seems oddly similar to my reply 26, hopefully it can be proven that great minds think alike.
 
The thing is , a tractor wrecker is a good place to get these pilot shifts. Just cut them off junked parts. It has the actual splines for the clutch and that’s the ones I prefer. Those taped ones like in photo are as good as the person using it.
I have accumulated a pile of pilot shafts in over fifty years of wrenching. I also have used a Lisle kit like the one i posted many many times. If a person cannot figure how to do an alignment with it then, maybe someone else should be doing the job.
 
I have accumulated a pile of pilot shafts in over fifty years of wrenching. I also have used a Lisle kit like the one i posted many many times. If a person cannot figure how to do an alignment with it then, maybe someone else should be doing the job.
What you say is true. However if you look at his picture he has not split at the clutch. I don't think he can reach to properly use a regular alignment tool through the torque tube.
 
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