Mudrig's new Ford 3000

[Sean in PA]

Just an FYI - That is not a 3000 grill. Both the early and later style 3000 grills were two pieces. That grill looks like the style from a later 2600/3600 series, but the background on those were originally black, so either it's very faded or someone repainted it incorrectly. That grill was not designed to be installed in that shell, so if you get the shell back to it's original shape, the grill won't fit. I would just bang the shell out until that grill fits inside and call it done.

 

[Mudrig150]

Just an FYI - That is not a 3000 grill. Both the early and later style 3000 grills were two pieces. That grill looks like the style from a later 2600/3600 series, but the background on those were originally black, so either it's very faded or someone repainted it incorrectly. That grill was not designed to be installed in that shell, so if you get the shell back to it's original shape, the grill won't fit. I would just bang the shell out until that grill fits inside and call it done.

It's a 3600 grille, and I bought it knowing it wouldn't be a direct fit, I just prefer this grille style.
It's silver because the mesh isn't painted, but I might just clear coat it and leave it silver because I think it looks neat.
The reason it won't fit right now is because the whole grille shell is bent to one side, so both sides are skewed enough to make the grille hit on the top corners, and it's also making contact where the top is all caved in, so neither style grille will fit until it's straightened out.
Brackets on the original style grille don't line up at all but they're broken anyway, at least, the lower grille tabs are.

 

[gears]

Great work Mud, there's just something satisfying (to me anyways) about making what you have work. I just spent an hour out in the barn fabricating 1/4 of an inner fender for my old Dakota (PO got hit and cut chunks out to get it on the trailer)....

 

[Mudrig150]

Drawbar obtained, had to fight it to get the drawbar into the bracket, and unfortunately the swing plate bracket is bent just enough that it doesn't swing freely... oh well, it moves with a hammer at least.
It was a nightmare to find since I haven't seen a single 2000 or 3000 with the drawbar for sale or parted out.

Hoping to pick up the year-a-round cab that'll go on the tractor this saturday.

 

[Mudrig150]

Just noticed something really worrying... while up under the tractor I noticed I could see light through the wheel center... turns out both centers are super thin around the bolt holes from rust, and the left side actually has some siezeable rust holes around the bolts... I only have 1 good rim, while having two leaking tires, two rusted wheel centers, and 1 rotten rim that has the loops breaking off.

 

[Destroked 450]

View attachment 165508

Drawbar obtained, had to fight it to get the drawbar into the bracket, and unfortunately the swing plate bracket is bent just enough that it doesn't swing freely... oh well, it moves with a hammer at least.
It was a nightmare to find since I haven't seen a single 2000 or 3000 with the drawbar for sale or parted out.

Hoping to pick up the year-a-round cab that'll go on the tractor this saturday.

Sounds like you put a 4000 draw bar on your 3000, they look the same but 4000 draw bar is slightly thicker

 

[Mudrig150]

It's a bit ragged, but it's perfect for modifying to fit the 3000. Roof isn't super rotten and it's got all the windows intact minus a door window that's broke and the cracked rear glass.

 

[Mudrig150]

And a slightly better picture in the daylight...
I don't plan on adding a heater back so I'll probably just try and squeeze an evap core where the heater previously was.

 

[Mudrig150]

Bit stuck... both in regards to progress and also just in regards to the pittman arms. They are STUCK. Had my biggest puller on them and even using my big impact I couldn't get them to budge. Someone has clearly been in here before so I'm a bit concerned with what I'm gonna find once it comes apart to reseal it...

 

[a49deere]

Had the same issue with my 3910 arms. Fired up the torch, already had the puller on arm, just got the torch on to arm, Bang!! Off it came, And I do mean off it came! Don't stand in front of it!!

 

[Mudrig150]

Had the same issue with my 3910 arms. Fired up the torch, already had the puller on arm, just got the torch on to arm, Bang!! Off it came, And I do mean off it came! Don't stand in front of it!!

I was actually able to pull them off with a smaller puller. Not sure why it worked better, but whatever.

 

[sweetskillsrk]

Stuck at the same point on my 3000. Been soaking it with penetrating oil for weeks, left a three arm puller on it for a week, and tried a torch, won't budge. Think I'm going to have to cut it off, though I might try a 2 arm puller first. They're going back on with anti-seize! Left side, no biggie, right side, .

 

[Hobo,NC]

They actually make a special tool to remove those arms its called (are you ready for this) Pitman arm puller. In my line of work I probably have 6 of them that have been modified for different applications and a few that have not been modified. The best of the bunch is a OTC I have loaned it to other mechanics they all said they had never seen one like it and it worked great. Pitman arms are made to fit tight don't fudge with it, heat it are beat on it (beat on it as a last resort). You can apply something to the splines but its not gonna make it easier. The tool to remove the arm is cheap enoufh are go all out and buy a OTC that will take on all commers. That being said I have seen where the OTC was the only tool that would pop those arms off. Before I got the OTC I would put a pitman puller on then rattle the arm with a air hammer.

OTC

Why the Fit is So Tight

• • Tapered Splines: The sector shaft (coming out of the steering gearbox) and the hole in the pitman arm are slightly tapered. As you crank down the nut, the arm wedges itself higher onto the taper, locking the metal surfaces together under immense pressure. [1, 2, 3]
  • High Torque Requirement: The retaining nut is typically torqued between 185 to 300+ ft-lbs depending on the vehicle. This heavy clamping force stretches and seats the metal so it never slips. [1, 2, 3]
  • Preventing Steering Failure: The pitman arm handles all the physical force required to turn your heavy vehicle's wheels. If it were a loose or sloppy slip-fit, steering torque would quickly strip the metal splines, snap the sector shaft, or cause a complete loss of steering control.
  A tight fit is good.

 

[sotxbill]

Wow. Nasa built a rocket with less work than this. Hats off for sharing the great story. If that one steering box is good, grind off the weld, if you have to, remove the wheel with a puller and hammer taps,, reinstall and ""tack"" back the wheel maybe.... Best of luck.

 

[Mudrig150]

Well. I've hit a major roadblock today. I pulled the column to do the seals, and realized that I forgot to order the pittman shaft seals, so all I have are the pittman arm cover o-rings and the ones for the steering valve.
Decided to also check down into the bell housing to figure out why the clutch drags, which makes shifting super annoying.
Noticed that when I pushed the clutch down, the main shaft didn't spin freely and the clutch disk didn't move on the splines. Simple fix I thought, maybe its just stuck on the splines, or it has a burr on the shaft or something.

Yeah, no. Turns out, when the engine was going on, the main clutch disk got caught on the splines and it immediately tore the hub out of the disc. I was unaware of this, of course, because I still had the column on and couldn't see the issue, which was also compounded by the fact that the PTO disk DID click onto the splines, which gave me a false sense of security, and also the engine fought me while getting it pulled, and went on about the same.
The reason the tractor still drove is because the center hub was jammed in at an angle and was bound up on the PTO shaft splines, meaning that the tractor was driving using the PTO clutch disk. You can actually see the 3 splines that were actually engaged on the larger shaft in the picture, and I sadly don't have a picture of the beat up splines on the other side and the ring of wear on the PTO shaft caused by the splines slipping.
Luckily, all the damage is localized to the main clutch disk and nothing else seems to be super badly damaged, though I will need to move the engine far enough forward to pull and assess the state of the pressure plate.