1948 8N rebuild progress

Hobo, for the adjustable lifter holes do most people use a 3/16 bit? Is there a measurement from the top of the lifter bore down I can use? I do not have the lifters yet but want to get the holes drilled before taking the block to get cleaned.
 
So I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface.

I am also looking for a driver kit to install my .040 sleeves. I thought about getting the machine work to install .090 sleeves but that will probably be more then I need to spend on the motor. Unless I find a good machine shop that is not charging crazy high prices. I had a quote yesterday for $3500 to deck the block and the head, machine for .090 pistons, align bore, and turn the crank. This was with me putting it back together. Maybe I am just not use to these post 2020 prices. This was also from a shop that I had a bad experience with in the past.

Another place quoted 5k and that was with them building the entire engine.

I found 1 other place that seems to be reasonable that I may use.
 
So I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface.

I am also looking for a driver kit to install my .040 sleeves. I thought about getting the machine work to install .090 sleeves but that will probably be more then I need to spend on the motor. Unless I find a good machine shop that is not charging crazy high prices. I had a quote yesterday for $3500 to deck the block and the head, machine for .090 pistons, align bore, and turn the crank. This was with me putting it back together. Maybe I am just not use to these post 2020 prices. This was also from a shop that I had a bad experience with in the past.

Another place quoted 5k and that was with them building the entire engine.

I found 1 other place that seems to be reasonable that I may use.
So I went back and read all of those again and you said to drill them just above the lower gasket surface. yes

They are telling you they don't want to do it. I put .090 in all its my way are the highway : ). Line bore "WHY"

Keep looking for a machine shop. Its understandable folks don't need this job I have not done any major engine work in awhile and don't plan to. The trill is just not there anymore.
 
They are telling you they don't want to do it. I put .090 in all its my way are the highway : ). Line bore "WHY"
Thanks for all your info so far. Its really helpful.

Instead of rebuilding my current pump I was going to get the new cap for the 3/4" gear pump but the new cap will need to be bored to line up with the other mains.


For an update I also dropped off the rear axle housings, rear diff/hydraulic case, trans case, and the oil pan at the metal cleaning shop.
 
Thanks for all your info so far. Its really helpful.

Instead of rebuilding my current pump I was going to get the new cap for the 3/4" gear pump but the new cap will need to be bored to line up with the other mains.


For an update I also dropped off the rear axle housings, rear diff/hydraulic case, trans case, and the oil pan at the metal cleaning shop.
That's cool, IMHO I don't think its necessary to upgrade the pump... I would have to have a reason to go their.
 
That's cool, IMHO I don't think its necessary to upgrade the pump... I would have to have a reason to go their.
I just called this other shop that someone recommended and they can do it all except for the line bore. I will probably just go with them and stick with the stock pump anyway. Prob stick with the non rotating valves as well. I may need to call yesterdaystractors to make sure if I choose the .090 kit what valves and everything I will get.

Here is a break down of their pricing which I thought was reasonable compared to some of the crazy prices I was given so far..

Deck resurface - $125
Head resurface - $60
Clean the block - $165
Polish the crank - $52 if it needs turned as well its $165
Valve job - $225
Bore and install .090 sleeves $700
 
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If resurfacing the head and the block do you think I will be ok with piston to head clearance if only a slight amount is removed? Not sure how close that is from the factory.

I also ordered new head bolts. The ones you can buy are all 3".

The ones that came out are:

2 longer studs are 2 15/16" and the shorter ones are 2 13/16"

I will probably just use washers on the 16 to take up the space. The 3" studs should be long enough as well to provide enough length for the 12v conversion bracket.
 
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Welded together some scrap metal I had today to make the sleeve puller. All the sleeves are out now and once my rebuild kit comes in ill take it to the machine shop.

1 and 3 were a little loose compared to 2 and 4. Glad I am going with the .090 sleeves.
 

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Good deal, I did my first with a welder and ho-made driver. To me making tools is part of the fun the fun part. I am not going to put a potential problem back in there ring it up as the cost of doing businesses.
 
Good deal, I did my first with a welder and ho-made driver. To me making tools is part of the fun the fun part. I am not going to put a potential problem back in there ring it up as the cost of doing businesses.
It is fun to work on these tractors. I am going to have to get another to do because I cant waste all these tools and knowledge I gained from doing this one haha. I do have a 1956 Chevy sedan that needs done next though.

I cant wait till I start spraying the red. Got the other side of the garage all cleaned up the other day and the paint booth cleaned out. I hope the parts come back in good shape from the metal cleaners. They made me nervous how they stacked everything on one skid standing up.
 
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Took apart the hydraulic pump today. Got it soaking right now in diesel and ATF. New rebuild kit I got looks pretty nice.
 

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I am sure you have this covered but maybe I can save you a headache by sharing that the first time I worked on this pump I missed this Shop Manual Note: "The pistons on the scotch yokes are off center. Position the scotch yokes so that the pistons are at their closest position to each other." You guessed it, I had to redo my work. Back when I had zero experience I was mimicking a video on U tube that assembled them incorrectly. Lesson learned. I still use U tube but I always make sure I read and understand the shop manual before tearing into something.
 
I am sure you have this covered but maybe I can save you a headache by sharing that the first time I worked on this pump I missed this Shop Manual Note: "The pistons on the scotch yokes are off center. Position the scotch yokes so that the pistons are at their closest position to each other." You guessed it, I had to redo my work. Back when I had zero experience I was mimicking a video on U tube that assembled them incorrectly. Lesson learned. I still use U tube but I always make sure I read and understand the shop manual before tearing into something.
Thanks for the tip. Did you update the youtube vid? Lets see it!
 
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It is hard to see unless you know to look for it. The J&D video now has a mention of the discrepancy in the text that follows the video.
Ahh at first I though you said you made a Youtube video!
Looks like they may even have it wrong on their website. The one on the right looks to be closer to the outside.
Pump.jpg
 
If you look at the yoke on the left that she is holding what are the tabs for on the bottom? The original ones do not have those and in the J&D video it says to make sure those are down when installed.
 
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