JJay48
Member
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
ThanksI make that spring out of a GM door hinge spring, maybe a S-10. Dorman 38436.. j u s t 8 n s use to have them.
ThanksI make that spring out of a GM door hinge spring, maybe a S-10. Dorman 38436.. j u s t 8 n s use to have them.
So I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface.
So I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface. yesSo I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface.
I am also looking for a driver kit to install my .040 sleeves. I thought about getting the machine work to install .090 sleeves but that will probably be more then I need to spend on the motor. Unless I find a good machine shop that is not charging crazy high prices. I had a quote yesterday for $3500 to deck the block and the head, machine for .090 pistons, align bore, and turn the crank. This was with me putting it back together. Maybe I am just not use to these post 2020 prices. This was also from a shop that I had a bad experience with in the past.
Another place quoted 5k and that was with them building the entire engine.
I found 1 other place that seems to be reasonable that I may use.
Thanks for all your info so far. Its really helpful.They are telling you they don't want to do it. I put .090 in all its my way are the highway : ). Line bore "WHY"
That's cool, IMHO I don't think its necessary to upgrade the pump... I would have to have a reason to go their.Thanks for all your info so far. Its really helpful.
Instead of rebuilding my current pump I was going to get the new cap for the 3/4" gear pump but the new cap will need to be bored to line up with the other mains.
For an update I also dropped off the rear axle housings, rear diff/hydraulic case, trans case, and the oil pan at the metal cleaning shop.
I just called this other shop that someone recommended and they can do it all except for the line bore. I will probably just go with them and stick with the stock pump anyway. Prob stick with the non rotating valves as well. I may need to call yesterdaystractors to make sure if I choose the .090 kit what valves and everything I will get.That's cool, IMHO I don't think its necessary to upgrade the pump... I would have to have a reason to go their.
It is fun to work on these tractors. I am going to have to get another to do because I cant waste all these tools and knowledge I gained from doing this one haha. I do have a 1956 Chevy sedan that needs done next though.Good deal, I did my first with a welder and ho-made driver. To me making tools is part of the fun the fun part. I am not going to put a potential problem back in there ring it up as the cost of doing businesses.
Thanks for the tip. Did you update the youtube vid? Lets see it!I am sure you have this covered but maybe I can save you a headache by sharing that the first time I worked on this pump I missed this Shop Manual Note: "The pistons on the scotch yokes are off center. Position the scotch yokes so that the pistons are at their closest position to each other." You guessed it, I had to redo my work. Back when I had zero experience I was mimicking a video on U tube that assembled them incorrectly. Lesson learned. I still use U tube but I always make sure I read and understand the shop manual before tearing into something.
It is hard to see unless you know to look for it. The J&D video now has a mention of the discrepancy in the text that follows the video.Could have took me a min to figure that out.
Ahh at first I though you said you made a Youtube video!It is hard to see unless you know to look for it. The J&D video now has a mention of the discrepancy in the text that follows the video.
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