3010 Hydraulic Pump

Bob Foos

Member
Does anyone have any tips on removing the hydraulic pump. I believe it is in the front of the tractor under the fuel tank. Can I remove it without taking the front wheel assembly off?
 
on a 3010 it"s easier to drop them out the bottom, unloosen the frame at the engine block, after you remove the 2 lines on each side and the one on top,and of course the drive shaft, pry it off the dowel pins and lower out the bottom, a 2X4 and a helper on the other end works out good, if it"s a wide front end you need to remove it.
 
1. Tractor bogs down - seems like hydraulics are loading up.
2. The front loader won't stop - up or down - when lever is released.
3. When I raise the three-point, the loader goes up.
4. Three-point wont stay in position.
5. Lose power steering.
6. Power brakes lock.
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:02 08/24/12) 1. Tractor bogs down - seems like hydraulics are loading up.
2. The front loader won't stop - up or down - when lever is released.
3. When I raise the three-point, the loader goes up.
4. Three-point wont stay in position.
5. Lose power steering.
6. Power brakes lock.

R&R of hyd pump will not correct all of the above problems. Tractor bogging down could be caused by a faulty stroke control valve which might be corrected without removing pump. Loader not stopping is a control valve problem no matter if it's controlled by scv's or ind valve.(I'm guessing scv controlled loader)
3pt not staying in position is either an internal hyd leak or L/D control mechanism is in need of adjustment.
Brakes locking is probably brake valve problems.

I'd suggest correcting these problems before wasting time R&R pump.
 
Now we know some info and point the proper direction.
Is the loader supplied from an SCV with a bungie cord holding the lever on the dash. And a separate joystick/two lever control operating the boom and bucket?
Are the hydraulic problems new or old problems getting worse?
It's possible that either the closed center plug on a convertible loader control valve has blown open. Or some tinkerer used an open center valve instead of of the proper closed center valve.
The most trouble free and convenient loader connection. Is a T in the main high pressure line prior to the scc valves . To a dedicated loader joystick. Then return the loader oil to either a ported filter cover. Or on Waterloo tractors there is a handy line that can be T''d into. Line runs from the scc return down to the trans case , close to the filter.
When was the last time the tractor and loader hydraulics were flushed and filled with Hy-Gard?
 
Those fixes sound better than removing the main pump. I'll start researching on the first one - the engine bogging down. Any help would be appreciated.
Problem here is no reliable tractor repair. The nearest John Deere dealer is about 30 miles away in Iowa.
 
(quoted from post at 08:57:09 08/24/12) Or on Waterloo tractors there is a handy line that can be T''d into. Line runs from the scc return down to the trans case , close to the filter.

b&d
The line to TEE(parts key #5) into is actually referred to as the rockshaft return line in the parts catalog. This is the heading of the PC page [ROCKSHAFT OIL LINES (ROW-CROP AND STANDARD)]

10246.jpg
 
Forgot to mention if there is a relief valve built in the loader control valves. The pressure should be set to 2400-2500psi .To prevent constant oil circulation and heating.
There is a little bitty filter/screen in the front pump inlet.
If the front pump is lugging the engine when no hydraulic loads require oil. There is cause for concern.
 
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