47Ford 8n starter switch wiring

[Turkey 54]

I disconnected the ceramic fuse and had bypassed it. I didn't pay attention how the wires were originally going to my toggle switch. I need to know how to hook all the wires back up so I can just turn on my toggle switch. Press the starter push button switch and get fire. I had it turning over but no fire. Now I got all the wires disconnected. There are 2 red and 2 yellow coming out of the main harness with another smaller red wire taped to the harness. They had the two yells connected together with a smaller yellow coming off that connection that I think went to one side of that fuse that's burnt. Can't I just bypass the fuse? And where do the other wires need to go?

 

[Turkey 54]

I take it the red wires go 1 to each side of the switch. But what about the yellow wire and the smaller red wire? I found a break in the wire on the smaller solenoid terminal. I fixed the wire. If I jump across with a wire from the ground side to the smaller terminal it turns over but still not getting fire. And nothing out of the push button switch.

 

[Jim.ME]

I believe the "ceramic fuse" you unhooked is a PTC resistor (the two freshly open stud terminals in the upper right area of your picture). Positive Temperature Coefficient" thermistors are resistors with a positive temperature coefficient, which means that the resistance increases with increasing temperature. That resistor that is supposed to be in the circuit going to the coil, or you risk damage to coil and points. The ignition (power) wire from the switch should go to one terminal of the resistor and the wire going to the coil connects to the second resistor terminal.

If your starter button is as designed for the original neutral start safety, it provides a ground, not "fire" (power) to make the solenoid relay work

As for the locations where the wire colors and sizes go. One can guess where what color and size belongs, but the guess may not be right and could cause damage, not just something not working. The first thing you need to do is figure out both ends of each wire. Knowing where the unseen end of each wire goes will reveal where the wire ends in your picture belong.

 

[deanostoybox]

Best place for your question:

Ford 9N, 2N & 8N

This group focuses on the Ford N-Series tractors which includes the 9N, 2N & 8N.

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

Looks like you need:

Ford 8N Resistor Assembly - A8NN12250A

Ford 8N Resistor Assembly for sale, A8NN12250A. For tractor models 8N to serial number 263844. Resistor measures .6 ohms +\- .1 for sale. Item 111999

www.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[Turkey 54]

I believe the "ceramic fuse" you unhooked is a PTC resistor (the two freshly open stud terminals in the upper right area of your picture). Positive Temperature Coefficient" thermistors are resistors with a positive temperature coefficient, which means that the resistance increases with increasing temperature. That resistor that is supposed to be in the circuit going to the coil, or you risk damage to coil and points. The ignition (power) wire from the switch should go to one terminal of the resistor and the wire going to the coil connects to the second resistor terminal.

If your starter button is as designed for the original neutral start safety, it provides a ground, not "fire" (power) to make the solenoid relay work

As for the locations where the wire colors and sizes go. One can guess where what color and size belongs, but the guess may not be right and could cause damage, not just something not working. The first thing you need to do is figure out both ends of each wire. Knowing where the unseen end of each wire goes will reveal where the wire ends in your picture belong.

Thank you Jim, I probably burned the points hopefully not the coil but Ill be sure to replace the resister shown and figure where to hook up the yellow wire. I noticed no matter where I try and hook it up it gets hot fast.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you Jim, I probably burned the points hopefully not the coil but Ill be sure to replace the resister shown and figure where to hook up the yellow wire. I noticed no matter where I try and hook it up it gets hot fast.

Sounds like you need to find the other end of that yellow wire, to see what it goes to, before trying to hook it up.

 

[Turkey 54]

Sounds like you need to find the other end of that yellow wire, to see what it goes to, before trying to hook it up.

The yellow wire goes to the hot side of the solenoid. It was hooked up to one side of that resistor . Not sure which.

 

[Turkey 54]

And Everything was firing fine until I apparently snagged a limb and broke the wire at the starter button. And bypassed that resistor.

Sounds like you need to find the other end of that yellow wire, to see what it goes to, before trying to hook it up.

 

[Turkey 54]

And Everything was firing fine until I apparently snagged a limb and broke the wire at the starter button. And bypassed that resistor.

Do you think when I broke the wire at the starter button it was possibly arching and caused that resistor to get hot and burn out? Then once I bypassed it to jump start it I burned the points? It looks like the previous owner tapped into that yellow wire hence the nut. From there to one side of the resistor. Does it matter which side of the resistor? And does it matter which side of the resistor the wire to the starter button goes or was it just hooked to a ground?

