1948 8N rebuild progress

Those are usually caused by water in the oil sitting in between the bearing rollers and the race for an extended amount of time while the tractor sits for a long time unused. Oddly enough the bearing rollers rarely get the same damage as the race and you can get by just replacing the race.
Probably but its one of those while I am in there. The bearing did feel a little rough.
 
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Cleaned up the diff housing and axle housings with some oven cleaner and the pressure washer. There was an 1/8” thick coat of crud at the bottom. Definitely leaving the oil splash shield in but replacing all the bearings. Still planning to get them dipped.
 

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@JJay48 - I am in the middle of doing my '48 8N. Over 1" of sludge in the gearbox/hydraulic pump/differential sump. Nasty stuff. The engine has all standard parts, so has been rebuilt at some point. Late model steering gear.

Your rebuild is looking good! I see the Chewy box, but don't see any supervisors around! I have at least one looking on, most times. zuhnc
 
@JJay48 - I am in the middle of doing my '48 8N. Over 1" of sludge in the gearbox/hydraulic pump/differential sump. Nasty stuff. The engine has all standard parts, so has been rebuilt at some point. Late model steering gear.

Your rebuild is looking good! I see the Chewy box, but don't see any supervisors around! I have at least one looking on, most times. zuhnc
1” of sludge….woah lol.
We have a golden retriever but she is usually with my wife when I am in the barn.

Thanks
 
@old - That unit will vibrate hardly at all; very stable and smooth running. Probably just need the front jack, and something at the back. Saw pictures of your trailer elsewhere here. zuhnc
 
@old - That unit will vibrate hardly at all; very stable and smooth running. Probably just need the front jack, and something at the back. Saw pictures of your trailer elsewhere here. zuhnc
I'm putting one on the front and 2 at the back one on each corner so as to make sure it is stable plus since you know this already the land around here isn't very flat. LOL
 
Got the old pinion pilot bearing out and the bearing races out of the axle trumpets.

Found a socket that perfectly fit between the rivets yet the OD of the bearing fit just inside.
 

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Here you can see the inner bearing race on the diff side with the cages off.
 

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Got the old pinion pilot bearing out and the bearing races out of the axle trumpets.

Found a socket that perfectly fit between the rivets yet the OD of the bearing fit just inside.
Good for you, I never had time to look at a one I had removed. I practiced softball with my girls 10 hr. this weekend I am pooped. those races have nuttin much to grab to i see you broke out the welder trick.
 
Good for you, I never had time to look at a one I had removed. I practiced softball with my girls 10 hr. this weekend I am pooped. those races have nuttin much to grab to i see you broke out the welder trick.
The inner race on the shorter side of the diff was a pita because I couldn't get a good angle on it. Ended up cutting a deep groove in it and then welding a ridge next to it to hit with the air hammer and crack it.
 
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A little water damage there! Your disassembly is helping me to see what I have in store when I do mine! Thanks. zuhnc
It sat a lot in the barn ever since my grandpa sold the farm. It ran ok up till 15 years ago or so and hasn't moved much since. It had some moisture in it from condensation I'm sure.
 
Messed with the pinion a little today and grinded some of the casting rough spots down inside the case.

Had a huge success with the lift arm removal as well. I couldn’t believe it came apart easy! I was just going to attempt it and see what happens but not get too crazy and end up breaking something. Now I can sandblast the lid and paint the underside with Glyptal.

Tomorrow I’ll press the other bearing off the pinion if I have time.
 

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Ok, I jinxed myself because the other arm did not come off so easy but I got it. The back pinion bearing was not coming off easy either so I will remove the cage when I have more time and weld up the inner race then put it in the press.
 
Got all the small parts out of the lift cover and it’s now ready to clean and sand blast. I knocked the expansion plugs out of the engine block and one was rusted through and full of sludge in the block behind it. I also bagged and labeled all the bolts and small parts that were still in the casings and engine block.
Most of the new bearings are going to be national/federal mogul. Trying to keep away from the made in china bearings.
 

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Ok, I jinxed myself because the other arm did not come off so easy but I got it. The back pinion bearing was not coming off easy either so I will remove the cage when I have more time and weld up the inner race then put it in the press.
I am not sure what is available in a kit form, I use to keep a transmission bearing/seal/gasket kit on my shelf from TISCO now SMA they always had name brand bearings in the kit. Their are quite a few good name brand bearings its one item you will find the manufacturing process to be across the board in tolerance dead nuts. You have to watch out for counterfeiting. I have found out FAG a top notch manufacturer to be one brand that's counter-fitted. If you use Amazon watch out for this.

The transmission kit listed hear use to have Timken bearings whats supplied today I dunno other than some are listed as TIM (Timken). It use to retail for $125 now $189. : (....
 
Trying to keep away from the made in china bearings.
Do you have any bearing suppliers nearby? I know Babbitt is there, but they probably only sell their stuff. Might be something up near Wright - Patt. I have a great one here, take whatever you need in, and they usually have a US or Japanese made on the self, if not it is ussally the next day.

Edit: forgot the German made ones also.
 
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