(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Recent content by rnorum

Yesterday's Tractor Forums
  1. R

    BEARING TOOL

    You can use a nail, stick in hole and roll out the brg by turning the crank. grind off the nail head so it is thinner than the brg. They used to have these in shops made from aluminum. The thrust will roll out easy also.
  2. R

    found it!!!

    Remember (starts when let up on starter button) Talking with GB and many others, I rewired my '49 8N with Jmor's diagram and when pulling on the wires located on the balaster (lower post)with battery still hooked up it sparked every time I wiggled wires. Took off the original balaster and...
  3. R

    starts when let up

    Bruce, Thanks for trying to explain. If I use the new 12V coil that has 1.5 ohms and add a resister that reads 1.6 ohms, that will be 3.1 ohms. Will that work? I called Dennis Carpenters tech man twice to ask if this is a 12V coil or not and he says it is and you have to use this resister1.6...
  4. R

    starts when let up

    Jmor, Thanks for answering. I am going to learn even it it kills me about volts ohms etc. I just rewired to match your scematic for 12V conversion (I had it all wrong) and I have a new coil 12V,coil ohms is 1.5. This morning I wiggled my ballast resistor (the one with all the wires hooked to)...
  5. R

    starts when let up

    That sound good. I am going to find one today. What should the voltage be to the coil, before cranking and after cranking? Thanks for help, DN
  6. R

    starts when let up

    That makes sense. What am I looking for amps or volts? What procedure should I do? Hook my meter to top of coil and ground, turn on key and see what? Then turn engine over a little to see differences in reading when points open and close? What should the readings be? Thanks for the help, DN
  7. R

    starts when let up

    Thank you for answering. 13 times is a long story. breifly, bought a new dist and the center shaft with the bumps on it was off aprox 20 degrees, coud'nt time, sent it to where I bought and it come back with timing screw and plate way off to one side and would just barely run. then the post that...
  8. R

    starts when let up

    My '49 8N, 12V Conversion, 6 V coil with extra resister, I am never sure how to use the tester on the coil.front mount will now start only when releasing the starter button. I burned up one starter and now I have a ford tractor specialist rebuilt starter that spins over good but seems like the...
  9. R

    '49 8N wont start

    GB in MT are you out there? I run for 20 minutes and the plugs darken and then it wont start. Take the plugs out buff them spray them and heat them out, and it may start then. It ran perfect for a year, started in 1 or 3 turns and a little choke, idles perfect and all. 125 lbs each cyl, Blue...
  10. R

    rotating exhaust valve

    I think there is no rotating valves on a ford tractor l head. There is just "free valves" The cup is against the keepers and is trapped in place by the lifters. The exhaust valve expands when hot aprox 002 thou, so you need at least that much clearance from the bottom of the stem to inside cup...
  11. R

    9N lower hose heater

    Any info on what kind or where to buy a magnetic manifold heater? Sounds like a g ood idea for northern Wisconsin.
  12. R

    '49 8N wont start

    I put in new plugs yesterday and it started right up and run fine. today it wont start so I pulled out the new plugs and dried them out and they were not wet. Checked the spark again with my 3/16 gap plug and a bright blue spark. I wonder if I am getting gas? I took the plug out of carb and it...
  13. R

    '49 8N wont start

    All summer it has been starting on 2 turns, little choke, no problem. Now that I have chains on and ready for snow it wont start, seems flooded. so I put in new plugs and it started in 2 turns. plugs were usualy brown, now black. I did leave the gas on for a few days, checked the oil and it was...
  14. R

    Why Mercury

    You could be right, but my memory is different an older I think if I still have a memory. 39 to 41 trucks, cars and 3 tons were 21 stud 3 1/16 bore, some of the 40s had steel sleeves and the block marked next to the manifold, then 42 to 48 was a 24 stud with 3 3/16 bores like 59A, 59AB,59L...
  15. R

    I Just Wanna Give Up!!!!!

    I have seen people drill out bad hole to next size, tap and use a larger head bolt (like 1/2"), drill out head for the larger bolt. But if you have a cracked hole area you may need another block.
See more
Yesterday's Tractor Forums
Buy Tractor Parts Here Buy Tractor Manuals Here

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2025 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top