 

[Turkey 54]

Th

And Everything was firing fine until I apparently snagged a limb and broke the wire at the starter button. And bypassed that resistor.

The last time I pushed the starter button it turned over but when I released the button it kept turning over. Then I touched the yellow wire to the starter button wire and it killed it but now nothing happens when you push the starter button.

 

[wore out]

Th

The last time I pushed the starter button it turned over but when I released the button it kept turning over. Then I touched the yellow wire to the starter button wire and it killed it but now nothing happens when you push the starter button.

Does it still have the OEM tranny-top neutral safety starter button (with one wire attached) or a "custom" pushbutton switch with two or more wires attached?

Photo of said switch?

 

[used red MN]

The yellow wire goes to the hot side of the solenoid. It was hooked up to one side of that resistor . Not sure which.

This was not a correct way to wire the tractor, the power for the ignition circuit coming out of the ignition switch is the only thing that goes through that resistor. What you have failed to divulge, but to anyone with some tractor wiring savvy can see is that your tractor has been converted to a 12 volt system(i.e. 12 volt batt./toggle switch). When you ask what wire goes where we have no idea because your wiring is not stock and it certainly has not been rewired to a standard configuration during the 6 to 12 volt conversion. What wore out has inquired in reply 11 is a worthy subject. I think we need to go deeper though. A few photos of the whole system would be a good start, switches, solenoid and starter connections, generator/alternator and connections and lastly is it a front mount or side mount distributor?
Wiring diagrams
The linked page has what I would call “standardized” wiring diagrams for a 6 to 12 volt conversion utilizing a Delco 10si 3 wire alternator.
2nd diagram from the top is for a front mount distributor and the 3rd one is for a side mount distributor.

 

[JMOR]

I say that you are SOL trying to count on colors, as if it were factory, the wires on ammeter would be yellow, not black. Like the man said, find where the other ends go.

 

[Jim.ME]

The yellow wire goes to the hot side of the solenoid. It was hooked up to one side of that resistor . Not sure which.

Colors mean very,very little. There are THREE yellow wires in your picture. You need to know where the other end of each and every one of the three yellow wires are, not just the loose wire. As has been posted all the info it needed such as 6- or 12-volt, original starter switch wiring, Generator or alternator, etc., we can't see it. Draw a sketch showing the wires and where they go. Yes, you will likely have to cut all the taped together wires apart to do that. Then take a picture of the sketch and post that.

 

[Turkey 54]

Does it still have the OEM tranny-top neutral safety starter button (with one wire attached) or a "custom" pushbutton switch with two or more wires attached?

Photo of said switch?

One wire original

 

[Turkey 54]

One main Yellow wire goes to the hot side og the solenoid. One wire comes from push button switch, Then I have two incoming red wires to deal with both also inside the harness. One is slightly larger than the other gauge wise. One Black wire Still connected to Ammeter, looks more brown connected to other side of ammeter. I dont need to mess with them. They also had a toggle switch where the key switch originally was. Two wire toggle switch.( both green wures).The bigger red wire looks like it goes to the smaller middle solenoid connection. Or it goes to the top of my coil. There are 3 wires completely cut in that harness by that red wire at the the coil. (red, black and white). Theres a smaller red wire goes to the alternator and a black one. ( red isnt connected and alternator isnt working, probably why).
I need to figure which side of the resistor that yellow wire goes to ( solenoid wire) , where to hook the two red wires one from little connector on solenoid, and one from the coil. And where to hook the wire from tbe push button switch . And the two wires from the toggle switchAll total two red, one yellow , two green.

 

[Turkey 54]

The 6 volt hook up was bypassed. It was running on 12 volts.

 

[Turkey 54]

 

[Turkey 54]

I took the skin off the harness. Im dealing with only 1 yellow wire that goes to the hot side of the solenoid. 1 red wire to the small end of the solenoid and 1 red wire to the coul on top the points and 1 red wire to the alternator ( not connected). Thats all Im dealing with in the harness.
Then I have my push button 1 wire switch wire & my two green toggle switch wires.
( 12 Volt system). They had cut everything loose from that 6 volt system on the frame by steering column. Hope tbis helps.

 

[Turkey 54]

I took the skin off the harness. Im dealing with only 1 yellow wire that goes to the hot side of the solenoid. 1 red wire to the small end of the solenoid and 1 red wire to the coil on top the points and 1 red wire to the alternator ( not connected). Thats all Im dealing with in the harness.
Then I have my push button 1 wire switch wire & my two green toggle switch wires.
( 12 Volt system). They had cut everything loose from that 6 volt system on the frame by steering column. Hope tbis helps.